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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000386676 


Goldfish Varieties 
and ‘Tropical 
Aquarium Fishes 


A Complete Guide 


to Aquaria and 
Related Subjects 


BY 


WILLIAM T. INNES 


FORMER PRESIDENT OF THE AQUARIUM SOCIETY OF PHILADELPHIA 


INNES & SONS 
Publishers 
PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A. 


CopyRIGHTED BY INNES & SONS 
1917 


Rights of Reproduction and Translation 
Reserved 


CONTENTS 


PaGE 
AUTHOR'S. PREFACE ccqar ices dead a te ee oa aes 4 
CHAPTER ONE: The Freshwater Aquarium ................ 5 
“Two: Goldiish Vatistles sinevvuxeverwanwrecaness 19 
z THREE: Judging Goldfish Competitions ............ 39 
" Four: Propagation of the Goldfish ................ 47 
4 Five: Wholesale Breeding .................04.. 61 
- SIx: Some Hardy Native Freshwater Fishes.... 69 
‘ SEVEN: Alphabetical List of Aquarium Fishes, Their 
Breeding Habits, Care, Etc. .«............ 83 
S EIGHT: Tropical, Aquaria: . cassis gata eae ees 101 
x NINE: Marine Aduania gicccac eti oer ied esac 109 
SS TEN: Terraria and Aqua-Terraria ............... 119 
t ELEVEN: Fishfoods'iyss eaten a aw neces 127 
ie TWELVE: The Microscope in Aquarium Work........ 139 
- THIRTEEN: Diseases and Their Treatment ............. 143 
zB FourtEEN: Enemies of Aquarium Fishes ............. 155 
is FIFTEEN : Plants for the Aquarium and Pond ........ 163 
mn StxTeEN: Photographing Fishes .................... 205 
a SEVENTEEN: Construction of Aquaria, Tanks, Etc. ....... 211 
= EIGHTEEN: Aquarium Appliances .................05. 227 
os NINETEEN: Forty Don'ts ...........0 0s cece eee ees 235 
List of Illustrations and Their Sources ...........-.. 000s ee eee 238 
BibNGsraphy c2.4 cies deca awe aver e es eees ime envered ede ¢ 242 
igs Pyle aes cane ee ee eee 244 


AUTHOR’S PREFACE 


There is perhaps no other means of bringing so complete a bit of 
Nature into our very homes as that afforded by the aquarium. Here we 
have opportunity for the student, the artist, the scientist and for those 
who simply love pets. Modern research, by the discovery of a few simple 
principles, has enabled us to absolutely reproduce the conditions of 
aquatic Nature, so that now we may have, at first hand, an intimate 
knowledge of much of that mysterious life of the water-world. Through 
the glass of the aquarium we have a window where that which we see 
is only limited by our own capacity for observation. 


Although interest in aquaria has undergone a great awakening in the 
past few years, the public in general is still ignorant of the correct prin- 
ciples of aquarium management, and of the wonderful accomplishments 
of the breeders of fancy fishes. In addition to the extraordinary goldfish 
forms there are now available for our purposes over 300 other kinds of 
aquarium fishes. These, with other aquatic animals and a wide range of 
plants give us a great wealth of material from which to choose. 


It is the aim of the author and the publishers to present in simple yet 
comprehensive form a practical digest of all available information on the 
subject. This, it is hoped, will be of real value to the intelligent aquarist 
and at the same time give the general public a clearer idea of possibilities 
under proper management, so that an aquarium will no longer be merely 
something which must be perpetually re-stocked with fishes, but an endless 
source of pleasant and profitable observation. 


The illustrations used are, in nearly all cases, either drawn or photo- 
graphed from life, thus establishing records which should be of value for 
present or future reference. 


In the preparation of this volume the author has received valued 
assistance from leading specialists, breeders and general experts including 
the distinguished head of the United States Bureau of Fisheries, Dr. 
Hugh M. Smith. Special acknowledgment for generous co-operation is 
tendered Dr. E. Bade, Mr. Franklin Barrett, Dr. Herman Burgin, Mr. 
Wm. H. De Nyse, Mr. Richard Dorn, Mr. Henry W. Fowler, Mr. Joseph 
Froelich, Mr. Frank J. Myers, Mr. Wm. L. Paullin, Mr. W. A. Poyser, 
Mr. Fred. Schaefer, Dr. C. H. Townsend and Mr. Charles E. Visel. Mr. 
W. L. Brind should receive credit for his assistance in the preparation 
of the list of Exotic Fishes, his knowledge and specialized technique 
as a translator proving of particular value. 


Chapter One 


The Freshwater Aquarium 


6 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


AQUARIUM MANAGEMENT 


The principles involved in successful aquarium management are 
really simple, and if applied success is bound to follow. The common 
goldfish is a very hardy pet, and with proper handling should live from 
ten to twenty years. Yet we hear of numerous failures, and there are 
many who would like to keep an aquarium but refrain from doing so 
because of two erroneous ideas: first, that goldfish are delicate; second, 
that an aquarium requires frequent cleaning. The main causes for 
failure, in the order of their importance, are: 

Overcrowding 

Overfeeding 

Sudden temperature changes 
Lack of proper plant life 
Insufficient lighting, 


Overcrowding. A great many unscrupulous and_ short-sighted 
dealers, in order to increase sales, recommend the use of more fish than 
should properly be put into an aquarium of given size. The beginner 
also wishes to have as many fishes as possible, so that this is one of the 
greatest difficulties to overcome. The proper rule is this: ONE INCH 
OF FISH TO ONE GALLON OF WATER. That is, in a ten-gallon aquarium 
of the usual oblong shape, well planted and in a good light, one could 
‘successfully keep ten one-inch fish, or five two-inch or two five-inch fish. 
Successful aquarists adhere to this rule, and for some of the fancy and 
more delicate varieties, even more water per fish is allowed. The beginner 
will do well to do likewise and disregard all advice to the contrary. If 
already stocked with too many fish, some of them should be disposed of 
or a larger aquarium secured. Should the fish get into poor condition 
from overcrowding it will be difficult to save any of them. 


Gasping. When the fishes persist in coming to the top and gasping 
air, it is usually a sign that they are overcrowded or that the water has 
become bad from some kind of decomposition. The trouble should be 
quickly found and remedied before the fish become seriously affected or 
perhaps suffocate. A partial change of water or the removal of some of 
the fish will usually improve matters. Sometimes the condition is pro- 
duced by a dead snail or mussel, or again from the decomposition of 
uneaten food. 


Overfeeding. Many people kill their fish by kindness. Whenever 
the fish seem hungry they are fed. This is a very great mistake. In 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES ‘i 


Nature the food is scarce and difficult to get. Therefore the fish have 
to exercise themselves in procuring it. In the small confines and artificial 
conditions of the household aquarium, less food can be properly digested, 
for fishes, like men, suffer from indigestion, but with quicker and more 
fatal results. Fish should never, on any account be fed more than will 
be consumed at once. (This does not apply in raising young fish.) If 
any food is left after five minutes, they have been overfed and the surplus 
should be removed with a dip-tube. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appli- 
ances.) In summer or at any time when the water is at 60 degrees or 
higher, it is allowable to feed daily. Should the water range from 55 
degrees to 60 degrees, every other day is sufficient, and when it is from 
40 degrees to 55 degrees, feedings separated by about three to six days, 
will keep them in good condition. An exact scale is difficult to establish, 
partly because fish, under one year of age, can assimilate more food than 
old ones, and partly because the temperature in an aquarium varies at 
different hours in the day. The foregoing scale will give a very good 
working basis, to be followed with a certain amount of personal judg- 
ment. Let it be said there is practically no danger of starving a fish, the 
errors being almost altogether on the other side. A correspondent once 
wrote the author that she kept a fish for seventeen years, and in that 
time had fed it on rice wafers once a week only. The matter of feeding 
fish is a difficult point to correctly impress on the mind of the general 
public. When the fish swim coaxingly to the near side of the aquarium 
it is a great temptation to feed them whether it is their meal time or not, 
but those who love their pets will do them a far greater kindness by 
depriving them until the usual feeding hour. 


Changing the Water. If for any reason it becomes necessary to 
change the water, there is one very important thing to keep in mind— 
do not subject the fishes to any sudden change of temperature, either 
higher or lower. This is one of the most frequent causes of sickness and 
eventual death. 

With the foregoing conditions carefully observed and carried out 
there should be no need to change water except at rare intervals, when the 
aquarium gets dingy looking or overcrowded with plants. Experienced 
aquarists replant about once a year, occasionally adding water to make 
up for evaporation. 

The fish are stimulated and probably benefited by changing a small 
part of the water every few days. From one-fifth to one-tenth of the 
total volume should be sufficient. If the aquarium is in proper condition 
and not overcrowded, even this slight changing of water is not necessary. 
However, it can do no harm and may do good. 

In ‘rases of overcrowding, a partial change of water should be made 


8 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


daily, the amount depending on the degree of overcrowding. Here, again, 
a little personal judgment should come into play. 

A sprinkling pot is excellent for adding water to the aquarium. The 
small streams oxygenate the water well and do not disturb the contents 
of the aquarium. 

If running water is used, a very tiny stream will be sufficient. Fish 
used to running water when placed in still water should at first be given 
ample room. 


Plant Life. Fish live by absorbing oxygen, and they give off carbon 
dioxide as the waste product of their chemical life. Plants, under the 
influence of light, do the exact opposite, so that what is poison to one is 
life to the other. This explains why healthy plants are so desirable, and 
accounts for the phrase “balanced aquarium,” because there is a self- 
maintaining interchange established. 

Still water takes up a certain amount of oxygen from the air. The 
fishes, however, consume more oxygen than can be supplied in this 
manner, and if oxygen-liberating plants are not used the fishes become 
restless, come to the surface to breathe the air, and may finally die of 
suffocation unless the water is changed. 

The term “balanced aquarium” is not accurately descriptive, as an 
exact balance is never maintained. In practise we always endeavor to 
have the oxygenating element the more active, since any excess of oxygen 
goes off harmlessly into the air, while an excess of the poisonous carbon 
dioxide cannot be quickly taken up by the plant life. A more correct 
term might be “reciprocating aquarium.” 


Aquarium Plants. Different plants have varying powers of pro- 
ducing oxygen. It is therefore well to bear this in mind when making a 
selection for planting. Purely ornamental plants are desirable only after 
a fully sufficient quantity of the oxygen-producers have been provided. 
In the order of their oxygenating powers we would name, Anacharis, 
Vallisneria, ‘Sagittaria, Nitella, Bacopia, Fontinalis, Potamogeton, 
Ludwigia and others, which will be more fully described later. 


Light. As just stated, plants require light in order to do their work. 
Select for the aquarium a place close to a window with a good, strong 
light, preferably one where it will get about two hours of direct sun a 
day. In hot weather one should be careful not to overheat a small aqua- 
rium in the sun. A range of between 50 and 75 degrees F. is safe. 

Green water is caused by the presence of a microscopic form of vege- 
table life suspended in the water. Their growth is usually promoted by 
a combination of too much direct sunlight and a large number of fish in 
the aquarium. There are several ways of clearing the water. First change 
it, add a few fresh-water mussels, cut down the light by use of tisst.e paper 


* 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 9 


or other means, take some fish out of the aquarium. To clear the water 
chemically, add one grain by weight of permanganate of potash (dis- 
solved) to each gallon of aquarium water. This will turn the water first 
a lavender, and then a brownish color for a few days, after which it will 
clear up. Unless the original conditions are changed, however, the water 
will soon again become green. Before using this chemical remove all 
snails and mussels. Goldfish can withstand the strength of the solution 
recommended, and probably be benefitted if suffering from any form of 
fungus. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Other fishes do not stand this 
chemical so well. Green water, while unsightly, is not unwholesome. 
On the contrary, a sick fish is often cured by being transferred to a tank 
of green water. Live daphnia will clear water in a few days. ; 
How to Know When the Fishes are Sick. The first signal of 
distress in most fish is the drooping of the dorsal (back) fin. This fin 
should be carried stiff and upright. When the fish is sick its movements 
are sluggish and it often seeks a quiet corner in which to hide. In some 
of the fancy varieties the dorsal fin is so overdeveloped that the fish even 
in health has not sufficient strength to hold it erect. When such fish are 
ill their fins become more or less stiff, losing flexibility. Fins should be 
clear and clean-cut. When they become thick-looking, opaque, lined with 
red veins, overcast with red, blooshot at base of fins, or ragged and split, 
the fish is in need of attention. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Another 
sign of poor condition is thinness of the body. The excrement of fishes 
in health is usually of a dark color. When it is pale, dotted with gas 
bubbles, and of slimy appearance, the fish is apt to be out of condition. 


Sick Fishes. It is always safer to remove an affected fish from its 
fellows. If the trouble is a contagious one, the aquarium or tank should 
be thoroughly disinfected, not overlooking the plants in this matter. For 
all practical purposes they can be sterilized by placing for one hour in a 
permanganate of potassium solution, 3 grains by weight to the gallon of 
water. Satisfactory results will also be given by dipping plants for a few 
moments in concentrated lime water. Either of these methods should be 
applied to all new plants introduced into the aquarium, especially those 
collected from the wild, or from aquaria of doubtful condition. In case 
of an aquarium becoming contaminated it can be disinfected by dissolving 
in it permanganate of potash to the strength already indicated, allowing 
it to stand from two to three hours, first removing all mussels, snails and 
fishes. In changing back to clear water again it wiJl do no harm if a 
little of the permanganate solution remains. 

Unless newly acquired fishes come from a source beyond suspicion 
it is a grave risk to introduce them at once into an established aquarium 
of healthy fish. They should first be quarantined and carefully observed 


10 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


for about two weeks, this being particularly true of imported goldfishes. 
They may already be inoculated with diseases only in process of incu- 
bation, but which will nevertheless develop. 


Chemical Depletion of Water. Constant absorption of minerals 
from the water by plants and fishes makes a condition which should be 
provided for. This can be done by the occasional addition of salts. Make 
a mixture of three parts of evaporated sea salt (Turk’s Island Salt), and 
one part Epsom salts. About once in two or three weeks a level teaspoon- 
full to 20 gallons of water will prove beneficial. Usually the fishes will 
greedily swallow these salts as they sink to the bottom, which acts as a 
mild cathartic with them. ; 

The decomposition of plants, etc., sets up an acid condition in the 
aquarium, which is not good for the fish and which causes most of the 
crumbling noticed on the shells of snails. Ten drops of lime water to the 
gallon of aquarium water will neutralize any ordinary acid condition, but 
a better method is to keep a small piece of Plaster of Paris in the aquarium. 
In dissolving, it neutralizes the acid, but as it only dissolves under acid 
conditions, there is no danger of getting the water too alkaline. If the 
Plaster of Paris dissolves quickly it is a sign of pronounced acid condi- 
tion. We would call two weeks a short time in which to dissolve a piece 
half the size of a shellbark in a 20-gallon aquarium. Pieces of gypsum 
will perform the same function, but more slowly. 

Pieces of coral, sea-shells, etc., look out of place in a fresh-water 
aquarium, and many of them are sufficiently rough to injure the fishes if 
they chance to be knocked against them. 


A Word to Beginners. It is much the better plan to start with a few 
fishes of the hardier varieties until the rudiments of aquarium keeping are 
well understood. If one can keep common goldfishes in perfect health 
and experience practically no losses, then it is time to branch out into the 
more varied and interesting breeds. Some beginners, having more enthu- 
siasm than experience, lose valuable fishes at the start and turn away in 
disgust from a fancy that, if properly understood, would have afforded 
them many hours of pleasant recreation. 


Aeration. In Nature there is always 
sufficient plants or air surface to keep the fish 
well supplied with oxygen, but in the aqua- 
rium, particularly on dark days when the 
plants give off little oxygen, it is impossible 
to keep the fish from coming to the surface 
without the help of some artificial means. 
This is best accomplished by means of com- 
Fic. 1. Air Pump pressed air liberated at the bottom of the 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 11 


aquarium. As the air passes through the water there is sufficient oxygen 
absorbed to keep the fish always in good condition. This is also very 
helpful to the fish at night. 


There are many varieties of pumps that can be used for this purpose, 
but the cheapest and most satisfactory are those which are operated by 
water power. The type known as “beer pumps” are the best. These oper- 
ate on a very simple principle, having a minimum of working parts and 
therefore little to get out or order. Air is forced out of an air-chamber 
by the entrance of water. When the air is all expelled, an internal float 
stops the supply of water and starts a siphon working which empties the 
pump preparatory to the next filling. As this operation takes about a 
minute it is advisable to have a small storage tank for the air to pass 
through in order to equalize the flow. A very small stream of air run- 
ning through the aquarium will keep the water sweet even though the 
aquarium is somewhat overcrowded. Overcrowding, however, is not to 
be encouraged at any time. 


The air should be liberated in as small bubbles as possible. Libera- 
tors are made especially for this purpose, but a good home-made plan is to 
place a piece of bass wood or other open grained wood in the end of a 
tube to force the air through it. In case the liberator becomes clogged up, 
allow it to dry out for a day or two. 

An air pump may also be used to operate a filter for the aquarium 
or to make a fountain without the use of water other than that already 
in the aquarium. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appliances.) 


Scavengers. Nature has supplied us with means of getting rid of 
most of the harmful offal and decomposition in the aquarium. These con- 


Toa) 
30 


Fic. 2. African Fic. 3. Japanese Fic. 4. Red Ramshorn 
Tue THREE Best FRESHWATER AQUARIUM SNAILS (Life size) 


sist largely of those species of snails that do not attack the plants. Among 
the best known, most satisfactory and easily obtained are the large Japan- 
ese snails (Viviparous malleatus), the so-called African paper shelled 


12 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


snail (Lymnaea auricularia) and the red variety of the European Rams- 
horn Snail (Planorbis corneous). These are all active in eating vegetable 
growth from the glass or particles of food which the fish have not taken, 
and in no case will they injure any of the aquarium plants. The Japanese 
snails are very interesting in that they bring forth fully developed young 
about the size of a pea. These snails are male and female, but a female 
once impregnated seems, like a queen bee, to remain fertile for the 
remainder of her life. The right horn of the male is somewhat the longer, 
this serving a sexual purpose. These snails are quite long-lived and grow 
to the size of a large walnut. Another snail resembling the Japanese 
species is the Potomac snail. This has two brown stripes on a horn- 
colored background running with the spiral. It is quite attractive and is 
frequently sold as the Japanese snail, but it is sluggish and should not be 
crossed with the Japanese. The latter can be identified by the slightly 
raised keels showing on the last spiral. The paper shelled snail is very 
prettily marked with brown spots on a horn-colored background, and is 
an extremely rapid breeder, but is of short life. The young hatching 
from the spawn of these snails make a food regarded by the fish as a 
delicacy, as is evidenced by the fact that none of these snails ever get 
beyond the early stages of development if kept among the fish. It is 
therefore apparent that to breed these snails successfully they need to 
be kept by themselves until the young are about half grown. With the 
Japanese snails no such precaution is necessary, as the young are fur- 
nished with a fairly hard ‘shell at the time they emerge. 

The European Red or Coral Snail (Planorbis corneous) is a recent 
introduction and is unique on account of the bright red coral color of 
the body. When seen in the sunlight this snail is quite an added attrac- 
tion to the appearance to an artistic aquarium, and is an active worker. 
The snail is easily bred if the young are kept away from fish. In breed- 
ing snails in small aquara or receptacles it is desirable to give them some 
extra food. Rice wafers, powdered fish food of almost any variety, let- 
tuce leaves dried and powdered, boiled catmeal or raw cream of wheat 
will serve the purpose. Eggs are deposited on plants and glass, and do 
best at from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. , 

To those interested in identifying species of native snails we would 
recommend a very excellent work published by the State Department of 
Public Education at Albany, N. Y., entitled “A Monograph on the Snails 
of New York State,” by H. A. Pilsbry. The book is profusely illustrated 
in color and to all practical purposes covers the species east of the 
Rockies. 

The frog tadpole has been used by many as an aquarium scavenger, 
but its value is of considerable doubt. They dash about the aquarium 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 13 


in an aimless manner, keeping the water stirred up and the natural sedi- 
ment agitated. Furthermore, they soon learn to eat fish food and, after 
that step in education, they refuse to consume the less desirable particles 
found in an aquarium occupied by fish. 

Another scavenger is the fresh water mussel. The chief value of the 
mussel is to keep down the vegetable growth which causes aquarium water 
to turn green. Mussels are equipped with a sort of siphon arrangement, 


Fic. 5. FRESHWATER MussEL, SHOWING Water INTAKE AND OuTLeT; ALso “Foot” 
Wits Wuicu Tuey Burrow AND TRAVEL 


by which they suck in water in one opening and eject it from another. 
In the few moments which they hold the water they extract from it the 
floating vegetable organisms. Two or three mussels should keep a ten- 
gallon aquarium free of green water. Care should be taken to occas- 
ionally see whether the mussels are living, as they decompose very rapidly 
and spoil the aquarium water. This can be done by tapping lightly on the 
shell and seeing whether they respond by closing. 

A curious but useful scavenger is an eel-like fish called the Weather- 
fish. Varieties are native to Europe and Asia. They are freely imported 


Fic. 6. THe WEATHERFISH (Cobitis fossilis) 


and inexpensive. When not scouring the aquarium bottom for bits of 
decomposing matter, they sometimes burrow into the sand, leaving only 
the head exposed, producing a quaint appearance. In their special occu- 
pation as scavengers they employ a method which is both effectual and 
interesting. The dirt and top sand are taken in the mouth and rapidly 
shot out through the gills. Any particle of food considered edible is 
automatically separated from the bulk of the dirt and swallowed. 


14 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Another scavenger fish is the Sacchobranchus fossilis. This fish has 
a head like a catfish and an elongated body like an eel. Both of these 
scavengers are harmless to other fish, but should not be used when over 
five inches long as they stir up the water too much. 


Goldfish keep the sand loose and in good condition by picking it 
up in their mouths, but most other aquarium fishes do not touch it, which 
allows it to cake and become permanently dirty. The Weather-fish is 
most excellent to introduce with such fishes, even a single small one 
keeping the sand in a large aquarium loose on the top. 


Aquarium Covers. It is a popular idea that a free access of air to 
the aquarium is essential to the welfare of the fishes, but this is not so, 
particularly if there is a liberal plant growth. A glass cover, raised about 
a quarter inch, promotes a more luxuriant growth of plants, keeps the 
surface of the water free of dust or bubbles, prevents objects from acci- 
dentally falling in the aquarium, keeps the fishes from leaping out and our 
friend the cat from fishing in. Wire gauze, properly secured, will serve 
the latter purposes. 


With tropical fishes the glass cover should rest directly on the aqua- 
rium or jar, with no intervening space. This keeps the water a few 
degrees warmer. Furthermore, there are a number of tropical fishes 
which can leap through a very small opening. This they are most apt 
to do when newly placed in an aquarium or otherwise disturbed. Our 
wild native fishes have an increased tendency to leap as the breeding sea- 
son approaches, this characteristic being shared in by the single-tail gold- 
fish. 


PLANTING 


Planting is usually done directly in the sand or grit. Some aquarists 
prefer planting in miniature pots so that when it is desired to clean the 
aquarium it will not be necessary to uproot the plants. In potting plants 
in this manner a few pebbles should be placed in the bottom of the pot 
and then a layer of soil, preferably from the bottom of a pond. Spread 
the roots well into the soil and then cover with about one-half inch of 
sand, so that the earth cannot become free and cloud the aquarium water. 
As a rule, it is not advisable to use any soil in planting the aquarium 
itself. 

The first operation in planting an aquarium is to see that the sand 
or grit is thoroughly clean. This can only be brought about by a long 
and thorough washing. After the water runs clear from the sand, spread 
the bottom of the aquarium to a depth of, say, half an inch. Next fill 
with about two inches of water. Now take the roots of Sagittaria, 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 15 


Vallisneria, or other rooted plants, and spread them out well. (See 
chapter on Plants.) After the proper arrangement of plants is made, 
add from an inch to two inches of sand and pebbles, being careful not to 
completely cover any of the leaves. Now fill the aquarium and with a 
slender stick lift up any leaves which have been held down by the sand. 
After the leaves have been brought into an upright position, take hold 
of them and pull upwards until the crown of the plant comes just to the 
surface of the sand. Aquatic plants with crowns seem to do better if 
the crown is not quite covered. The crown is the point from which the 
leaves put out. 


Care should be taken in planting not to allow the leaves to become 
even partially dry. This can be accomplished by frequent sprinkling, 
and the work should be completed as rapidly as possible. 


Bunches of Cabomba, Anacharis and other plants, can be added last. 
These need to be weighted down with bits of lead or tin wire. In filling 
the aquarium it is a good plan to place a piece of paper in the center of 
the aquarium and let the water strike on this. By this method the plants 
will not be seriously disturbed. The use of a watering pot for filling will 
also prevent any serious disturbance of the planting. The aquarium 
should be allowed to stand at least a day before the fish are introduced; 
but a week would be better, so that the plants may become active in time 
to be of real use to the fish. 


The use of pebbles only in the bottom of an aquarium is not to be 
recommended, because particles of food may fall between the stones 
where neither the fish nor snails can reach them, and the decomposition 
thus set up is liable to foul the water. 


Testing Aquaria. Before putting plants or sand in the aquarium 
it is well to test its tightness. More often than not the larger sizes leak 
after removing or standing dry. These leaks can usually be corrected in 
a few days by filling with very muddy water, stirring it occasionally. 


Fish Globes. Ignorance is responsible for most barbarity, and one 
of the commonest forms of both is the keeping of fishes in globes. The 
globe is in every way opposed to the correct principles of aquarium- 
keeping. When it is filled, the air surface of the water is extremely small 
in proportion to the bulk of water. The convex form acts as a lens to 
perpetually focus light into the eyes of the fish. Even the side light of a 
straight-side aquarium is known to be less desirable than top-lighting in an 
opaque tank. What then must be the effect of a focused side-light? A 
proper plant growth in a small globe is almost impossible. All of these 
evils are multiplied by the apparently universal over-crowding in these 


16 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


little prisons, and by the frequent pollutions of the water by overfeeding. 
As these globes are the cheapest form of aquarium, it seems as though 
they are destined to remain with us, but the public could be educated in 
the rudiments of handling them—not to overcrowd nor overfeed, nor fill 
to the top, nor stand in the summer sun; and to establish growing plants. 
If this point can be reached it is a step to the abandonment of the “‘globe”’ 
for a real aquarium, where the chances of success are so much greater. 


Removing Dust and Scum. When the aquarium has no cover glass 
or when there is a considerable decomposition of old plants there is 
sometimes a scum formed on top of the water. To remove this tear a 
piece of newspaper to the width of the aquarium. Float the paper at one 
end of tank, lifting by one edge and draw quickly over the length of the 
water. Repeat once or twice with fresh paper. 


Algz and Conferve. Should the plants become completely covered 
with alge or “moss” try introducing a considerable number of small snails. 
The large Japanese variety are not always suitable for this, as they are 
unable to crawl on the smaller leaves. If this fails, remove and destroy 
the plants, thoroughly disinfect the aquarium in every particular and 
replant. Do not allow quite so much light in the future. 

There is a very long, hard conferve about the thickness of horse- 
hair which grows into matted masses. This is quite a pest when once 
established, as it soon fills the aquarium and enmeshes young fish which 
usually die before being rescued. The only way to get rid of this is to 
take up all plants, go over each carefully and see that no single thread of 
the conferve is left. If the smallest bit remains the growth will soon be 
as bad as ever. 


Fic. 7. PrizEwINNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE GOLDFISH 


(Reduced one-quarter) 


This fish won the Diploma of Honor in 1907 as the best fish (any 
class) owned. Although no special attention was paid to “broadtails” at 
this time, there were quite a number of them, this being a good specimen. 


Fic. & PrRIZEWINNING VEILTAIL Moor (Reduced one-third) 


This is considered to be one of the finest black goldfishes ever bred. The short, 
deep body, the sail-like dorsal fin, the large, clear eyes, the broad flowing tails, the 
velvety black color combined with good lines and style make this remarkable fish a 
pattern which we might hope to equal but hardly to surpass. 


Chapter Two 


Goldfish Varieties 


20 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE GOLDFISH 


There are two root-stocks from which the goldfishes of to-day have 
originated. Both are members of the carp family. The European gold- 
fish, Carassius carassius, has never been developed into any of the fancy 
forms except by crossing with cultivated types of the Asiatic stock, Ca- 
rassius auratus. The Orientals, principally those of Korea, China and 
Japan must be given credit for first establishing, by selective breeding, 
the goldfish as an ornamental pet as well as for the incredible lengths to 
which they have gone in fixing fancy breeds. Of this more will be said 
later. 


Fic. 9. THe Common GotpFisH (Carassius auratus) 


Although a common American goldfish has been described by at 
least one writer, no such division properly exists. Those sometimes 
found in American waters are invariably from escaped or liberated stock 
from one of the two varieties mentioned, or from their hybrids. 

The normal color of fishes of both root-stocks is of a silver-gray or 
olivate hue, but with a strong natural tendency towards albinism, which 
produces occasional specimens of a yellow or golden color. By selective 
breeding the colors have become fairly well fixed, although in the scaled 
varieties the color is still at first carp-like, turning to gold, white or black, 
as a rule, in from three to eight months. Instances are quite common 
where they live to an old age without ever turning, so strong is the ten- 
dency among goldfish to revert to the ancestral stock. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 21 


The common Goldfish being closely related to the original stock has 
most of its characteristics. It is very hardy, can withstand extremes of 
temperatures if brought about gradually, can remain out of water for 
several hours when kept moist, is easily tamed and is a prolific breeder. 
The body is rather long and flattened on the sides. The head is short, 
wide, and without scales. Names of the different fins should here be 
carefully noted, as they are frequently referred to in other parts of this 
work. The Dorsal Fin (on back), the Caudal Fin (the tail) and the 
Anal Fin (small fin nearest tail) are all single in the Common Goldfish. 
The Pectoral Fins (nearest head) and Ventral Fins (nearer lower centre 
of body) are paired. 

Under pond culture they will, in several years, reach a length of 16 
inches and live for eighteen years or more. 


Cotors 1n GotprisHes. In color the fish varies from a smoky drab 
or olive to metallic red, yellow, white or partially black. Indeed a com- 
bination of all these colors is not infrequent, once the first carp-color 
is gone. The more prized colors in common goldfishes are deep red 
(called “gold”), white (called “pearl”) and a combination of the two. 

The smoke-colored fishes are known as silverfishes, their color and 
metallic lustre somewhat resembling tarnished silver. Breeders call them 
“uncolored,” because they have not yet turned to one of the more de- 
sirable colors. Goldfishes of the metallic or “scaled” type are liable to 
change color at any time, the least liable to turn being the white or pearl 
fishes. After the first change from “silver,” the rule is to progress to- 
wards a lighter color. That is, from black to red or from red to white. 
Exceptions are very rare. It will also be found that the lighter colors 
are the more persistent in breeding, and as these are considered the least 
desirable, it is well to avoid light-colored fishes when it comes time to 
select breeding stock. Even when darker-colored breeders are used, the 
fancier is frequently disappointed by having a large proportion of the 
young develop light colors. 

Black is a color which for some unknown reason is confined almost 
exclusively to the telescope goldfish. In breeding telescopes it not infre- 
quently happens that the abnormal eye development never takes place. 
These fishes may develop any or all of the color peculiarities of their 
parent-stock except that of being black. In the breeding of fancy gold- 
fishes any freak combination of characteristics seems liable to occur, but 
the writer has never seen a good black fish without telescope eyes, 
although he is told by a reliable authority that there was one a number 
of years ago. 

We have referred to “scaled” goldfishes. There is another division 
not known to the general public but which plays a highly important part 


22 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


in the goldfish fancy. This is the ‘‘scaleless” variety. These fishes are 
really not without scales, but the scales are of such transparent character 
that they are scarcely observable to the eye. However, they usually show 
with moderate distinctness in a clear photograph. Scaleless fishes do 
not have the metallic sheen of the ordinary goldfish. The colors are more 
refined and present a far greater range of variety. The most important 
difference is the presence of blue and lavender tints among scaleless 
fishes. Among the scaled fishes these are not found. A further account 
of these colors will be found in the description of the Calico Telescope 
on page 31 and in the chapter on judging Goldfish Competitions, page 43. 


Another important peculiarity of the scaleless type is that they never 
go through the period of being silverfish, but at the age of about six weeks 
commence to develop their permanent colors. Their first color is white, 
sprinkled with small, black specks. A good idea of the final color may 
be had in ten weeks, although as elsewhere remarked, the very finest of 
the calico colors are not fully apparent under two or three years. Scale- 
less fishes have a charm of refinement distinctly their own and make most 
interesting inmates of the aquarium. So transparently scaled are some 
specimens that at the breeding season it is often possible to tell females 
by seeing the eggs through the translucent walls of the belly. The main 
objection to the scaleless goldfish is that the ribs or rays of the fins are 
rather weak. Soon after the fins have attained a high degree of develop- 
ment the fish is no longer able to hold them in a position where they will 
show to advantage. In the majority of instances the dorsal and caudal 
fins (hereafter in this work popularly referred to as “‘tails”) commence 
to droop and sag in from two to three years, while the scaled fish often 
maintains an admirable stiffness of fins for a long life. This we would 
call ten years in a highly-bred fish. Questions are frequently asked 
regarding the length of life of fancy goldfishes, but these are always 
difficult to answer satisfactorily. A large proportion die under the age 
of 6 weeks. Of the remainder there are quite a few which do not develop 
rapidly, always remaining the “runts” of the batch. A few of these drop 
off from time to time during the winter, but in the early spring months 
they, and all other weak fishes, go rapidly, so that very few of the under- 
sized fishes are left by the first of May. Those passing this period are 
generally good until the next spring, when the death toll is rather heavy 
again, but a fair number pass it successfully and they are likely to live 
several years more to an age of from four to six years. Anywhere from 
six to twelve years can be considered a long life for a fancy goldfish, 
although well authenticated instances exceeding this are known. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 23 


Earty Variations. In breeding single-tail fishes together in which 
there is no known double-tail stock, one will sometimes find a fish with 
the lower lobe of the tail double, making it a reasonable supposition that 
this was the first “break” in form away from the common stock. This 
is called a “tripod tail.” The next higher development is the “web-tail” 
in which both tails are fully formed but joined at the top edge instead of 
being completely divided. From these early “breaks” have been developed 
the fully divided tails, double anal fins et cetera. 


By careful selective breeding, types have become fairly well fixed, 
but the goldfish has a strong tendency to revert far back to ancestral 
types, in form as well as color, often to the annoyance of the breeder. 
One of the most interesting things about a spawning of goldfishes is the 
tremendous variety in the young. In a lot of a thousand young scaleless 
fishes there may not be two alike, and none may resemble either parent. 
That this, however, is not always so is a self-evident fact, else selective 
breeding would be without results. 

The accomplishments of Oriental breeders seems only to be limited 
by the scope of the imagination. Through the most patient efforts, not 
only of a lifetime, but of several generations of a family, such changes 
have been wrought in form and color that some of the breeds do not 
seem to even distantly resemble the common goldfish. That this is so is 
often evidenced by the fact that strangers to the fancy on first seeing a 
collection of highly developed fishes want to know what they are. An 
amusing incident illustrating this point occured in the preparation of the 
present volume. The engraver who made the plate for the goldfish 
design on the outside cover billed the publishers with “One Cut of But- 
terfly”! Those outside the fancy sometimes seriously refer to the fins of 
fancy specimens as “wings.” Among fanciers a high dorsal fin is often 
referred to as the “sail.” 

When it is borne in mind what a considerable period of time must 
have been necessary to bring about these strange breeds, it is not surpris- 
ing that racial ideas and characteristics should, to a certain degree, be ex- 
pressed in them. The Telescope Goldfish was originated in China and 
undoubtedly bears a resemblance to Chinese art. It has a sort of beau- 
tiful ugliness, a deliberate grotesqueness, intended first to shock and then 
excite curiosity. The wonderful range of colors, too, suggests the art 
of the Chinese—that race which continues to-day to lead the world in 
the clever use of color. The Japanese Fringetail Goldfish is another 
expression of national art. It is the very embodiment of that aesthetic 
elegance and grace so well understood by the Japanese people. America 
has not been without its logical contribution. Here in this vast melting 
pot it is our desire to bring forth combinations of the best from the old 


24 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


worlds, to which is added a touch of individuality of our own. Although 
we have made several other combinations in crosses, the most important 
is the beautiful Scaleless Fringetail. European aquarists have not as a 
rule developed fancy goldfish breeding to the point it has been carried 
in America. Their interests, particularly among the Germans, are cen- 
tered in tropical fishes, in which specialty they easily lead the world. 
In the Veiltail Telescope, the most important breed in this country, 
American breeders have virtually created a new class, although none of 
the separate points are of our own development. We have combined the 
short body and long fins of the Japanese Fringetail with the Chinese 
eyes, and colors. The broad, square tails seem to come from the Chinese 
side, but so far as we know they did not especially breed for this point 
nor for length in connection with it. 

It is believed that the first cultivated goldfishes came from Korea, 
that country from which even ancient China borrowed ideas, education 
and arts, but so little is known of this that we have to take our facts as 
we now find them. That there have been and are breeds of goldfishes 
in both China and Japan which have never been sent out is well attested 
by travelers to-day and by a book published in Paris in 1780, by de Sau- 
vigny. This remarkably illustrated work shows many of the varieties in 
color. The only known copy in the United States is in the Academy of 
Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, where it will be shown those interested. 

The easiest characteristic to fix in a breed is the lengthening of the 
body and fins. This brings us to a description of the first of the fancy 
goldfish varieties or breeds. 


THE COMET GOLDFISH 


The Comet has been referred to as the Japanese Comet because it 
is probably a “sport” from Japanese stock. Japanese experts have as- 
sured us the breed is not recognized in their country and certainly no 
considerable numbers of them have ever been imported from there. The 
first of the long single-tail breed appears to have been originated in the 
ponds of the Fish Commission in Washington in the early eighties. Mr. 
Hugo Mullertt either secured some of this stock or later originated a 
strain of his own. At any rate, he was the first to place them on the 
market in quantity. The Comet is long of body and fins, the tail in par- 
ticular being very free-flowing. In movement this fish is the most grace- 
ful of all the fancy goldfishes and it can swim with great rapidity when 
necessary. This activity has made it easy for the fish to revert to its 
ancestral tendency to leap out of the water. Aquaria containing Comets 
should be covered by a screen, particularly in spring. The Comet makes 
the most beautiful and generally satisfactory pond goldfish where a dec- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 25 


orative effect is desired. They are perfectly hardy over winter in a deep 
pool or where they may burrow in leaves or soft mud. The type breeds 
quite true to form and many thousands of them are raised annually for 


SS“ 


sere 
eete: 


S 


Tat 


Ses 


: Dmctas 


Fic. 10. THE ScaLtep Comet 
the trade. A few years ago there was a wonderful strain of scaleless 
comets of deep, oxblood red color. Unfortunately this was lost and 
present-day breeders with scaleless stock that could be so crossed as to 
produce scaleless comets find it more profitable to utilize their spare time 
and energy in propagating other breeds. 


Fig. 11. THe SHUBUNKIN 


26 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE SHUBUNKIN 


One of the more recent introductions is the Shubunkin. This is 
simply a transparently scaled, highly mottled, common goldfish. All 
breeders of fancy stock occasionally get fish which are known as “sports” 
which have reverted back in form, but not in color to the original type. 
The Japanese have now fixed them as a breed, and export a fair number 
of them. They are of the most striking variation in color, and make a 
hardy, attractive aquarium or pond fish. The colors most sought after 
are blue backgrounds, sprinkled and mottled with dark red, brown, yellow 
and black. 

The Japanese stock has quite short fins, but those bred in America 
are a little more developed in this respect, the illustration showing the 
American style. 


THE FANTAIL GOLDFISH 


This is no doubt the early type of double-tailed goldfishes and is the 
kind most frequently met with in pet shops. Enormous quantities of them 
are annually raised in Japan, China, United States and Germany. Being 
long of body, with fins not highly developed they make good breeders and 


Fic. 12. THe Fantarr 


agile swimmers. This means that in the contest for life they are able in 
most cases to hold their own with the hardy single-tailed variety. Since 
the price for “fantails” is considerably in advance of that for ‘“‘commons,” 
it would seem a better commercial venture to invest a little more money 
at the start for “fantail”? breeding stock. However, none should go into 
the raising of fish of any kind as a commercial enterprise without first 
obtaining actual experience in a smaller way. 

The anal fins, as well as the tails, should be double and clearly 
divided. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 27 


THE JAPANESE FRINGETAIL GOLDFISH 


In point of pure elegance there is no breed of goldfish equal to the 
Japanese Fringetail. Our illustration is taken from a sketch of the fish, 
made by its owner, Mr. Franklin Barrett. A few words regarding this, 


meee 
peer 
EE 


ree 


Ese 
te 


LL 
Za 


Ze 


Ne 
HS 
ite 


Fic. 13. Tue JAPANESE FrincetaiL (Veiltail or Broadtail style) 


the best-known individual fish that has ever been owned in this country, 
might be of interest. The Japanese Imperial Government sent a collection 
of its best goldfishes to the World’s Fair at Chicago in 1893. Only a few 
of them survived the journey and still fewer lived through the Exposi- 
tion. These had fallen into a diseased condition and were given to Mr. 
William P. Seal. He cured them and later sold this one, now known 
as “The World’s Fair Fish,” to Mr. Barrett, for a comparatively small 
consideration. At that time the fish had not developed the wonderful 
qualities which have made it famous. It was one of those cases where 
“blood will tell.” 


28 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Regarding this fish as a type of perfection that could not be improved 
upon, the Aquarium Society of Philadelphia had a drawing of it made 
from Mr. Barrett’s sketch and used as a society emblem. ‘The society 
later had the fish struck on its medal. It lived to an age of about fifteen 
years, and was the father of many fine specimens. 

The characteristic points of the Japanese Fringetail are brought out 
in the illustration. The body is short, rounded and chunky, with short 
head and flat eyes. The lower fins are long, pendant and delicately lace- 
like, and are all paired. The dorsal fin is as high as the body is deep. 
It should be carried erect, producing the effect of a sail as the fish moves 
majestically through the water. As in most other varieties, the deeper 
colors, both in scaled and scaleless specimens, are the more highly prized. 
Scaleless fringetails, an American production obtained by crossing Japa- 
nese Fringetails with Chinese Scaleless Telescopes, are exceedingly re- 
fined in appearance. 

The illustration shows the tubercles on the gill plate and pectoral 
fins, indicative of the male sex. 


THE JAPANESE NYMPH GOLDFISH 


The Nymph is virtually a single-tail Fringetail. The anal fin and 
tail are single. The latter, instead of drooping, should be carried out 


Fic. 14. THe Nympu 


straight, and well spread. This fish is usually a “sport” from fringetail 
stock. Although seldom deliberately bred, fine specimens are very attrac- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 29 


tive in an aquarium and are often retained by fanciers. In their active 
movements as well as in points of conformation they make a pleasing 
contrast with the double-tailed varieties. One of the principal features 
is the dorsal fin, which should be large and carried quite erect, as de- 
scribed for the Fringetail. The body requirements are also the same. 


CHINESE TELESCOPE GOLDFISHES 
This most curious fish is either of Chinese or Korean origin, but was 
undoubtedly brought to its highest stage of development in China. The 
name correctly implies its chief peculiarity—projecting eyes. These make 


ig) 


A 
\) 


Fic, 15. Earty STYLE CHINESE TELESCOPE 


NS 
\ 


a very weird appearance, and almost without exception produce a shock- 
ing impression on being seen for the first time. So perverted or educated 
do our tastes later become that we find our admiration increasing in pro- 
portion to the degree of malformation attained in the fish. Telescope eyes 
vary in shape and in direction. The majority of them are spherical or 
conical. Tubular eyes are rare and highly prized, but any form is con- 
sidered good so long as they are large and stand out far from the head. 
Most telescope eyes point in the same direction as normal eyes, but some 
point forward. This is unusual. The Celestial Telescope has still more 
peculiar eye formation. This is described under its own heading. 

One point in common between all telescope goldfishes is that in the 
early weeks of life the eyes appear entirely normal. Until they actually 


30 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


start to “develop eyes” at anywhere from two months to even two years, 
it is impossible to tell whether or not they will become telescopes. The 
usual development period, however, is from three to five months. Should 
they pass ten months without turning, they may be safely called Japanese 
fringetails. Many such fishes that have come from telescope stock are 
used to breed to telescopes to produce telescopic young. This is usually 
successful in the first generation, but it has a tendency to spoil the breed 
by gradually reducing the size of the eyes. Telescope fishes of the present 
time are, for the most part, considerably inferior in point of eyes com- 
pared with the stock of fifteen years ago, due mainly to breeding too. ex- 
clusively for short bodies and long fins. Type characteristics in any kind 
of breeding can, like liberty, only be maintained at the price of eternal 
vigilance. 


Fic. 16. CHINESE SCALELESS TELEScorE (Dorsal view) 


THE CHINESE SCALELESS TELESCOPE GOLDFISH 


As before stated, “scaleless” is somewhat of a misnomer, the fish 
being transparently scaled, making the scales difficult to detect. We use 
the word “scaleless” in its accepted popular sense. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 31 


_ Fishes of this general division are divided into two color classes— 
plain scaleless and calico. The plain scaleless is red, white or a combina- 
tion of the two. Red in scaleless fishes is quite different from that in 
scaled varieties, being more of an ox-blood color, producing a highly 
refined appearance. In scaleless fishes the bodies do not have a metallic 
lustre. The colors seem as though they had been laid on by the delicate 
hand of a water-color artist. These fishes have white fins. During the 
first few months the roots of the tails are usually dark, but this gradually 
disappears. 


The Calico Telescope is the consideration of first importance, not only 
in this group, but among all fancy goldfishes in America. Its name is 
suggestive of its coloring, but the colors are by no means in geometrical 
arrangement, as they are in the fabric. Red, yellow, brown, gray, black, 
blue and lavender are laid in fantastic blotches and spots over the body, 
usually on a lighter background. Many small dots of black are sprinkled 
over the body and fins. In extra fine specimens red dots will also appear 
in the fins. The color chiefly sought is blue, and the more blue, the more 
valued the fish. Probably every American breeder of scaleless telescopes 
kas an ambition to breed a solid blue fish with high-class body and fins. 
A few solid blues have been produced, but the other required points were 
woefully lacking. Calico Telescopes of the higher order seldom find their 
way into the pet shop, the price effectively keeping them out. This is 
true of most of the finer fishes. Public taste in these matters is not suffi- 
ciently educated to warrant dealers in taking the risk of carrying the more 
highly developed, and therefore more delicate, specimens in stock. It 
must be noted, however, that the past few years has witnessed a gratifying 
development of general interest in the better aquaria and fancy fishes of 
all kinds. 


THE SCALELESS VEILTAIL TELESCOPE 


While it is true that some of the early Chinese scaleless importations 
had broad tails and medium length bodies, it is highly probable that none 
of them equaled in short bodies and long fins the present American stand- 
ard type. We crossed Japanese Fringetails with scaleless Chinese Tele- 
scopes, thereby producing two new varieties which have become permanent 
—Scaleless Japanese Fringetails and Scaleless Veiltail Telescopes. Both 
have been bred for broad-tail qualities (veiltail), and may be considered 
an American variation. The characteristic points of the Scaleless Veil- 
tail Telescopes are the same as those for the body and fin formation of the 
Japanese Fringetail and the eyes and coloring of the Chinese Telescope. 
The coloring almost always tried for is calico, but if a fish fails in this and 


32 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Fic. 17. Perrect CALIco VEILTAIL TELESCOPE 


still retains the other characteristics of the breed, it is considered a good 
fish. A perfect calico veiltail telescope is the acme of perfection which 
most American breeders have in mind as their highest goal. 


THE CHINESE CELESTIAL TELESCOPE GOLDFISH 


For a long time an erroneous belief existed that the peculiar eyes of 
the celestial goldfish are produced by placing the young in jars which 
were lighted only from a small slit in the top. Although this variety is 
difficult to breed, it has been done several times in the United States. No 
peculiar contrivances of any kind were used. At the usual period of 
about ten weeks they developed ordinary telescope eyes in the regular way. 
Later they gradually turned towards the top of the head as shown in 
Figs. 18 and 39. 

If any such peculiarity had been produced by mechanical means, it 
would not be reproduced in the offspring. By some Orientals the Celes- 
tial Goldfish is considered sacred on account of its constant heavenward 
gaze, and is accorded a place in their temples. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 33 


Fic. 18. THe CHINESE CELESTIAL 


The Celestial Telescope is the most difficult of the imported gold- 
fishes to rear or to keep alive in the aquarium. 


THE JAPANESE BARNACLED GOLDFISH 


Barnacled goldfishes are so rare that the majority of leading fan- 
ciers have never seen them. They were first imported from Japan in 
1897, soon disappearing from view. Although no new stock is known to 
have been imported, the peculiar characteristic has recently made its 
appearance again. Whether these fishes are inheriting from the original 
imported stock, of whether they represent an independent “break,” such 
as the Japanese breeders utilized in starting the breed, it is impossible even 
to surmise. The scales are raised sharply in the center, presenting regular 
lines of dots along the sides of the fish. These should not be confounded 
with fishes suffering from dropsy. In the latter case the scales stand from 
the body at the outer edge. Otherwise the fish has the characteristics of 
the telescope fish. 


34 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE CHINESE MOOR TELESCOPE GOLDFISH 


The Moor is a most striking breed of the goldfish, its intense, velvety 
black color forming a rich contrast for the more gaily colored specimens 
in the aquarium. The intense blackness extends to every part of the fish 
except the under side of the belly. This shades off to a blue-gray or a 
slight golden tint. In the latter case the fish is likely to eventually turn 


Fic. 19. Younc CHINESE Moor (Veiltail) 


gold. This is not certain, nor is the blue-gray a guarantee against turn- 
ing, although it is less likely to do so. Breeders have not found that the 
greatest percentage of blacks is produced by using two blacks, but by 
crossing a deep red scaled fish with a black. A good Moor with the body 
and fin development of the Fringetail, is a very choice fish, and is always 
in demand. The accompanying illustration, made from a very fine year- 
ling fish, does not give a full idea of the intense black color of the original. 
Some of this had to be sacrificed in order that the drawing might show all 
details of the fish. Our photographic illustration of a veiltail Moor, on 
page 18, will give a better idea of the color. 


THE JAPANESE LION-HEADED GOLDFISH 


In point of grotesqueness and the amazing accomplishments of 
breeding fancy goldfish, probably nothing surpasses the so-called Lion- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 35 


head. It is often remarked that the name is not particularly appropriate, 
but seems to have become established. ‘Buffalo-head” would be a much 
more descriptive and appropriate name. There are three strong char- 
acteristics to this fish. The first is a thick growth over the gill plates and 
head somewhat resembling a large raspberry. The second is the entire 
absence of dorsal fin, and the third is the extremely thick, short body. 
The growth on the head seldom commences before the age of six months 


ee 
orn 


z 


oS 
as 


mes 


ae. 


se 


SD 
SS 


fs 
es 


aS 
SS 
= 


Fic, 20. Tue LIONHEAD, OR BUFFALOHEAD 


and sometimes never appears. It is well developed in two years and 
increases in size as long as the fish lives. After the head growth has 
become quite thick it is advisable to keep the fish in running or other well 
oxygenated water. The mechanical difficulty of breathing is considerable 
and unless there is plenty of oxygen the fish is liable to suddenly expire 
when in apparently good condition. The tails and anals should be double, 
but defects in these points are not considered serious if head and body are 
good. The colors are the usual pearl and red of the common goldfish. A 
few transparently scaled specimens have been produced by crossing with 
transparently scaled fish of other breeds. One or two Lionheads in a 
mixed aquarium add considerably to the variety. It was believed by some 
that the absence of dorsal fin was the result of its being extracted by 
Japanese breeders while the fish was young. This has been proven a gross 
error for the same reasons stated in paragraph on Celestial Telescopes. 


36 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE ORANDA 


In the opinion of the writer an Oranda was originally a Lionhead 
with a dorsal fin—in other words, a Lionhead which did not come true 


Fic. 21. THe OrANDA 


to form. However, it is recognized as a variety and is accorded a place 
in goldfish shows. The fins and body are usually longer than in the 
Lionhead. 


THE CHINESE TUMBLER GOLDFISH 


Among other breeds of Chinese goldfish never popularly known in 
America is the Tumbler. The peculiarity of this fish is that of somer- 
sault gyrations comparable to those of tumbler pigeons, caused by the 
spine curving backwards. A fish performing in this manner is occasion- 
ally seen in a hatching of any short-bodied stock, and is usually killed 
to relieve it of the misery of existence. We cannot imagine that a breed 
of this sort would ever become popular in this country, for it would be 
too suggestive of troubles we already have in fishes caused by internal 
derangements, chiefly of the swimming bladder. 


In addition to the few specimens seen in this country, a similar fish 
is described by de Sauvigny. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 37 


THE CHINESE EGGFISH 


A few of these fishes were imported some years ago, but have never 
become generally known. So far as America is concerned the breed is 
temporarily lost. This fish, as its name correctly implies, has a rounded 


Fic. 22. THe CHINESE EccrisH 


white body resembling an egg. The absence of dorsal and anal fins 
enhances this effect very much. The tails are bifurcated and decidedly 
drooping. This fish would form an almost dazzling contrast with a Veil- 
tail Moor Telescope. The breed is recognized in Europe. 


CHINESE LETTERED GOLDFISHES 


It has been claimed that in some instances the Orientals have suc- 
ceeded in breeding fishes marked with Chinese letter characters on the 
sides. In strongly mottled stock such a design might accidentally appear, 
but from our knowledge of goldfish breeding traits we do not believe any 
definite color pattern could be deliberately produced. It is much more 
probable that the fishes have been cleverly stained by the use of oxalate 
of iron or dilute hydrochloric acid. 


38 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE METEOR, OR TAILLESS GOLDFISH 


In breeding for long-tailed fishes a strange perversion sometimes 
occurs in the form of a tailless fish, the other fins being well developed. 
The anal is single. Some of these have recently been bred together, and 


Fic. 23. THE METEOR 


by a few generations of selective breeding the type has become quite 
well fixed. At first regarded as a mere freak, the Meteor has been 
accorded a place in a number of competitive exhibitions. A specimen 
such as illustrated can swim better than would be imagined, and makes 
quite a streaming effect passing through the water. 


Chapter Three 


Judging Goldfish 


Competitions 


40 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


JUDGING GOLDFISH COMPETITIONS 


Among aquarium socieites there is a certain demand for competitive 
exhibitions of goldfish varieties. The difficulties of making satisfactory 
awards are considerable, due in part to varying ideas as to what consti- 
tutes standards of perfection. To reduce this difficulty to a minimum the 
Aquarium Society of Philadelphia instituted a series of conferences of 
leading fanciers in order to establish a satisfactory and uniform scale of 
standards. The diagrams shown herewith represent a composite of the 
best ideas obtainable. The majority of leading societies have adopted 
them as a whole. 


The “point system” of judging, as it is called, is too slow and labor- 
ious for use on an entire large exhibition. The two or three best fish, 
selected on general appearances should be set aside from the others and 
judged independently by three judges, on points. The totals are then 
averaged and awards made. 

In those classes requiring double anal fins the fish is penalized three 
points for having only one. 

In the fringetail classes the tails must be fully divided to receive con- 
sideration. 


The longtail or fringetail group is divided into two classes, the 
veiltail and the ribbontail. These are sometimes called “broad-tail” and 
“swallow-tail” or ‘‘cut-out-tail.” In the veiltail the centre of each tail is 
indented or forked less than one-third of its total length. The swallow- 
tail is cut in to one-third or more. The diagram on page 43 will plainly 
show this. 


The making of these classes has caused some confusion. The author 
believes that fishes of these two types and those on the difficult dividing 
line should all take their chances together. The division was undoubtedly 
made as an expediency in order to make more awards and thereby please 
as many people as possible. So far as can be determined, no such divi- 
sions of fin shape have ever been recognized in China or Japan, and the 
same was true here until the period of 1910-12, when it became a con- 
spicuous fact that nearly all winners of competitions were of the broad- 
tail type. Those not possessing stock of this style became dissatisfied, 
and in order to appease them, a class of the old-style fish was definitely 
established. While the veiltail is the more difficult to handle and to 
breed, it is accepted as the standard to be striven for. The word “veil- 
tail’ is adapted from the German Schleierschwanz, and is more truly 


[yssoaons ATQEYIVWMAL OTR I1v SII adsvp sasyJO UL suONIGYyXs Iyqu ‘syurod juerysip Wory 
sysvisnyjua LueUr Suipnypour ‘sep das1y} UL pude SIOPSTA pajsaiaqUl QQO'ST Fo spaeady, “saqoyagQ ur Aypenuue ppoy 
Soyshy winiivnby Jo UoOUIQIyNa [eUOEN 9y} 10OJ punosSyoeq [wapr ue ‘uoejasaa [eoidosy JO Surjas Jusaywusvut 
SH YPM SSULIO] UONIQIXY Peruuayuay ay} wory ssurppmq Juoueutssd OM] ay} Jo auo “YEE PesnyNVIOPT 


VIHITHOVIH J NOLLIMIANY WoarvaAoy “FZ “Pl 


Fic. 25. Mepat or THE AgtariumM Soctery OF PHILADELPHIA 
(Exact size) 
The first medal offered by an American Aquarium Society. It is awarded 


annually for the best fish owned and the best fish bred by a member: also for dis- 
tinguished achievement or services in the advancement of aquarium study. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 43 


descriptive than “fringetail,’” a word more apt to describe the split and 
ragged ends of the fins of a fish out of condition. 


In competitions goldfish are divided into the scaled and ‘‘scaleless” 
classes, the latter being transparently scaled. The ‘scaled fishes are colored 
gold (metallic red) silver (metallic drab or smoke) pearl (metallic white) 
and moors (blacks). The first should be of a deep shade of red. The 
second is a transitory color and varies but little. As a color value it ranks 
low. The pearl is a grade higher, but light colors in general are not 
favored. Moors should be a deep, purple-black, free from the appearance 
of a-white scum. These blacks are never completely black under the 
belly. It is at this point that they usually begin to turn red, which is 
liable to happen to a moor at any age. 


“Scaleless” fishes are divided into red, white, mottled and calico. 
The preferred shade of red is of the deep, oxblood color. White ranks 
lowest. Mottled is a combination of red and white, while the highest 
prized is the calico, a combination of all the colors in finely divided spots. 
In this class the all-important color is blue or lavender, the deeper the 
better, and also the more the better. The ideal calico has a body back- 
ground of blue, red and white, over which is a sprinkling of fine black 

‘ dots. The black dots and some red ones are also freely distributed over 
all the fins, which are otherwise white in these and all “scaleless” fishes. 
The highest development of this color seldom occurs under the age of 
from two to three years. 


In the opinion of the writer, societies should avoid too frequent 
competitive exhibitions. They promote discord and tend to develop pro- 
fessionalism. Those truly interested in the development of the fancy 
will be willing to bring out their fish without thought of reward other 
than giving pleasure to their friends and the public. 


OFFICIAL CHARTS 


Showing Ideal Figures of the Principal Goldfish Varieties, 
Together with Valuation Points 


Copyrighted by Franklin Barrett 


COLOR - 18 
Style - 5 
COLOR-18 
STYLE: § 


Fic. 26. SwaALLow TAIL CoMET Fic. 27. VEILTAIL COMET 


44 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


GoLOR i COLOR -18 
STYLE S STyce 3 


Fic. 28. SwaLtowTalL NyMPH Fic. 29. VerttarL Ny mMpu 


EYES 18 


COLOR 18 EYES 18 
STYLE 5 ervine S 
Fic. 30. SwattowralL TELEscopr NyMpu Bie. 3. Metra Teiescope Nyvirn 


STYLE § 


Fic. 32. SwattowtaiL JAp. FRINGETAIL Fic. 33. Dorsat View, Swatiow TAIL 
Jar. FRINGETAIL 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 45 


TOP VIEW 
VEIL -TAIL JAP. 


GOLOR 18 
STYLE 5 


Fic. 34. Verttait JAp. FRINGETAIL 


Fic. 35. DorsaL View, VEILTAIL Jap. 
FRINGETAIL 


~~, 


COLOR 18 
STYLE 5 
Fic. 36. SwaALLowTAIL TELESCOPE Fic. 37. VEImTAIL TELESCOPE 


EYES 32 


| 
vi) 
COLOR 18 


STYLE 5 


COLOR (16 
STYLE § 


Fic. 38. Oranpna Fic. 29. CELESTIAL 


46 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Stott 


COLOR 18. 
STYLE 5 


Fic. 40. Dorsat VIEW, CELESTIAL Fic. 41. LionHEap 


TABLE OF POINTS FOR ALL CLASSES 


Double 

Body Tail Dorsal Fins Color Anals Style Eyes 
Telescopes .......... 18 18 14 + 18 5 5 18 100 
Japs src sare 24+ 26 18 4+ 18 5 5 100 
Nymphs 2 sens cotcs A 25 27 20 5 18 5 100 
Comets’ i353 gan dscete ok 20 32 20 5 18 3 100 
Telescope Nymphs ... 19 19 16 5 618 5 18 100 
Celestials ............ 18 18 + 18 5 5 32 100 
Shubunkins .......... 10 10 10 5 660 5 100 

Head 
Lion Heads ......... 18 18 + 18 5 5 32 100 
Orandas: oc0ccde nes 18 18 14 + 18 5 5 18 100 


Chapter Four 


Propagation of the Goldfish 


43 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


SEX IN GOLDFISHES 


The chief indications of a male fish (“buck”) in the breeding sea- 
son—about January till August—are the small tubercles appearing on 
the gill plates. These are a little smaller than pin-heads and the fish 
must be viewed at a certain angle in order to see them. (See illustration 
on page 27 and lower photograph on page 56.) 

The female fish (“roe”) is usually shorter and fuller of body, par- 
ticularly when carrying spawn. The spawn as a rule is more on one 
side of the fish than the other, so that in looking directly down on the 
fishes’ back it may be found to be curved to one side. After spawning 
is over this deformity often remains. In a female which has spawned 
the vent is always a little protuberant. The eggs can often be seen 
through the translucent skin of females of the scaleless type. 

Early in the year the young males will begin swimming after the 
females, following close to the vent. Without observing any of the fore- 
going rules the sex may often be told in this way. 


BREEDING 


The breeding of fancy goldfishes is one of the most fascinating of 
diversions. There are many difficulties to be encountered and even the 
oldest fanciers sometimes have new troubles to face. Goldfish, possibly 
more than any other creatures, draw their characteristics from far- 
removed ancestors. Or again they may become a counterpart of either 
parent. This makes a considerable element of uncertainty, since the 
characteristics of their preceding stock has for the most part contained a 
great deal of variety, due, no doubt, to experimental crosses. This 
produces a most interesting and sometimes annoying variation in a lot 
of young goldfish. As the fish gets beyond the small fry stage the breeder 
becomes intensely absorbed in daily observation of points of form, color 
and size as they appear. 

The percentage of fancy fish coming true to type is usually small. 
Ten per cent. of fish to pass the critical inspection of the fanciers’ eye 
is not considered bad. Besides these about fifty per cent. of the batch 
will come true, but will be qualified by slight defects. The balance may 
be anything at all, single-tail fish from double-tail parents being the 
principal disappointment. These percentages are averaged from general 
breeding, but are liable to wide variation. Sometimes there is no fish in 
a hatching to approach the quality of either parent; sometimes a large 
percentage is better than both parents. If a strain is carefully watched 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 49 


for several generations and no fish varying from the desired type is 
allowed to breed, the percentage of young coming true can be kept 
very high. 

The beginner should get his first experience in breeding the more 
hardy varieties—the comet, for instance—but this stage passed he should 
select none but the best breeding fish out of known good stock. The 
best time to purchase new stock is in September and October, preference 
being given to the larger fish about seven months old. At this period 
the dealer-fancier is usually willing to sell off some of his larger old 
fish. These are more showy than the young, but should not be selected 
as breeders. In fact, none but the expert fancier who knows well what 
he is about should purchase any fish over one year old. 

The fish often show signs of breeding early in the year. As pre- 
viously stated the young males will start “driving” the females. If this 
is observed before March, the sexes should be separated, as early spawns 
are not to be desired, unless one has very special facilities. If the spawn- 
ing can be delayed until May, results will be more satisfactory. The 
reasons for this are that the harmful long cold spells are less likely to 
occur and that living food can be obtained with more certainty. Spawn- 
ing may be delayed by separating the sexes and by keeping the fish in 
cool water. 

As spawning time approaches the fish should be well fed on nourish- 
ing food. Finely chopped earthworms, carefully rinsed, are excellent. 
Live daphnia are even better. When the breeders have been selected 
they should be placed togther by themselves. If possible there should 
be three males to one female. This insures a higher percentage of 
fertilized eggs than if only one male is used. If the definite results of a 
certain cross are wanted then use only one male. A second female 
not spawning should never be present, as she will devour the spawn. 

Papier maché tubs are very nice for spawning in, but seasoned wood 
tubs or tanks will do. The aquarium may be used, or the spawning net 
shown on page 231. 


Should there be no spawn after the fish have been together several 
days, remove about a quarter of the water daily and replace by fresh. 
This is very stimulating. Some intimation of an approaching spawning 
may be had by the fact that the males occasionally “drive” the ripe 
female for several days before the spawning takes place. This usually 
increases in intensity the evening before, and when spawning is in full 
swing it develops into a wild chase punctuated by short periods of rest. 
So vigorous is the swimming at this time that fishes with large fin 
development generally have their fins torn and frayed. Males with 
shorter caudal fins (tails) are the more rapid swimmers and their fins 


50 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


become less torn. As these are usually also the young, vigorous males 
they are to be preferred for breeding purposes. Spawning usually 
starts at daybreak and lasts till middle afternoon. It may be repeated 
every few weeks until the first of August, but the first spawn of the 
season is the largest. 

Goldfish deposit their eggs preferably on floating aquatic plants, and 
these should be freely provided (first making sure they contain no snails 
or other enemies to fish eggs). The best are water hyacinths (with as 
large roots as possible) and bunches of myriophyllum. The female will 
swim over the plants and drop the eggs. As they fall the male passes 
over and fertilizes them by an ejection of spermatic fluid. They are of a 
mucilaginous character and adhere to the plants. The eggs are about 
one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter and are of a pale, amber hue. The 
fish drops from ten to twenty eggs at a time, and after short intermis- 
sions repeats the operation. A complete spawning of a medium sized 
female runs from five hundred to one thousand eggs. Large fish not 
infrequently spawn over three thousand. This refers to the first breed- 
ing of the season. As previously remarked, subsequent spawnings are 
considerably smaller. As the plants become covered with eggs they 
should be removed from time to time, allowing a few minutes for the last 
deposit to become fertilized. These plants should be removed to enamel 
trays about 4 inches deep and ‘12 to 20 inches in diameter, containing 
clean water of the same temperature as breeding tank. If more con- 
venient the fish may be removed after spawning and allow the eggs to 
hatch where they have fallen. One of our leading breeders makes an egg- 
trap composed of a number of bunches of myriophyllum, secured together 
in a radiating circle, like the spokes of a wheel. About 10 bunches are 
used. The tinfoil is removed from each and tied again with thread. The 
same thread is carried half an inch to the next bunch and so on until they 
are all arranged on a string, which is then knotted together in the form of 
a circle. The fishes spawn in this with their heads to the centre, and as 
the eggs are discharged in the direction of the rays of plants, the chances 
of the eggs finding a lodging place in them are very good. Such a circle 
need not be removed until well filled with eggs. Some females eat their 
own spawn, so removal of eggs is safer if hyacinths or small bunches of 
myriophyllum are used. No snails should be present, as they eat the 
eggs. However, after the eggs have hatched the snails should be used to 
eat the infertile ones. These appear on the second day to be milky white 
and later become covered with large balls of fungus. The fertile eggs are 
of a pale amber color and are not easily seen. This fact together with the 
marked prominence of the infertile eggs often gives the beginner the idea 
that the eggs are all bad. He is generally surprised, therefore, to see what 
a large number hatch. 


Fic. 42. TrLescope GoLprisHes SPAWNING 


This unusual photograph shows two females spawning on a ring of Myrio- 
phyllum. The smaller fishes are the males, in vigorous pursuit. Males do not 
average of smaller size than the females, but the younger ones are the more active 
and fertilize a higher percentage of eggs than do their elder brethren, 


Fic. 43. Gotprisu Foss (Slightly magnified ) 


Being of a pale amber color, goldfish eggs are very difficult to photograph as 
they actually appear. The one beneath the arrow gives a more correct idea than 
any of the others, but the general distribution of eggs on Fyacinth roots is shown 
in a characteristic manner. 


Fic. 44. GotprisH AT Two WEEKS 


The abdominal yolk-sacks have been absorbed but the stomachs protrude in a 
way to show that plenty of small living food has been provided. 


Fic. 45. GotprisH AT SIX WEEKS 


At this period they have come to look like fishes. From this point until late 
Fall they eat at least their own bulk daily, and the bodies in fancy stock will con- 
tinue to deepen. 


Fic. 46. Terescope GoLpFisH at TWELVE WEEKS 


They have now attained their body form and started to develop telescope eyes. 
In the scaleless varieties the colors have largely appeared, but among scaled stock 
the young at this period remain “uncolored.” By this time the breeder has usually 
selected the best specimens to hold for the following year. These should he placed 
by themselves in ample room. When the supply of live food is limited, they are 
the ones which are favored. 


Fic. 47. PrizeEwInninG TELESCOPE 


Fic. 48. PrizEwiInNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE 


GotpFisH Over One YEAR Ovp, FULLY DEVELOPED 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 57 


The development of the embryo under the microscope is plainly 
observable and is extremely interesting. The hatching time is from 
three to fourteen days, according to temperature.’ At a temperature 
ranging from 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit they should take from four to 
five days. This is considered to produce stronger fish than a slow hatch- 
ing. The hatching trays and young fish should be kept in a light place 
and, if possible, where they may be protected from a temperature below 
60 degrees. Goldfish at any age should be partially protected from the 
direct glare of the sun, so that they may at will go into the sun or shade. 
A few sticks to form a rough lattice over the tray or tub will do very 
well. In case of rain the sticks, unless already weatherbeaten, should be 
removed, as water from new wood is injurious. If the fish are in a 
position where they get only about two hours of morning sun, no pro- 
tection from light need be considered. Goldfish do’ not prosper in too 
much heat, and temperatures above 85 degrees, even temporarily, are to 
be avoided if possible. Fish under eight weeks old can stand more heat 
than can older fish. 


When the alevin or newly hatched embryo bursts from the egg it is 
a very weak creature. Jt appears a mere thread with a pair of eyes at 
one end and small lump in the centre. This is the umbilical sack and 
serves as subsistence for the first few days. At first the alevin can only 
swim by a few jerky motions, and has the power of sticking wherever it 
touches. At the age of one day they are to be found hanging on the 
plants and the sides of whatever receptacle they are in. In from two to 
three days they are swimming freely. When the umbilical sac has been 
absorbed, which is in about three days, the babies will need some food 
which has been previously prepared. The first natural food is a large 
variety of microscopic animals known under the general heading of 
infusoria. These are present in all exposed water which has stood a few 
days, but in order to have sufficient for fishfood it is necessary to have 
conditions favorable to their culture. This consists mainly of vegetable 
decay. Dried and powdered lettuce leaves or duckweed, sprinkled 
thickly on the water produce good results in a few days, kept in a warm 
place and a subdued light. Also a quantity of hay over which boiling 
water is poured will soon produce the creatures. A low-power micros- 
cope or cheap magnifying glass should be employed in this work. (See 
page 140). After the culture is apparent and the fish are swimming 
freely, occasional dips of culture water should be put in with the young 
fry. Sometimes the infusorians can be found freely in standing pools, 
particularly where the water is not very clean, and where there are no 
daphnia or other crustaceans. One species, Brachionus rubens, some- 
times occurs so thickly that the surface of the water appears to be covered 


GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


or 
D 


by a thin, rusty scum. Small pools about a cattle yard are particularly 
favorable, but, of course, if the water is very dark it should be used 
sparingly. This sort of food should be used for about ten days to two 
weeks. Illustrations Nos. 93 to 96 show types of this living food, but 
one does not need to be very particular as to the exact form. In general 
anything alive that is too small to be well seen by the naked eye, but 
which is visible under a magnifying glass, will answer the purpose. Col- 
lection can be made with nets of fine bolting cloth. If green water can be 
had, some of it should be put in with the young fish. It contains vege- 
table matter of value to very small fry. After the fry have noticeably 
increased in size they should be fed young daphnia which have been 
screened through a fine wire tea strainer. As size increases, feed full 
size daphnia. (See page 130.) 

While the fry are being fed on infusoria, however, no daphnia should 
be introduced. The daphnia, as well as the small fish feed on infusoria 
and are more skilled than goldfish in catching them. Where daphnia 
have been for a few hours, no infusoria can be found, so thoroughly do 
they clear the water of them. In other words daphnia and goldfish up to 
the age of about ten days for the fish are competitors for the same 
living food. 

Contrary to previous theories numbers of our leading breeders now 
use a drip of water in the tanks with young fish over one month old. 
In many cases this plan seems to produce remarkable growth. The use 
of an ordinary drain in this connection is inadvisable, particularly if 
outdoors, as a heavy downpour of rain is liable to carry off the small 
fish. If the tank used has a drain pipe a large wire guard covered with 
cheesecloth will answer the purpose, but the cloth should be renewed 
occasionally, as the water rots the fabric. If fish are in a tub a good 
drain can be made by placing a 2-inch strip of stiff felt around the out- 
side edge. Secure the felt in position by securely wrapping a cord around 
it as close to top of tub as possible, allowing the felt to stand about one 
inch above sides of tub. This will not only secure the young fish, but will 
prevent the loss of any daphnia by overflow. 

Best results are had in raising fish out doors, but one invites catas- 
trophe by placing them out in the first warm spell of Spring unless it is 
possible to again bring them indoors promptly on the arrival of the cold 
spells sure to occur in the Spring of our Eastern climate. 

In instances where it is not possible to secure living food for raising 
young fish they may be started on rice flour, yellow of egg forced through 
bolting cloth or fishfood reduced to a powder and sifted through cheese- 
cloth. As they increase in size an excellent diet is the paste from boiled 
oatmeal after straining through muslin or cheesecloth. Powdered shrimp 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 59 


or codfish as described on page 129 can be added to the oatmeal to 
advantage. 


Whether fed on living or prepared food, young goldfish should be 
fed very liberally. This is essential to securing large strong fish of good 
constitution. They eat almost constantly. It is better to feed several 
times daily than to put in a whole day’s supply at one time. With pre- 
pared food it is liable to foul the water with long standing and too many 
daphnia introduced at one time exhaust the oxygen in the water. This 
lack of oxygen retards growth and may produce suffocation. 


As the fry develop in size the more nearly perfect specimens should 
be ‘selected from the others, given more room and the best of the food. 
It is much better to concentrate on raising a few fine specimens, and to 
succeed in this requires plenty of room for each fish. This point cannot 
be dwelled upon too strongly. Even many expert fanciers fail to get 
the best results on account of trying to raise too many young in a given 
space. At the age of six weeks they should have at least one gallon per 
fish, three gallons at nine weeks and six gallons at twelve weeks and 
over. This rule is for fishes which are growing. Small fry should be 
dipped out with a spoon and never poured. Rough handling kills them 
almost instantly. 


For some unknown reason certain individual fishes grow very much 
more rapidly than others. These larger ones monopolize the food and 
sometimes eat the smaller. They should therefore be sorted according 
to size several times in a season. 


WINTERING GOLDFISHES 


In outdoor ponds where there are plenty of dead leaves and soft 
dirt, the hardier varieties of goldfish will survive the winter. The ice 
should be broken to admit air. This air space also tends to prevent 
deeper freezing. If a few warm spells occur it will do no harm to feed 
the fishes very lightly when the ice entirely melts. This should not be 
done oftener than once a week. 


If one has insufficient aquarium or indoor pool space to keep the 
stock of fine fishes over winter, tubs will be found good, especially those 
of papier maché. Occasional partial changes of water will prove bene- 
ficial, particularly in concrete tanks. 


Winter is the natural resting period of goldfishes and at this time 
they do not require much warmth nor food. Their food at this time, 
however, should receive careful attention. They need a certain amount of 
fresh animal food, and as the usual form (Daphnia) cannot generally be 


60 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


had in winter, substitutes are of value. This is taken up in chapter on 
Fishfoods, page 130. 

Transparently-scaled white or nearly white fishes need more warmth 
than the others, as cold causes them swimming bladder trouble. 


Chapter Five 


Wholesale Breeding 


62 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


WHOLESALE BREEDING 


With the rapidly growing demand for aquarium fishes there is no 
reason why, with the proper facilities, one should not make a comfortable 
living from the breeding of goldfishes and other fancy kinds. Good 
water, plenty of room, moderate taxes, ample shipping facilities and 
thorough experience in fish culture are all prime requisites. Climatic con- 
ditions must be carefully considered. The weather should be settled by 
May 15 and continue moderately warm until early October. Localities 
where the nights are cold or the days excessively hot are not suitable. 
States in the same temperature belt as Maryland and Virginia are particu- 
larly advantageous, although it is by no means to be said that success can- 
not be had elsewhere. Farmers in many localities are turriing otherwise 
unprofitable land both into goldfish and foodfish ponds. In the latter 
branch several of the State Fish Hatcheries are giving encouragement and 
practical help. 

It is not necessary to have an expensive establishment in order to 
succeed, but certain natural advantages, besides those already mentioned, 
are of importance. If one has a good spring, clay-bottom soil and ground 
that lends itself readily to a series of pools that will drain from one to 
another, a start can be made with reasonable chances of success. Our 
figure number 49 will give a good general idea of an inexpensive 
layout. The water runs from springhouse to a tempering pond, where the 
water becomes more heated by the air and sun. It also absorbs oxygen, 
for in this element spring water is apt to be lacking. Where no tempering 
pool is used it is advisable to arrange small waterfalls if there is sufficient 
drop. Even 2 or 3 inches is better than none. From the tempering pond 
the water is run through a series of sluices into the rearing ponds. As the 
fishes develop, some will grow much more rapidly than others. In order 
to prevent them from devouring their smaller fellows, they must con- 
stantly be sorted out, particularly in the first several weeks. These larger 
ones can be placed to advantage in the two long pools shown in illustra- 
tion, using one side for choice grades with good fin development, color, 
etc., and the other for single-tails or fish with blemishes. 

As a final use for the water it can be placed to advantage as shown in 
a large pond for the propagation of daphnia or other live food. The fish 
pools should be drained in the winter in order to expose the bottoms to 
the action of frost, thereby killing lurking insect enemies. We have shown 
an outlet on the daphnia pond, but ordinarily this is not to be emptied. 
By draining it the stock of live food would not be entirely lost, but many 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 63 


daphnia eggs woulc be carried away and consequently it would take longer 
in the spring to dev2lop a stock large enough for practical use. If possi- 
ble it is a good plan to have two or more daphnia ponds, so that one may be 


(EWERMTAEZ/ ATOM A Pe 


ore 
ON te 
Tila) ceaantlltgy 
Nett Angie 
st wl 


Fic. 49. Farm Breepinc Ponps, SHowinc Detait or SLUICE AND GUARD 


replenished while the other is being drawn from. The bottom of daphnia 
pools should be prepared with a substantial layer of dead leaves and 
manure of any kind. Later in the season when this has all disintegrated, 
a new supply should be occasionally added. Any decomposing vegetal 
or animal substances will do. If a prowling cat has met accidental death 
by shooting, its carcass placed in the daphnia pond will give quite an im- 


64 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


petus to the production of live fish food. For aesthetic reasons it would 
be well to weight the carcass down with stones. 


The plan of this system of pools does not call fer running water, but 
only to admit it as needed. It will be seen that an overflow is provided 
to carry off the surplus from the tempering pond, this finally discharging 
into the natural brook from the spring, or into any other place capable of 
carrying it off. 

By this plan of having one pool drain into another, instead of dis- 
charging into a general overflow, we have an added chance of saving 
fishes in case of an overflow or accident to the sluices. 

Unless a spring is known to be thoroughly dependable at all times, 
the possibility of securing water from other sources should be considered 
in the beginning, particularly as most establishments of the kind now 
being described are constructed only on clay bottoms, where a certain 
amount of water is sure to be lost through seepage. 

If the soil has no natural clay bottom, the hole should be dug 6 inches 
lower than the intended depth of pool, say 20 inches in all. Now mix pure 
clay with water in a mixing box and spread on bottom and sides to a 
depth of 6 inches. To secure the sides in this manner they will have to 
slope gradually. It is better to make the sides of cypress boards and 
puddle the clay in back of them. These had best be sloped at a slight 
angle, about 2 inches to a 14-inch board. Even when soil is mostly of 
clay, there is often serious loss of water near the top on account of the 
more porous earth. 

One very important consideration in all outdoor ponds or pools is 
the possibility of serious loss through freshets. Not only does the pool 
itself have a tendency to overflow in a protracted downpour, but drainage 
from higher portions of ground is liable to sweep over low ponds. The 
latter danger can be overcome by having ample trenches dug on the sides 
exposed to such risk, and seeing that they in turn drain off where the 
water will do no harm. In regard to direct overflow it is a good plan to 
have extra screened outlets in each pool at a point a little higher than the 
regular outlet, which is of course also screened according to the sizes of 
fishes contained. Another point is to have a safety factor by not filling to 
within 3 inches of the top. That is to say the regular drain should be 
placed at that level. The importance of the danger of flood ina system of 
this kind cannot be emphasized too strongly, and unless the point is care- 
fully provided for in the beginning, trouble is bound to ensue, and serious 
trouble. 

An advantage of the tempering pool is that fishes can be kept in it 
over Winter. Fishes bring better prices in the latter part of the Winter, 
and one of the serious problems of the wholesaler is how he shall carry a 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 65 


large stock where it will be kept in good condition and will be available. 
If the spring has a good flow, the tempering pool can be kept comparatively 
free of ice and fish can be caught as wanted all Winter. 


With the use of ground-level ponds the snake, frog and rat have 
good chances of enjoying the luxury of feeding upon goldfishes, unless the 
vigilant breeder adopts effective means of keeping these pests under 
control. 


Ass stated in the former chapter, it is advisable to provide shade for 
the fishes. Trees at the right places would be beneficial but this cannot 
often be arranged. Aquatic plants, particularly water-lilies, are to be 
recommended. Plant life in a clay-bottom pool should be strictly limited 
to a few species, as some plants once obtaining a foothold can only be 
eradicated with the greatest difficulty. The plants to be used are Giant 
Anacharis, Myriophyllum, Cabomba, Ludwigia and Water Cress. All of 
these are desirable and furthermore find ready sale. Cyperus such as 
shown in illustration may be kept in pots. 


Specially Equipped Breeding Establishment. A more elaborate 
and considerably more expensive establishment is shown in our figure 50, 
consisting of greenhouse, indoor and outdoor concrete pools and all acces- 
sories going to make up a modern commercial fish-breeding plant. The 
tanks are 26 inches deep on the outside surface and are not sunk into the 
ground. This avoids the expense of so much excavating and makes a 
height which ordinarily cannot be scaled by rats, snakes or frogs. Tanks 
had best be covered by frames of screening, but these will sometimes be 
warped or placed on carelessly, thereby giving these particular enemies an 
opportunity. Let us repeat that galvanized screening should be scrubbed 
with a stiff brush and water before placing over any kind of fish con- 
tainer. The acid-flux used in making galvanized wire is extremely fatal 
to fishes, and unless precaution is taken, the first rain on new screening 
will wash the free acid among the fishes and cause wholesale deaths. 
Uniform size of compartments has several advantages, among which is 
interchangeability of screens or covers. Allowing 6 inches for the thick- 
ness of bottom will leave an inside depth of 20 inches, but under ordinary 
circumstances they should not be filled beyond 14 to 15 inches. With the 
outside tanks this gives a safety margin of several inches before a heavy 
downpour of rain causes the level to rise to the screened safety overflows 
one inch from the top. It also catches practically all of the rainwater of 
the season, which is excellent for the fishes. If the water becomes high it 
can be siphoned off from the bottom until original level is reached. The 
advantage of being able to fill up, if necessary, to 19 or 20 inches in an 
inside tank is that at certain seasons the greenhouse capacity for fishes is 


66 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


taxed to the fullest. At such times the extra volume of water for the 
storage of fish stock will be keenly appreciated. An economy of space can 
be effected by building wooden tanks to stand over the section marked 
“Breeding Ponds” in figure 50, thus making two rows here instead of 
one. The wooden tanks should be somewhat narrower than the lower 
concrete pools. 


L ihe 
Z ue 
12 [ee ToT Te Te Telv Toys ‘ 
y 4 Sa z N 
Sete TSs STeTooks & as|| if 
a 
XH { Ts] eres gsi lig % | 
& ores & Ss 
vin OE EE YS a a eg 
N 
= 
e 6 
(ie i 
> 
- 
N 
& 
g 
) 
8 
9 
N 
REARING PONDS 
FOR LARGE YOUNGSTERS COMETS y 4 
N 
NX 
FANTAILS NYMPHS ETC. 
DRIVE WAY 


Fic. 50. WHOLESALE BREEDING ESTABLISHMENT, SHOWING GREENHOUSE AND 
Outpoor CoNcrETE TANKS 


Goldfishes are hatched in the greenhouse from February until April. 
The young, as stated in the previous chapter, should not be placed out 
until the weather is settled, but there is a magic about outdoors which puts 
growth and vitality into the fish which the cunningest devices of temper- 
ature, plants, food, aeration, etc., cannot successfully imitate in the green- 
house. There has been much speculation as to why fishes do not do as 
well as might be expected in greenhouses. The author suggests that the 
water is too dead, owing to lack of evaporation, the atmosphere being 
already charged with dampness. Evaporation produces cold. The cold, 
oxygenated water drops to the bottom, thereby setting up a beneficial cir- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 67 


culation of re-vitalized water. Also there is more microscopic life falls on 
the water outside than indoors. A partial renewal of water in indoor 
tanks is undoubtedly beneficial and is one means of at least partially secur- 
ing that freshness of water which we have outdoors. Those handling 
fishes in wholesale quantities in greenhouse or other large indoor pools 
usually maintain a small spray of running water. This should in no sense 
be of sufficient quantity to be regarded as running water, but merely 
enough to add a trifle of freshness and oxygen. Stock accustomed to 
actual running water is liable to suffocate when placed in an ordinary 
aquarium. Retail dealers are not always conscientious in this matter. 
In order to carry a large stock in a small space they have to resort to a 
liberal use of running water. They dip fishes directly out of such tanks 
to sell for use in household aquaria, knowing full well that the chances of 
survival are poor. It is by no means impossible, or even difficult, to 
accustom such stock to still water, but the change should be brought about 
slowly. Frequent partial changes of water at first, gradually increasing 
the length of time between them, will accomplish the result. 

Some years ago Mr. Wm. P. Seal devised a fish-breeding house of a 
somewhat different character from the ordinary greenhouse, and the idea 
has been generally accepted as correct in principle. The structure is long 
and narrow, with solid roof. The lighting is from window sashes in the 
sides, these being swung or pivoted so as to admit the air in summer. 
The objections to the ordinary type of greenhouse are, first, too much light 
for fishes and plants, producing an excessive growth of alge (including 
green water) ; second, high cost of heating in cold weather and too much 
heat in the warm season; third, attendant risks due to glass breaking from 
various accidents, including, in some sections, large Summer hailstones. 
Where an all-glass greenhouse is used, different methods are employed to 
cut down the light in Summer. The principal one is to coat glass on the 
outside with a mixture of white lead and gasoline. 

The chief objection to the long-narrow type house with opaque roof 
is that it is not compact and multiplies walking steps. A successful modi- 
fication in nearly square form has been worked out, in which enough 
light is secured in the centre of the building by a series of skylights in the 
roof, comprising about one-quarter of the roof area. 

When the windows or sashes are open they should be fitted with in- 
side screens of 14 inch mesh to keep out insect enemies but admit gnats 
and other forms of insects which, together with their larve, form an 
important item of fishfood. 

The most satisfactory form of heating is with the hot-water system, 
this being much more flexible than steam, and cheaper to operate. Modern 
invention has produced automatic heat-control devices which can be 


68 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


installed at moderate cost. These are extremely vauable in guarding 
against the dangers of sudden cold spells at night, particularly where 
tropical fishes are kept or when young goldfishes have been hatched in 
the late winter or early spring months. Oil stoves are not to be recom- 
mended and should only be used in emergencies. The carbonic product 
of combustion while small in quantity is, nevertheless, injurious. Water 
absorbs most gases very freely. 

The cement floors of fish houses should be provided with gutters next 
to the tanks, these all draining to a single point so that the floors can 
easily be flushed down. 

A description of methods of building concrete ponds and tanks will 
be found on page 220. 

Commercial Breeding of Tropical Fishes. The detailed descriptions 
of breeding habits described on pages 92 to 100 will give a practical 
working basis for anyone wishing to enter this field commercially. There 
are, however, a few generalizations which ought to be of value here. In 
Nature the fishes manage to reproduce themselves without the help of 
man. The three principal reasons are because they have water of the 
proper temperature, food of the right character and plenty of opportunity 
for the young to hide. All of the conditions can be produced artificially. 
The European breeders use tubs, introduce a thick growth of plants, place 
in One or more pairs of breeders as occasion demands, feed plenty of 
daphnia, mosquito larve, etc., and disturb the fishes as little as possible. 
In the absence of greenhouses the tubs are sunk in the ground, covered 
with wire netting in warm weather and with glass on cool nights or days. 
Quite large tanks are sometimes used, placing different species with the 
same breeding habits together, not attempting to sort out the various young 
until fall. In the livebearing groups there is no likelihood of hybridization 
if males and females of the same species are both present. Some fishes do 
not like plants and will tear them out (cichlide group, for instance), but 
as a rule the young very early appreciate their value and quickly hide 
among them. They also hunt sloping, shallow edges where the larger 
fishes cannot follow, particularly if Salvinia or other small floating plants 
are along the edge. 

A continuous, warm temperature is imperative for some species and 
for these it is not worth while attempting to breed outdoors in a temperate 
climate. 

In selecting a stock to breed from for commercial purposes it is 
inadvisable to choose the species which have already become common, even 
though they are easy to breed. It is much better to pay more for some- 
thing out of the ordinary if there seems to be a reasonable chance of 
breeding it. The “fashions” change so rapidly in tropical fishes that we 
could not attempt here to advise what to breed, as our book would be likely 
to look old by the time it is off press. 


Chapter Six 


Some Hardy Native Freshwater 


Aquarium Fishes 


70 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


NATIVE AQUARIUM FISHES 


It seems to be human nature, especially in America, to assume that 
the best things come from distant lands—the more distant, the better. In 
this search for the rare and interesting we are apt to overlook excellent 
material close at hand. There are many handsome native fishes admirably 
adapted to aquarium purposes. They are easily managed, tenacious of 
life, varied in habits and easily tamed. Those who have made collections 
of our own fishes have found much pleasure in this form of the aquarium 
hobby. 


THE RED-BELLIED DACE 


Chrosomus erythrogaster, not exceeding a length of three inches is 
one of the most satisfactory of hardy aquarium inhabitants. During the 
breeding season the belly, mouth and base of the dorsal fin of the males 


Fic. 51. Rep-Bettiep Dace (Life size) 


are bright red. There are two black lateral lines on the sides, separated 
by a band of pale gold, so that even when not in breeding colors, the 
Red-Bellied Dace is an individual of attractive appearance. It is per- 
fectly harmless, will eat any prepared food and is of active habits. 
Native to the small streams of the Middle West. They are believed to 
be community breeders requiring large space. The author placed six of 
them in a 3 x 5 foot tank in May and several months later took out 30 
well developed young, but the breeding was not observed. 


Owing to their extreme agility it is necessary to catch the wild stock 
in a minnow seine, operated by two persons. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 71 


THE ROSY-SIDED DACE 


Leuciscus vandoisulus 


One of the less known, but very attractive aquarium fishes is the 
Rosy-Sided Dace. The general color is silvery to green. A nearly black 
lateral line runs the length of the body, and below this on the males is 
a long patch of red, starting from the edge of the gills, as shown in 
illustration. This varies in intensity from day to day, and is brightest 
from February until September. As these fishes dart about the aquarium 


Fic. 52. Rosy-Sipep Dace (Life size) 


the flame-like appearance of the red patches is most striking. Even when 
not in color there is an interesting bronze-green effect to the scales at 
the lateral line. This is always visible by reflected light, and seems to 
show mostly at night. If the light is turned on them at night they show 
very little red color, but in a few minutes it is quite plain. 


The Rosy-Sided Dace is a large minnow and takes kindly to the 
aquarium and is perfectly harmless, but unless plenty of room is pro- 
vided it will slowly decline. Found in clear cool brooks, from the foot- 
hills of the Alleghenies to the Carolinas. 


THE BLACK-NOSED DACE 
Rhinicthys atronasus 


The Black-Nosed Dace is one of the best of our native fishes for 
aquarium purposes. Found in abundance in small swift-running streams 
of the Delaware Valley, it is an extremely active swimmer and not easily 
caught unless cornered in a small pocket. From constant swimming 
against the current it has developed some specialized kind of balance, 
so that when introduced into the still water of the aquarium, the forward 
part of the body continually drops so a level position is only main- 
tained by an effort. This condition disappears in a few weeks and a new 
equilibrium becomes established. 


72 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


The Black-Nosed Dace is well rounded and full of body, the belly is 
clear white and the black band encircling the body is quite intense. 
It is perfectly harmless and will take almost any food. It is quite sub- 
ject to a parasite which embeds itself deeply in the sides of the fish, pro- 


Fic. 53. Bracx-Nosep Dace (Enlarged one-quarter) 


ducing an appearance that can best be described as looking like “fly- 
specks.” This is common to many of the small wild fishes, and while 
it is not known to have any serious results it is unsightly. Specimens 
free from the parasite should be chosen where possible. The usual 
length is from two to three inches. 


They have been known to survive in the aquarium for several years. 


THE STICKLEBACK 


Froebel, the writer of kindergarten fame, in telling the children of 
the civilized world the life story of the stickleback, has given great promi- 


Fic, 54. THe Stickresack (Enlarged twice) 


nence to this interesting little fish. The interest centres chiefly in the 
breeding habits. Sticklebacks are nest-builders. The male is architect, 
contractor and workman. He selects a suitable location, and by tireless 
efforts gathers together bits of plants, refuse, etc., and makes them into 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 73 


the form of a ring with a roof over it, leaving only an opening for the 
female to enter to deposit her eggs. The nest is glued together by a sticky 
substance exuded from the body of the male fish, who assumes a bright 
red color in parts of the fins at this period. After the female has deposited 
her eggs he drives her away, looking after the nest and young himself until 
they are about 10 days old. He is very pugnacious at this time and will 
attack any living thing that approaches. Different species probably vary 
somewhat in details of breeding habits, An English authority claims that 
in Nature the male persuades as many females as possible to deposit their 
eggs in his nest. The Stickleback is well known as an aquarium fish, but 
it should nct be kept with other fishes. It prefers to eat daphnia or bits 
of small worms. 


THE CHAETODON 


Chaetodons build their nests directly among plants off the bottom. 
These fish are less of fighters and depend more upon hiding their young 


Fic. 55. Tue Cuaetopon (Enlarged one-quarter) 


than upon boldly protecting them. The Chadetodon is one of the most 
charming of all aquarium fishes. Many of them are exported to Europe, 
where they are highly esteemed and bring good prices. This fish has 
quite an individuality—its peculiar markings, precise movements and 
genteel manners setting it quite apart from most other fishes. It swims 
principally by use of the pectoral fins, which are so transparent as to be 
scarcely observable, giving the fish the appearance of moving about by 


74 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


will-power, without physical effort. Chaetodons greatly prefer live 
daphnia to all other foods. If fed upon them regularly it is difficult to 
get them to touch anything else, starvation under these circumstances not 
being uncommon. They do fairly well on dried shrimp once they take it. 


THE SUNFISH 


The Sunfish is one of the most widely distributed and best known 
of our freshwater fishes, American boys being well acquainted with them. 
Most of us have seen the tidy, clean spots fanned out by a pair of sun- 
fishes. This is the “nest” in which the eggs are deposited. Both parents 
protect the young, attacking all comers in a vicious manner. Excepting 
the Chaetodon, or black-banded sunfish, all of the several species are 
Pugnacious, especially when large. They should not be kept with other 
fishes unable to protect themselves and it is inadvisable to have one much 
larger than its fellows, as it will “bully” the other inmates of the aqua- 


Fic. 56. THe Common SunrisH 


rium. Sunfishes have a decided carnivorous tendency, much preferring 
live worms or flies to prepared foods. In winter they will take shreds 
of raw liver. Of the dry foods, ground dried shrimp is the best for them. 
The coloring of the sunfish shows to excellent advantage in the aqua- 
rium, and it will be found a very tame and interesting pet. It can with- 


stand severe temperature changes and will survive for years if suitably 
fed. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 15 


THE SILVERFIN 


Of all the native fishes tried in the aquarium by the writer the 
Silverfin (Notropis analostanus) stands out as one of the most satis- 
factory. For aquarium purposes the male fish should be selected. The 
ends of their fins are of a whitish, phosphorescent color from May till 
September. Darting around in the aquarium, their sleek bodies overcast 
with a pale steel-blue, and sides laced with black edgings of ‘scales they 
make a most attractive appearance. Two of them will often indulge in 
what appears to be a game of tag, during which they will chase each 
other around a short circle, producing the effect of a pinwheel. 


qT tg 


Fic. 57. THE SILVERFIN oR SATINFIN (Slightly enlarged) 


A 50-gallon aquarium, with plenty of open space, containing about 
fifteen adult male silverfins is most fascinating. 

They are very hardy, tame, and will eat any prepared food. Harm- 
less to other fishes. 

They may be caught in the open reaches of the fresh tidal portion of 
the Delaware as well as its upland tributaries. 

Silverfins have been kept in aquaria for several years, but care should 
be exercised to cover with a screen to prevent their leaping out. 


The Darter 


The darters have no swimming bladders and are therefore consider- 
ably heavier than water. They move along the bottom in jerky motions 
somewhat like hopping. When in reach of their prey they make a short 
leap. Although this seems to be short of the object they always succeed 
in getting what they go after. One would imagine them to have a long 
tongue like a frog, moving with invisible rapidity. There is something 
quaint and droll about the darters. The majority of them cannot stand 


warm water. 


5 


76 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Tue Rainzow Darter Esteoma coerulea is probably the most bril- 
liantly colored of our native fishes, being barred with red, blue, orange and 
green in most striking fashion. On account of its brilliant coloring it is 


Ze 
ZE 


i SSS 
== = RE ioe) 


Fic. 58. Tue Darter (Enlarged nearly twice) 


known as the Soldier Fish. It occurs in shallow streams of the Middle 
West. Extremely fond of daphnia or very small worms, but may be- 
come educated to taking shreds of raw meat. They can be kept success- 
fully and are well worth the trouble. 


THE KILLIFISH 


Killifish, both fresh and saltwater forms are among the most hardy 
of the smaller fishes. Used largely as bait-fish on account of their 
tenacity of life, they exhibit the same quality in the aquarium, standing 


Fic. 59. THe KiLlirisH or BULLHEAD MINNOW (Enlarged one-half) 


very bad treatment before succumbing. The barred sides and fleeting 
irridescent colors are most attractive, particularly in the saltwater form 
of Fundulus diaphanus. They will eat anything and are harmless to 
other aquarium fishes. Boys usually know this fish in streams as the 
“bull-head” minnow, while the popular name on the New Jersey coast 
for the saltwater form is “Mummychug.” Size 3 to 4 inches. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES ae 


THE GOLDEN ORFE OR IDE 


Originally imported from Southern Germany, the Golden Orfe has 
become one of the best ornamental pond fishes. They do not stir up the 
mud as do goldfishes and are more active in avoiding their enemies. 


Fic. 60. Tue GotpeN OrFE or IDE (Young) 


The color on the back is orange dotted with black, shading to lighter on 
the sides and white on the abdomen. The extreme length is two feet, 
requiring probably ten years of growth under favorable circumstances. 
The young are suitable for aquarium keeping, but the top must be 
screened to prevent their leaping out. They do best in spring or running 
water and have been successfully bred in the Government fish ponds at 
Washington. 


THE CATFISH 


Any of the forms of Catfishes are well able to take care of them- 
selves in an aquarium. If not large they will not touch other wild fishes, 


Fic. 61. Stone CATFISH 


but should not be kept with goldfishes, as they are likely to nibble at their 
long fins. Catfishes like animal food best, but will take boiled cereals. 


78 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE GOLDEN TENCH 
Tinca aureus. 


As a showy fish of golden orange hue the Golden Tench is con- 
sidered second only to the goldfish itself. Covered with exceedingly fine 
scales and dotted with black it presents by reflected light an irridescent 


<< 


Fic. 62. THe Tencn (Young) 


effect, comparable to that of an opal. By transmitted light they are 
sufficiently translucent to show the skeleton and internal organs. Al- 
though timid they become quite tame and will live on any kind of fish- 
food. Harmless to other fishes and otherwise thoroughly desirable. 
Tenches should be bred in open ponds with mud bottoms. 

The Green Tench is the ancestor of the Golden Tench and differs 
principally in coloring, its color being of a bottle-green character. 
“Tench-green” is a popularly recognized shade of color in some parts 
of Europe. Tenches are liberally supplied with protective slime and it is 
believed by some that fishes injured by accident search out a tench to rub 


the injured part against. For this reason it has been known as the 
“Doctor Fish.” 


AS 


ye 


AR VeeaNaig OS 
Ie OE ae 
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ot 


Fic. 63. THe Sucker (Young) 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 79 


THE SUCKER 
As a novelty the Sucker may be kept in an aquarium. It is by no 
means a handsome fish, appearing somewhat awkward and clumsy. Pre- 
ferring vegetable foods, it will also take earthworms. In habits it is 
perfectly harmless. 


se 
BE: 
a Se 


we 


Fic. 64. THe SHINER 


THE ROACH, OR SHINER 


Here we again have one of the very hardy small aquarium fishes. 
It is decidedly active, and if kept in a bright light shows its brilliant 
silvery sides to advantage. The Roach is seldom still and has a stimulat- 
ing effect upon the more lethargic members of a general collection. It 
is of a gentle nature and is not at all particular as to what it is fed. 


Fic. 65. Tue Cuun (Young) 


THE CHUB 


Not usually known as an aquarium fish the Chub, in the smaller 
sizes, does very well and may be kept with other fishes whether small or 
large. It is a nest-builder, but requires a much larger space than is to 
be thought of in an ordinary aquarium. The Horned Dace, or Creek- 
Chub, is the most lively, and is the best species for the aquarium. Chubs 
are vegetarians, thriving on boiled cereals or white wafer food. 


80 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE MULLET 


Sometimes known as the Chubsucker, the Mullet in the smaller sizes 
makes a satisfactory aquarium fish, entirely harmless and of rather 


Fic. 66. THE Mutiet (Young) 


attractive appearance. The back is green, sides are yellow and abdomen 


is white. May be fed on ordinary fishfood but has pronounced vegetarian 
tendencies. 


Fic. 67. THE Common EEL (Young) 


THE EEL 


Small eels may be kept with a collection of wild fishes, but they look 
out of place with and are dangerous to goldfishes, having the same habit 
as the sunfish and catfish of nibbling at the long fins. They are good 
scavengers, quickly eating any dead snails or other decomposing matter. 
Nothing is too bad (nor too good) for them to greedily eat. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 81 


THE SOLE 


Achirus fasciatus 
Among the interesting novelties in aquarium fishes is the Sole, often 
known as the Freshwater Flounder. Aquarists popularly call it the Aero- 
plane Fish on account of its easy, horizontal progress through the water, 
the swimming being accomplished mainly by an undulating motion of the 
fins at the edges of the body, as shown in the two upper figures of the 
accompanying illustration. The third figure indicates the under side of 


Fic. 68. THe Soe (Young) 

the fish, while the lowest pictures the Sole as it lays half concealed in the 
mud. In the aquarium these fishes frequently fasten themselves flat to the 
sides of the glass by suction. They may be gathered from the muddy flats 
of tidewater streams of the Atlantic Coast. Chopped worms make a 
suitable diet for them. Sizes such as pictured are good aquarium in- 
habitants. 


THE CARP 


The Carp is one of the most widely known of fishes. Its tenacity 
of life is extraordinary considering that it is not an air-breather or laby- 
rinth fish. When sold as a food fish it is kept alive for a day or two when 
barely moistened with water. Common goldfishes well wrapped in wet 
Anacharis or Myriophyllum and packed in a tight tin box can safely be 
sent on a 12-hour journey or more. 

A number of varieties of carp are kept as ornamental pond and 
large aquarium fishes. The principal ones are the Mirror, the Leather 
and the Golden Carp. There are in this country at the present time some 


82 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


extremely handsome fancy carp of Japanese breeding, having blue backs, 
red sides, white bellies, and with the large irregularly placed scales of the 


THE CARNIVOROUS FISHES 


The Pike, Bass, Perch and other predaceous fishes are not suited to 
the household aquarium, although small ones are sometimes kept. If fed 
upon meat it is important that no uneaten particles be allowed to remain. 


COLLECTING IN STREAMS AND PONDS 


There are pleasures connected with the stocking of a wild-fish 
aquarium which are unknown to those interested only in goldfishes. The 
actual contact with Nature, the study of the fishes in their native habitat, 
the ever-present possibility of finding something new, the companionship 
and health afforded on outings are some of the more important assets of 
the collector. For this work two kinds of nets should be provided. 

These consist of a minnow seine and a large landing net of small 
mesh, fitted with a sectional rod. The seine should be operated by two 
persons. Poles are attached to the lower lines containing the sinkers, 
while the float line is pulled forward by the hand, slightly behind the 
lower line. They can be operated with great success in any shallow 
stream where the fish can be manceuvered into a corner for the final 
sweep. Care should be exercised to put back all fish not actually wanted, 
and also not to try to carry so many home that they all suffocate before 
arrival. The landing net is used mainly in streamlets. It is operated by 
a quick overhead swoop and the net pulled rapidly over the bottom 
towards the fisherman. The net should be of a depth of about 25 inches 
and had best be secured to the frame by brass rings of about 5% inch 
diameter, procurable in upholstery stores. These prevent the cutting of 
the net when dragging over stones. Very little success can be had by 
scooping upwards. 


Chapter Seven 


Alphabetical List 
of the 


Principal Aquarium Fishes 


From Tropical and Temperate 
Waters, followed by a Description of 
their Requirements, Peculiarities 
and Breeding Habits 


Note.—A number of the foreign dealers in their 
catalogues use obsolete scientific names of fishes. 
As these books have heretofore been the only 
source of information to many fanciers, we 
include the old designations in this list, bracket- 
ing them, as far as possible, with the correct 
names. 


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TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 93 


DESCRIPTIVE KEY 


To Foregoing List of Aquarium Fishes 


For all practical purposes the breeding habits of known aquarium 
fishes may be classed under 18 headings. Instead of needless repetition, 
each of these is described but once. By matching the following key letters 
and figures with those in the preceding Alphabetical List, full information 
regarding any of the listed fishes may be had. 


EXPLANATION: The letter B stands for “Breeding” and the 
figure in alphabetical list specifies to which breeding group each fish 
belongs. 


The letter N stands for “Nature” or disposition of the fish, particu- 
larly with reference to whether it may be kept with other fishes, and if 
so, under what conditions. 


B1 GROUP 
DANIO FAMILY. All fishes of this group drop their eggs freely 


in the water, while actively swimming alongside their mates, frequently 
more than one male participating in the (external) fructification of the 
eggs as extruded. This group of fish have a tendency to devour their 
eggs as soon as dropped and under aquarium conditions this should be 
guarded against by providing shelter for the eggs to fall amongst, such as 
stones, densely-growing vegetation, etc. The eggs are non-adhesive and 
can be moved by the action of the water or otherwise at any period during 
development, which lasts only from 3 to 5 days, according to the tem- 
perature of the water, action of sunlight, etc. The young fish hang like 
“commas” against the glass sides of the aquarium in which they hatch 
(the parent fish having been carefully removed immediately after 
spawning was completed), and after a couple of days they adopt the 
position of normal adult fish in the water, ‘swimming horizontally in 
search of food, such as infusoria, etc., and later small daphnia and 
cyclops. Young fishes of this group take kindly to finely powdered dry 
fish foods and do well on it. As they grow, the larger specimens should 
be separated from the smaller ones or the latter will be starved. Tem- 
perature of the water should be maintained at the MAXIMUM given 
under temperature herein or slightly higher and so kept until at least two 
months later before allowing it to drop at all. 


Bla GROUP 


BARB FAMILY. Same as the preceding, except that the eggs are 
adhesive to the plants, stones or glass aquarium sides. 


94 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


B2 GROUP 


THE BASS OR THE SUNFISH GROUP. Eggs are fertilized 
externally of the parent fish, deposited in a hollow excavated in a sandy 
bottom by the adults for this purpose and carefully guarded by the male 
until they hatch a few days later and also after the young fish first emerge 
and are defenceless from their enemies. Microscopic live food in the form 
of Infusoria must be adundantly provided for the young fish, who, even 
later, do not take kindly if at all to prepared dry foods. 


B3 GROUP 


THE CARP FAMILY, including all the varieties of the Goldfish. 
Spawning habits same as Group Bla, differing only in respect to the fact 
that the fish under B3 deposit their eggs all over the plants, mainly at 
the surface. Fish of Group Bla usually deposit their spawn near the 
bottom. See page 48. 


B4 GROUP 


THE CHARACIN FAMILY, mostly distinguishable by the small 
adipose or fat rayless fin situated on the back between the dorsal fin 
and tail. Spawn like Group Bla. 


B5 GROUP 
THE CICHLID GROUP. Fish of this family deposit adhesive 


eggs on stones or, in the aquarium, on the convex side of a large flower- 
pot, laid on its side. Eggs hatch in 3 or 4 days, during which period the 
parents take turns in swimming over the eggs and fanning fresh water 
over them all the time. When the young hatch out, the parents carry 
them in their mouths and deposit them in a depression previously made 
in the sand at the bottom, where they jealously guard them against all 
comers—human or aquatic—frequently removing dirt, etc., from the 
“nest” and transferring the baby fish to new nests three or four times a 
day. For the first ten days after hatching the young fish eat nothing but 
live in a swarm at the bottom, while they absorb the contents of the um- 
bilical sac or bag of yolk-of-egg-like fluid beneath the abdomen. At the 
end of this period they begin to look like fish and then they all get up 
off the bottom and swim around their parents who continue to guard 
them closely. From this time on they require “Baby” Fishfood—small 
cyclops, daphnia, etc., though they will eat dried fish food if finely 
powdered. Ten days after they begin to feed, the parents should be 
removed, each to a separate aquarium. The Cichlids dislike and destroy 
plants, so none should be provided but they require clean, pure water, so 
some should be changed (siphoning all dirt from the bottom )—daily, 
replacing it with hydrant water, blended hot and cold to same tempera- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 95 


ture as that in the aquarium, which should be of an uniform summer 
heat. Keep no other fish with Cichlids. 


B6 GROUP 


THE GOBY GROUP (Gobiide). These include bottom fish from 
all over the world, occurring in shallow streams or shallow shore-waters— 
marine, brackish and fresh. Little is known of their spawning habits, 
beyond the fact that some spawn among—-and on—the stones on the 
bottom. Others—small species—will spawn on the inside—i. e., concave 
side—of a piece of drain pipe laid on its side in the aquarium and others 
spawn among the weeds (roots) on the sand or mud. Some protect 
their spawn. Others do so but little if at all. Among the Gobiide are 
our well-known “Darters’—familiar to the country schoolboy—also 
the “Miller’s Thumb,” “Tommy Cod” or “Sculpin” (Cottus ictalops, 
Rafinesque) and the most peculiar “Mud-Springer” (Periopthalmus 
koelreuteri) from the Tropical Tide-waters of Africa and Asia. Shallow 
water is a prime requisite for these fish, the last named species requiring 
stones projecting above the water, sloping up gradually, upon which the 
fish likes to climb out of water and “bask.” As to rearing the young, 
aquarists must experiment and persevere, as very few have had much 
success with them and those who have reared any have been European 
aquarists with abundant time and patience. 


B7 GROUP 


LABYRINTH FISH (possessed of an air-cavity or cell beneath 
each gill-cover, in which a supply of air is stored for breathing). These 
fish are all air-breathers, coming frequently to the surface to replenish the 
air in the “storage chamber.”” Most of the Labyrinth fish build “bubble 
nests”, i. e., secrete a “glue” in their mouths, and blow air-bubbles 
coated with this glue, which float in a mass and in which the male 
places the eggs, immediately after fertilization, which takes place in 
mid-water, the parent fish intertwining their bodies immediately under 
the nest of bubbles at frequent intervals, extruding a few eggs at a time. 
Then as the fish relax their embrace, the male catches the eggs in his 
mouth and blows them—each one separately—into the air-bubble nest. 

As soon as all the eggs have been extruded from the female and 
fertilized in the external embrace of the parent fish, the male having 
gathered all eggs into the floating nest, he then drives the female to as 
distant a corner of the aquarium as possible (as he knows that she will 
eat the eggs if she gets a chance) and for about 36 hours the male fish 
guards the nest and eggs and re-arranges the eggs and adds more bubbles 
where required. Towards the end of the hatching process, the male 
spreads the nest out as much as possible, to give the hatching young as 


96 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


much air surface as he can and indeed it is difficult for the newly-hatched 
young to escape from the air-bubbles, as they are held there by the 
attraction of cohesion. Within the next three days they become independ- 
ent and scatter from the nest, whereupon the male fish must at once be 
removed. The female should be removed as soon as she is observed to 
have finished spawning and has been driven away from the nest by the 
male. The temperature must be kept high—mid-summer temperature 
as in a hot-house—for at least two or three months after the young hatch 
out. The young fish being microscopic must be well supplied with Infu- 
soria—the microscopic dust-like form of living creatures native to most 
old, standing water, which in turn must be cultivated. See page 57. Do 
not disturb the young fish. They must remain in the aquarium in which 
they hatch at all events until they are plainly recognizable as fish of their 
own species and at least a quarter of an inch long. As soon as they 
seem to have assumed solidity, i. e., dark, round bodies, which they should 
have at 14-inch long—they must be fed with finely-strained young cyclops 
and daphnia and from that time on the growth is rapid. All young fish 
—of whatever kind—which outgrow their fellows, must be separated into 
other aquaria or compartments, as otherwise they starve or eat the smaller 
ones. 


B7a GROUP 


LABYRINTH FISH WHICH BUILD NO NESTS but deposit 
their spawn loose and floating in the water. This class includes the 
Snake-heads (Ophiocephalide) and the Climbing Perch (Anabantide). 
Hardy fish, generally accustomed to living in cooler water than the Nest- 
building Labyrinth Fishes—though at the breeding season the temperature 
should be raised to at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit and kept high for the 
first two or three months of the existence of the young fish. Parent fish 
both to be removed as soon as eggs appear—if they do appear—for it is 
difficult to get these fish to spawn. Care of young fish same as that 
indicated for the young of Nest-building Labyrinth Fish. 


B&8 GROUP 


TOOTH CARPS (Oviparous or Egg-laying Group)—These include 
the Haplochilus Group, the Fundulus Group or “Top-Minnows” native to 
our American streams, Cyprinodons, Lebias, Cynolebias and Rivulus. 
The Haplochilus mostly spawn at or near the surface on floating 
bushy plants. So do the Rivulus, and most varieties of the Fundulus. 
Lebias and Cynolebias bury their eggs separately in the bottom and they 
take seven to eight weeks to hatch, so not much success can be expected 
from these last two species. Others again spawn nearer to the bottom 
and like Haplochilus and Rivulus, eggs adhere to plants separately. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 97 


The general rule with Haplochilus and Rivulus is to keep sexes 
separated and then put the pairs together for three or four days in warm, 
sunny aquaria with dense plant growth, such as Riccia, the ‘small, light 
green Utricularia, Anacharis, bushy Thread-Alge or Willow Moss 
(Fontinalis). Then remove parent fish, keep separate again ten days 
and repeat—each time using a separate aquarium and plants for receiv- 
ing spawn. Eggs take about ten days to hatch at summer temperature 
with Rivulus and Haplochilus and individual young fish must be fished 
out with a teaspoon and kept in the same aquarium water at same temper- 
ature at which they hatch and fed first with Infusoria and later with small 
Cyclops and Daphnia. 


BI GROUP 


LIVE-BEARING TOOTH-CARPS. All the fishes belonging to this 
class are natives of America—the Southern States of the United States, 
Central America and South America (Northern). They are generally 
easy to keep and breed in the aquarium, require mostly uniform summer 
temperature and clean water, and if well fed and kept in well-planted, spa- 
cious aquaria, reward their keeper abundantly with frequent large families. 
When the females are seen to be “heavy” with young (indicated by a 
dark patch in the abdomen and great fulness of that part) and when they 
act restlessly, seeking to avoid their mates and getting into the thickest 
vegetation in the aquarium, then these females may be considered as 
about to give birth to their young. They must then be placed preferably 
in large straight-sided glass bell jars (8 inch), in about 3 inches of water, 
with thick floating vegetation occupying at least 2/3 of the jar and that 
placed toward the light in a sunny place and covered over with a piece of 
glass or a plate. When the young are born, they instinctively seek shelter 
from their cannibalistic parent and swim toward the light. If the vegeta- 
tion is toward the light, most of the young ones will be safe from the 
mother until discovered, when the mother fish can be returned to the 
aquarium, most of the plants removed from the jar and the young fed on 
powdered fishfood. The breeding jars shown on page 230 do away with 
the necessity for plants or other shelter for the young. 


B10 GROUP 
MISCELLANEOUS FISHES. Some species do not come under 
these classifications and are unknown in respect to their breeding habits. 
Bll GROUP 


MOUTHBREEDERS. The fish should be provided with a mod- 
erate sized aquarium with about two inches of clean sand in the bottom. 
The fish prepare a shallow nest in the sand, where the eggs are first 


98 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


laid and fertilized. In most varieties the eggs are then taken in the 
mouth of the female, who, by a chewing movement of the jaws, keeps 
a constant flow of water among the eggs. The parent not carrying the 
eggs should be removed. So large is the volume of eggs that the head 
of the fish has a noticeably distended appearance. The hatching takes 
from fifteen to twenty days. After the young are hatched it may be 
several days before one may see them, for the mother at first only allows 
them to swim out in search of infusorian food at night. At the first sign 
of alarm they rush back into her mouth. When about a week to ten 
days old they are able to look after themselves and the mother should be 
removed and the young fed on microscopic food, daphnia, etc. The best 
breeding temperature is about 75° Fahrenheit. From the time of spawn- 
ing until separated from the young the female should be offered no food. 
As this is a drain on the health of the fish, they should not be bred oftener 
than twice a year. 


B12 


PYRRHULINA FILAMENTOSA AND COPEINA ARNOLDI 
are the only fish listed in this work having the peculiar breeding habits 
here described. Both fish leap out of the water and adhere for several 
seconds to the sides or cover of the aquarium, which should be somewhat 
rough. Ground glass or slate will do. Fifteen or twenty eggs are 
deposited at a time until from 100 to 200 are laid. When spawning is 
completed the female should be removed. The male, by swift movements 
of the head and tail, splashes water on the eggs at short intervals. The 
eggs hatch in from two to four days, after which the male parent should 
be removed. Feed young on infusoria and later on small daphnia. 


B13 


EGGS ADHERE ON GLASS sides of aquariums or stones or plants, 
remaining there until hatched in a few days. The young swim in a shoal 
around the old ones as in B5 Group. Feed in similar manner. 


B14 


STICKLEBACK males build nests from bits of plants, glued to- 
gether. After female deposits eggs he drives her away and assumes entire 
parental responsibilities. See also page 72. 


B15 


POLYCENTRUS SCHOMBURKI spawns on upper concave side 
of small flower-pot, laid on its side. Newly hatched young hang from 
leaves by means of a hook on the top of their heads. Eggs and young 
protected by male, as female is apt to eat them, and should be removed. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES _ 99 


Badis badis spawns on the inside of a small, upright flower-pot, sunk 
half way in the sand. Remove both parents when voung are first observed. 


B16 


PTEROPHYLLUM SCALARE spawn like B5 Group, except that 
eggs are deposited on glass sides or broad-leaved plants, and they do not 
bury the young, but stick them in different parts of the aquarium for 
several days. Eggs hatch in 214 days. Parents should be removed in 
eight days. To breed these fish requires a well-planted aquarium and 
plenty of seclusion. Breeders should be well fed up on mosquito larve, 
young tropical fishes or freshwater shrimps. They also eat Water- 
boatmen. Breeding temperature, from 75° to 80°. 


INDEX TO NATURE OR TEMPERAMENT OF FISHES 


Different persons will have varving experiences with the same kinds 
of fishes under apparently identical conditions. In fact one’s own obser- 
vations will sometimes change from year to year. The writer, for instance, 
has heretofore always found that Mexican Swordtail fishes kill Coral 
Snails, yet this year they are living together in perfect accord. There- 
fore we bespeak the indulgence of those whose observations do not agree 
in all details with the statements here published. The data has been 
gathered from the most experienced experts the world over, and whilz 
some minor points may, from time to time, be open to question, the main 
facts stated are authentic and should form a practical guide for the hand- 
ling of nearly all known varieties of aquarium fishes. 


N1 GROUP 


Indicates that fish so marked are of a generally peaceful disposition, 
not disposed to hunt trouble nor to persecute or devour other species 
kept with them. This data applies mainly to the Barbus group among 
tropical fishes and the Cyprinoid minnows in the temperate division. 
However, large fish of any kind take advantage of their size and tyran- 
nize over their associates more or less and also monopolize the food. So 
even if a fish is indicated “‘N. 1.” it is as well to keep only such fish 
as are of approximately the same size together—just as large young fish 
should be separated from smaller ones of the same species. 


N2 GROUP 


Fish of this class are generally amiable and peaceable and are mainly 
of the live-bearing Tooth-Carp group. Some of these, again, such as 
Gambusia affinis and varieties, Pseudoxiphophorus bimaculata, Phal- 
loceros caudimaculata and Belonesox belizanus—(this last not a Tooth- 
Carp)—should only be kept with their own species. Males which “rule 


7 


100 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


the roost” will fight with their rivals as roosters in a barnyard. Dense 
vegetation and sufficient space are the best protection for weaker fish, and 
females which have just had young should be isolated for several days 
before being placed with their males, or they may be persecuted to death. 
With the exceptions of the species herein specified, most live-bearers will 
live together in harmony in a large aquarium. It is not good policy to 
keep Live-bearers, Egg-droppers (Barbus), Egg-layers (Oviparous 
Tooth-Carp) and Labyrinth fish all together. Such things can be done 
in very large aquaria but the weaker will soon show signs of persecution. 


N3 GROUP 


Members of this group are mostly the egg-laying Tooth-Carp, such 
as Haplochilus, Fundulus and Rivulus. These can be kept in large num- 
bers together, if of same size, but otherwise are best kept in pairs. The 
larger species such as H. sexfasciatus, Rubrostigma, &c., are best kept 
only with their own species as their tendency is generally warlike. They 
eat their own and other smaller species and individuals. Dense vegeta- 
tion and space are the best remedy. 


N4 GROUP 


Fish of this classification are more or less inclined to hunt trouble, 
but when kept in numbers together, each fish is afraid of a rear-attack 
from his fellows and consequently harmony prevails. This refers to the 
Labyrinth fish or Bubble-nest builders and is noticeably manifest among 
Paradise fish, Polyacanthus cupanus and dayi, Osphromenus, &c. The 
Dwarf gourami is remarkable for his peaceable and amiable nature but 
he is not entitled to undue credit on that account as it is more than likely 
that his shyness has much to do with his decent behavior. At breeding 
time he will attack his mate should she approach the nest containing eggs 
or young—but then she should be taken out anyhow and that rule applies 
to all Labyrinth fish. 


N5 GROUP 


Very large Goldfish and other members of the Carp family some- 
times eat their smaller brethren, but in the main they are peaceable and 
devoid of the combative element. Except for a scavenger fish or two 
it is better to keep highly developed goldfishes by themselves. 


N6 GROUP 


This group includes the most voracious species, such as the Cichlids, 
&c., which should be kept separately, even from their mates, except at 
breeding time and then large flower pots should be provided for shelter 
and no plants kept with fish. Large, ‘shallow aquaria and abundant clear 
water are requisite. 


Chapter Eight 


Tropical Aquaria 


102 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


TROPICAL AQUARIA 


General Conditions. Where one has limited space and wishes for 
a variety of fishes, it will be found that many of the tropical varieties now 
available will do admirably. Most of them stand close quarters, thriving 
in aquaria which are nothing more than quart jars. Some of the fishes 
are of such belligerent disposition that they must be kept alone, and in 
these cases it is well that they will stand cramped quarters. Larger 
aquaria with divisions for separating the different species are a conveni- 
ence, especially if artificial heating has to be resorted to. 


The question of space, however, is not the chief point in favor of 
tropical fishes. It is the endless variety of habit, structure and coloring, 
opening as it continually does new avenues for personal study and observa- 
tion. Some idea of the variation in breeding habits alone is contained on 
pages 92 to 98. 


Feeding. The majority of tropical fishes are not heavy feeders like 
goldfishes and there is not great danger of overfeeding. Care should of 
course be taken to leave no unconsumed food in the water. When they 
are warm and comfortable they may be fed twice daily, although this is 
not essential. 


The proper types of food are shown on pages 84 to 91. Those indi- 
cated as “omniverous” may be fed the same as goldfishes, see page 128. 
An exclusive diet of dried shrimp agrees with most tropical fishes, but 
some variation is better. In summer they should have some daphnia, and 
in winter, enchytrae, see page 136. 


Heating. The majority of tropical species thrive in temperatures 
ranging from 65° to 80° F. Nearly all will do well at 70°. For short 
periods they will stand temperatures below that at which they will thrive, 
and it is very probable that after a few generations in our climate they 
become accustomed to cooler water. When fishes are new and rare it is 
emphatically a mistake to experiment on seeing how low a temperature 
they will stand. That should be left for a later period after breeding has 
been accomplished and a stock secured. Tight-fitting glass covers should 
be provided for all tropical aquaria. This helps keep the temperature up 
and prevents the fish from leaping out. Forgetfulness of replacing covers 
has caused the loss of many prized fishes. They will not suffocate if glass 
is down close. 


Fic. 70. Sphenops vittatus (Croaking Gourami) 


This picture illustrates one phase of the breeding habits of the lbubble-nest 
builders. The males takes entire charge of the nest and young. 


Fic. 71, THe Cyanxcuito (Heres facets) 


Fic. 72. Polyacanthus dayi 


Upper Fish, 7 (Male) 
Lower Fish, , (Female) 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 105 


If one is not blessed with a heated greenhouse or a room of warm, 
even temperature, artificial heating becomes necessary. There are several 
devices which accomplish this purpose, but only a few are satisfactory. 
In general those are to be avoided which concentrate the heat on a small 
portion of the aquarium water. This action drives out oxygen and other 
life-giving qualities and also produces uneven temperature for the fish to 


Fic. 74. InprrEcT EXTERNAL HEATER 


Fic. 73. Direct ExTERNAL HEATER 


Fic. 75. Inprrect SystEM THRouGH Base, SHowinc ImproveD Vapor EXPANSION 
Hoox Unper WatTER 


pass through. Such an arrangement is shown in Fig. 73. Aquarium 
water is directly heated in the small outside reservoir and circulated 
back again. With this device the water intake may easily become clogged, 
which soon causes the water to boil. This heating method is frequently 
used, but it is bad in theory and in practise. A better arrangement is 
shown in Fig. 74, which is a complete hot water system not using the 
aquarium water. The tubing is of copper, 14 inch inside diameter, and of 
thin walls. Before bending any such work to shape it should be packed 
quite hard with dry sand and the ends corked up. This prevents 
buckling at the sharp curves. At the very top of the loop rising from the 
heating coil should be bored a %4-inch hole and a small funnel soldered 
around this. All hot water systems create some vapor. If this were 
allowed to collect in the pipe there could be no circulation and boiling 
‘would soon take place. The two open ends need not be soldered together. 
They can be satisfactorily joined by rubber tubing. but this should be 
arranged to occur in the rising side of pipe in the water. This whole 
arrangement can be hooked over the edge of any aquarium and has the 


106 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


advantage that the aquarium does not have to be raised to heat from 
underneath. The first filling of the system is not always easy. Water is 
poured in the funnel until it will take no more. Then the hand is placed 
over the funnel and the pipe turned upside down. Turn upright again and 
put in more water. Hold at different angles. When it will take no more 
water, try heat under the coil. If the water in funnel moves up and down 
there is still air in the tube. Sometimes it can be removed by actively fill- 
ing and discharging a fountain pen filler in the opening. When it works 
smoothly and the heat travels past the funnel, it is all right to use. The 
funnel must always contain water, or boiling will soon occur. If a filled 
bottle with small neck is inverted, stood in funnel and secured in some 
manner, it will last a long time without refilling. The copper tubing 
should be heavily nickled after bending into shape, as copper is fatal in 
the aquarium. 


Fig. 75 shows a modification of the same idea with the pipe carried 
through aquarium base. The little hook at top of the hot water system 
was devised by the writer to avoid the necessity of filling the funnel, and 
to have the heater more concealed. The tubes within the water are of 
glass, connected by rubber, the end hook also being a separate piece. By 
removing this the system is easily filled. When it is on, the vapor collects 
in top of hook, and when enough has collected to force a bubble out, a drop 
of water is automatically sucked back to take its place. The air space in 
hook also prevents any circulation between hot water system and aquarium 
water proper. This system also gives a higher percentage of heating 
efficiency than the outside hook-on form. 


pes 


JL a 


Fics. 76 anp 77. Direct Heatinc THroucH Pan anp THroucH MeEtaL Disc 


For the highest efficiency and greatest all-round satisfaction, note 
should be taken of Fig. No. 76. This is a 4-inch agate pan set in the 
cement base described on page 216. When making the aquarium it is no 
extra labor to set this in. For aquaria already constructed it is somewhat 
of an undertaking to cut a sufficiently large hole, but it can be done and 
the pan cemented on top. Fig. 77 shows a simple and fairly effective ex- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 107 


pedient. After hole is cut in slate, pour in lead or tin. When the metal 
is poured, use a form made of putty so that the surface of metal will come 
as high as the sand. The object in using the inverted pan is to have 
the heating surface come just above the sand. Then the heat is the most 
efficient as well as fairly diffused and does not interfere with the roots of 
plants. The objections to this type are that the aquarium has to be raised 
and that there is an occasional drip of condensed water caused by com- 
bustion. The best flame to use is a small gas Bunsen burner. They may 
be had of some scientific apparatus concerns or dealers in German 
aquarium supplies. These dealers also handle a rather good all-glass 
aquarium for heating by lamp, and which does not need to be raised. 
There is, however, the eternal liability of cracking. All-glass aquaria at 
best are liable to crack, and particularly when unevenly heated. In the 
German catalogs and aquarium publications will be found numberless 
heating devices, but after trying many of them and inventing some de- 
fective ones himself, the author finds those described here the most 
practical. Smells are caused by chilling the flame before combustion is 
complete. No more than the tip of flame should be allowed to touch the 
heating surface. Even this is not necessary in system shown in Fig. 76. 


Heat Control. In a room where there are violent changes of tem- 
perature, particularly when these dip to the cold side, it is desirable to 
have some means of heat control. To start in the simplest way first, an 
aquarium may be kept noticeably warmer over night by covering with a 
thick blanket, quilt or any warm fabric. If near a window the curtain 
should be pulled completely down. Another help for any aquarium near 
a window is to have a sheet of glass standing on the base and leaning 
against the top of the aquarium. This sheds much of the cold air which 
constantly falls from a window in cold weather. 

Tropical aquaria may be kept at a satisfactory temperature standing 
on a hot-water radiator, the heating result not being so extreme as might 
be supposed. 

The most satisfactory means of controlling temperature is to heat by 
gas and use a gas thermostat to control gas flow. See Fig. 78. This is 
placed either in the water or tightly against the outside of the aquarium 
and insulated from the influence of surrounding air by plenty of wool or 
cotton batting. It contains a large body of mercury over which the gas 
passes through a small space. As the water rises in temperature, the 
mercury expands and so reduces the gas supply, and vice versa. It is a 
very ingenious and effective device and may be obtained from makers of 
scientific glassware at small cost. Those selling them are glad to give 
instructions regarding regulation, etc. The Arthur H. Thomas Company, 
of Philadelphia, are specialists in this line. With this equipment in oper- 


108 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


ation one never need worry about aquarium temperature as long as the 


wind cannot blow out the small pilot light. 
For devices to heat aquaria electrically we recommend the Simplex 


Electric Co., Cambridge, Mass. They are experts and sell their apparatus 
at moderate prices. 


Fic. 78. Gas THERMOSTAT 


Chapter Nine 


Marine Aquaria 


110 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


MARINE AQUARIA 


The maintenance of a marine aquarium is really much simpler than 
is generally supposed. If aquarium lovers realized the great charm and 
the unlimited possibilities of a marine tank, there can be no doubt many 
more would interest themselves in this particular form of the hobby. It 
is safe to say that not a score of persons in America at this time have 
saltwater aquaria, although when once established they are as easily kept 
as the freshwater kinds. Then, too, there is the fascination of collecting 
from a field of inexhaustible variety, giving the student always something 
new to work on, with the ever-present possibility of discovering some fact 
of value to science or to his fellow aquarist. To those living within easy 
journey to the shore is the added attraction of the trip to the seaside, the 
pleasures of which are doubled by the pursuit of such a delightful and 
absorbing study. 


Aeration. There are just a few points of radical difference between 
the fresh and saltwater aquaria. We have carefully pointed out the oxy- 
genating value of aquatic plants, and shown how their work is necessary 
to a “balanced,” or reciprocating aquarium. This factor must be left out 
of consideration in the saltwater aquarium, for marine plants perform 
this function to so small a degree as to become unimportant. The Ulva, 
or Sea Lettuce is the most satisfactory of the easily obtained plants. It 
has been known to do well for quite long periods. A few bits of cork 
placed beneath will cause it to float to the top, where it looks and does 
best, at the same time shading the water. The beautiful Actiniz, or Sea 
Anemonies, which are flower-formed animals, present a bewildering array 
of form and color far surpassing any freshwater plants. These were 
once supposed to form a connecting link between the animal and vegetable 
worlds, but this is an error, the beautiful creatures belonging purely to the 
animal kingdom. Other attached animals also make up for the lack of 
vegetable life as far as appearance is concerned. 

For the lack of oxygen from plants we have either to depend upon 
mechanical processes, or to substantially reduce our number of aquarium 
inmates. The surface of the water takes up enough oxygen to maintain 
a few animals, but if our ideas are more ambitious it will be best to install 
an air pump such as described on page 10. This will more than com- 
pensate for any plant deficiency, especially if the air is liberated in very 
small bubbles. In the case of large maine aquaria where the water is 
constantly pumped out, filtered and returned, the oxygenating is accom- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 111 


plished by a very simple, and at the same time, clever device. The water 
is discharged with some force from a small pipe into the open end of 
another pipe just enough larger that the water discharge pipe will fit 
loosely in it. The second pipe is the liberator, and is carried to the bottom 
of the aquarium, where it is bent to a right-angle so as to shoot the air 
somewhat horizontally across the aquarium. If the aquarium is very deep 
(3 to 5 feet), the liberator pipe should extend about 8 inches above the 
surface of the aquarium. Otherwise the air in the column of water in 
the liberator pipe would make it so light that it would back up instead 


of discharging in the bottom of the aquarium. In shallower aquaria the 
liberator pipe will not need to stand so high above water-level. By this 


method the air bubbles are mostly very minute, producing the effect, 
from a little distance, of smoke. The heavy specific gravity of marine 
water enables us to break up the air finer than in fresh water. 


Marine Aquaria. While it may not always be possible to entirely 
avoid having metal come into contact with the water of the marine 
aquarium, this risk should be reduced to a minimum. Copper, brass and 
zinc are particularly dangerous. The metal now coming into use, Monel 
metal, is not entirely free from copper, but, on the whole, is very satis- 
factory, and has the advantage of great strength as well as a pleasing 
light color. Marine bronze is also good and not so expensive as Monel. 
Iron pipes and valves lined with lead are now made, especially for resisting 
chemicals. These are very fine for carrying marine water to and from 
the aquarium. Something less expensive, but quite satisfactory for large 
work, is wooden pipe. Quantities of this piping are used in the marine 
division at the Philadelphia Public Aquarium, with perfectly satisfactory 
results. For the aquarian, working on a comparatively small scale, lead 
pipe is best. 

With the all-glass aquarium we have no metal problem to contend 
with. Aquaria of the smaller sizes are satisfactory for marine purposes 
if not overstocked. In the executive offices of the Battery Park Aqua- 
rium in New York City, they have in successful operation a number of 
bell-jar aquaria, one of them having continued without interruption, except 
for change of animals, since 1900. This should give reassurance to those 
who hesitate to establish marine aquaria. 

In using metal-framed aquaria a narrow strip of glass should be 
placed over the cement in the corners. A recent improvement is a glass 
rod of suitable diameter, say about one-quarter inch. This can be pressed 
in all the way to the glass and the surplus cement wiped away, making a 
substantial, quick and neat result. The disadvantage of glass strips is 
that no thin glass is straight, the bend always making an unsatisfactory 
job. 


112 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Lighting. Another radical difference from the freshwater aquarium 
is that the marine aquarium requires considerably less light. When we 
see such intense light at the shore, it is difficult to realize that only a few 
feet down the light is so absorbed as to produce a very subdued effect; 
yet such is the case. If a moderately strong light is kept on marine water 
it will quickly turn green. To clear it will take several weeks of standing 
in the dark. Requiring only a weak light should, in many instances, prove 
a strong recommendation for the keeping of a marine aquarium where one 
has insufficient light for the successful development of freshwater plants. 
Mussels will usually clear green freshwater. The author tried a liberal 
quantity of marine mussels to clear marine water, but three hours of direct 
sun and five hours of strong diffused light multiplied the green vegetal 
organisms faster than the mussels could keep pace with. The same 
aquarium in the same light, when used as a regular goldfish container, 
never became green. 


Strength of Marine Water. For some reason not understood, pure 
ocean water is not as successful in the aquarium as that which has been 
somewhat diluted. The reason may be that while the fishes can stand 
the change successfully, many of their microscopic enemies are unable 
to do so—exactly the reverse of the theory of treating freshwater fishes 
with a saltwater solution. Be the theory what it may, experienced marine 
aquarists have obtained better results with diluted water in still aquaria. 
Naturally, if new seawater can be continuously pumped in, nothing could 
be better, particularly as this contains the desirable small food otherwise 
difficult or impossible to supply. 


A hydrometer for testing the strength of salt in the aquarium water 
should be provided. Natural seawater has a strength of 1.023 to 1.031. 
If this is reduced to about 1.020, the animals will do better than at full 
strength. It should not go below 1.017, nor above 1.022. 


Having established a certain water-level at a proper hydrometer 
strength, it ought to be maintained at that point by the addition of pure, 
freshwater, never using marine water to make up for evaporation. The 
salts do not evaporate, and soon the aquarium would be in the lifeless 
condition of the Dead Sea or Salt Lake. A glass cover will prevent some 
evaporation, but if an air pump is used, some evaporation will be inevita- 
ble. No trouble will be experienced if the water is kept to a level, as sug- 
gested, by the addition of freshwater. 


Shipping Seawater. If seawater must be shipped, careful considera- 
tion should be given to the kind of carriers wsed. The action of saltwater 
on zinc, copper, brass and iron is rapid, the resultant chemical action 
charging the water with poisonous metallic salts. Of the metals men- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 113 


tioned, iron is the least injurious and zinc the most, on account of the 
rapidity of chemical action of salt on this metal. Therefore, galvanized 
iron is to be particularly avoided, as it is zinc-plated. The author on one 
occasion could only secure a galvanized pail in which to bring a collection 
home. As the trip was only three hours and the pail was a well-seasoned 
one he thought the chances of success were reasonably good. When the 
can was opened the water showed a slight milkiness and the fishes were 
nearly dead, although they had not been crowded. On being placed in the 
aquarium they soon revived. The best metal in which to ship is tin. This, 
or any other metal, should first receive a coating of asphaltum varnish. 
Even galvanized iron when asphaltum-coated is safe for journeys of 
moderate length, but the asphaltum will eventually chip off and the pail 
or can should be carefully looked over each time before using. It might 
be well to say here that the life of tin pails for freshwater will last much 
longer if coated with asphaltum varnish. A thin coat spread evenly lasts 
better than a thick one. 


The very best water-shipping medium is a protected glass bottle or 
carboy. Arrangements can usually be made to rent or borrow a few of 
these from drinking-water concerns. If possible the water should be 
taken from several miles out at sea and not near the mouth of any large 
river, Clear seawater may be stored indefinitely in carboys in a subdued 
light, although it would be better to first filter it to remove the larger 
microscopic life. 


Artificial Seawater. Experience varies regarding the use of artificial 
seawater. This may be due to difference in the degree of purity of chem- 
icals used or care in their mixing. The author has not been particularly 
successful with artificial marine water, although some writers claim it to 
be better than ocean water because of its freedom from impurities and 
marine bacteria. The following is a correct working formula for artificial 
seawater. There are other elements in the ocean, but in such small quanti- 
ties as to be negligible for our purposes: 


Sodium chloride (Tablesalt)..2 Ib. 8 25. 18 gr. 
Magnesium chloride ........ 35. 53. 13 gr. 
Magnesium sulphate ........ 25. 33.19 8 gr. 
Potassium sulphate ......... 55. 29 10 gr. 


and sufficient wellwater to bring the whole to ten gallons. 


These proportions of salts, expressed in the Metric system, would be: 


Soditim, chloride 2... 01.6: cee eds 663 grams. 
Magnesium chloride ...........---+-++55 75 
Magnesium sulphate ..........--.-+-455- 50 “ 
Potassium sulphate .............00-00 ee Loe 


Added to 25 litres of wellwater. 


114 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


For chemical reasons the salts should each be dissolved sepa- 
rately and enough water finally added to make ten gallons. Any good 
drinking water will do to mix with, although distilled water is not to be 
recommended because of its total lack of mineral content. Turk’s Island 
salt is evaporated seawater and has been successfully used by the Govern- 
ment at Washington. In mixing this or in preparing the foregoing arti- 
ficial water, the final test for strength should be by hydrometer as previ- 
ously directed. As chemicals vary in strength and in weight owing to 
different degrees of moisture, the hydrometer used in solutions of about 
60° Fahrenheit furnishes the only accurate gauge. 


Newly made artificial marine water ought not be used for several 
days, but be given a little time to ripen. An occasional stirring helps the 
process. 


Cleaning Marine Water. It is desirable to keep the marine aquarium 
crystal-clear, both for the benefit of the inmates and the pleasure of the 
observer. To this end several factors must be borne in mind. Start with 
clear water. Do not overcrowd nor overfeed. Use only subdued light. 
Quickly remove decaying plants, dead mussels, anemones, etc. Occa- 
sionally siphon off the bottom (see page 229) and after setting, pour back 
the clear water or return through filter. Very little loss of water is occa- 
sioned if the dregs are thrown away after water has settled, particularly if 
a tall jar is used. The filter arrangement described on page 233 is very 
desirable for the marine aquarium. The more pretentious establishments 
run the water off into deep filter-beds of fine sand, squirting it back into 
the aquarium under pressure to increase oxygenation. This, next to run- 
ning seawater, is the ideal arrangement, but is out of reach of the ordinary 
mortal. 


Temperature. This matter depends very largely upon the climate 
from which the aquarium inhabitants come. For this reason it is not well 
to mix animals of tropical and temperate zones. Many of the tropical 
fishes come north in summer and can successfully withstand a temperature 
of 62° F., but in the confines of an aquarium they will not prosper in the 
lower temperatures required by the fishes of our own climate. Tropical 
fishes are happy in a temperature ranging from 68° to 75°. Some of them 
can succeed when it is even warmer, but it becomes difficult to satisfac- 
torily oxygenate the water. 


Fishes and other marine animals of the temperate zone prefer a range 
from 55° to 68°. It will be noted that the tropicals and temperates meet 
at 68°, so if the attempt is made to mix them, this is the temperature that 
should be closely adhered to. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 115 


Collecting Specimens. The best places for collecting a miscellane- 
ous assortment of marine animals are the back bays, pools, pockets, 
marshes and small streams where the ocean overflows at high tide and 
recedes from at low. Rocky coasts furnish particularly fertile fields for 
the aquatic hunter, and those of New England offer rich attractions in 
varied and wonderfully beautiful vegetation. Wood’s Hole is a particu- 
larly famed point for all sorts of marine naturalists and collectors. How- 
ever, anybody can go to the beach nearest home and gather material that 
will well repay for the effort. Two persons in bathing suits operating a 
seine 4 by 14 feet (see page 82) will be surprisingly successful right in the 
surf anywhere. As before stated, the little sheltered places, pools around 
breakwaters, piers and rocks should be thoroughly investigated by hand 
and net. As with freshwater, let the collector not be too ambitious for 
numbers. It is better to get a few good specimens home alive and well 
than have a bucketfull of dead and dying. Unfortunately for those inland 
there is nobody at the present time in America making a commercial busi- 
ness of marine collections for the household aquarium. We have reason 
to believe this could soon be developed into a profitable business, such as 
has been done by many in Europe. Germany, with no seacoast of her 
own, has thousands of successful marine aquaria stocked mostly by 
dealers. 

Tropical marine fishes are of dazzling beauty, a fact enthusiastically 
attested by those visiting any of our large American public aquaria, or 
by those so fortunate as to travel in Bermuda. Most of our tropical 
specimens are collected at Bermuda and at Key West, Florida. The 
various kinds of kelp and coral fishes make quarium specimens of such 
bewitching beauty that any attempted word-description of them would 
appear extravagant. Anyone wishing to make a collection of them should 
employ a local fisherman at the collecting point who knows the haunts 
and ways of the fishes, and who understands the danger of sudden tropical 
storms. Such collections should be shipped in a liberal quantity of water 
and artificially aerated by pump or pouring whenever the train is still for 
more than fifteen minutes. On shipboard, new water of the proper 
temperature should be frequently given. 


Stocking the Aquarium. Perhaps we can repeat to advantage that 
it is better to under- than to over-stock the aquarium. This is particularly 
true of the marine aquarium, first, because if we spoil the water by dead 
animals it is some trouble to obtain more, and second, because the crea- 
tures are used to more oxygen in the vast ocean than can be had in a 


crowded aquarium. : 
Particular vigilance needs to be exercised when the animals are first 
introduced, as some of them may not survive the change. 


116 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


It is best to start with some of the more hardy fishes, such as the 
marine killifish, to see whether the aquarium conditions are in proper 
working order. It will be time enough to branch out more elaborately 
after this is proven. The author some years ago received this same 
advice from a leading expert and, although loath to follow it, decided 
that advice worth asking for was worth following. This proved to be of 
value, for the killifish were all dead in a few days, and the same would 
have been true of more valuable specimens. 

Anemones and other creatures attached to rocks should, if possible, 
be placed in the aquarium without detaching. Low forms do better if 
handled with a dipper or spoon. Whether or not mussels are alive can 
be determined by tapping lightly on the shell with a small stick. In 
health the shell will promptly close. Gentle disturbances of the water 
will show whether anemones and other low forms are living, as they will 
respond by slight movements. Care on this point is of vital importance, 
as decomposition is very rapid. 


Sea Horses. Owing to the vastness of the field we cannot here go 
into a detailed list of marine aquarium inhabitants, but we cannot pass 
the subject without special mention of those quaint fishes, Sea Horses 
(Hippocampus). Although appearing like some mythological animal in 
miniature, they are true fish. They make a very striking appearance in 
the aquarium, always attracting great attention. Their tails are prehen- 
sile and are used much the same as a monkey’s, fastening themselves to 
twigs, bits of grass or any small object, ready too let go in a moment, 
swim a short distance and fasten somewhere else or perchance socially 
link tails with another. Their movements through the water might be 
described as being very sedate. Locomotion is produced mainly by a pro- 
pellor-like movement of the dorsal fin, the body being tipped forward at a 
slight angle. Although the movement through the water is not rapid, it 
has the appearance of being accomplished entirely without effort. The 
breeding habits of the Sea Horse are also most peculiar. The female 
develops an intromittent organ as the breeding season approaches, while 
the brood-pouch on the belly of the male becomes thickened and vascular. 
The fishes face each other, the female advances, places one or more eggs 
in the pouch of the male, retreats and repeats until the spawning is 
finished. When the eggs have hatched, the pouch splits slightly and he 
works the young out of it by gently rubbing against a firm surface. The 
young are as perfectly formed as the parents. 

Sea horses feed upon small marine crustacea about equal in size to 
daphnia. Some European aquarians claim to have gotten them to eat 
dried shrimp, but, so far as we are able to learn, nobody in America has 
been successful in this. Although different attempts have been made to 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 117 


induce them to eat daphnia, it has seldom been accomplished. The 
author was fortunate enough to induce Sea Horses to modify their ideas 
on diet, the process taking considerable patience. Daphnia can only live 
about 5 minutes in seawater, so at first they all die while the Sea Horses 
are apparently thinking the matter over. By repeated trials the smaller 
fishes finally started to eat and the larger ones took the hint from the 
smaller. Shrimp will eat the dead daphnia, but if much is left over it 
should be quickly siphoned out or otherwise removed. Sea Horses can, 
no doubt, be brought to living in saltwater of a hydrometer strength of 
1,017, which would probably increase the length of life of daphnia in the 
marine aquarium to 10 minutes or more. As the Sea Horses usually eat 
by reaching out for food while attached by their tails to a piece of sea- 
weed, it is necessary to gently circulate the daphnia through the aquarium 
by the aeration system or other means. 


Fic. 79, Tue Sea Horse (Life size) 
Hippocampus hudsonius 


These strange fishes are of worldwide distribution. On the Atlantic 
Coast they are more plentiful in September than at any other time, when 
they are often brought up clinging to fishermen’s nets. Only one species 
occurs on the Atlantic Coast. This is the one shown in Fig. 79. 


Feeding in Marine Aquaria. Practically all marine animals are 
carnivorous. Chopped oysters, clams, fish, worms, crab meat, scraped 
lean beef and shrimp form the principal articles of diet. Uncooked 
shrimp, shelled and put through the finest meat chopper is excellent and 


118 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


is particularly valuable, as it can be had all winter in the better fish stores. 
Anemones should have small bits of food offered them with forceps 
(shown on page 229), lightly touching their tentacles with the offering. 
Three times a week is often enough to feed these lower forms. 

The fishes may be fed every day or two, according to temperature, 
always remembering that animal food not quickly eaten soon fouls the 
water. 


Diseased Marine Fishes. Very little is known about treating the 
ailments of marine fishes. As salt is the general cure-all for freshwater 
fishes, it has been discovered that less salt is the best general treatment 
for marine fishes that are out of condition. Short trials at hydrometer 
test 1.010 are beneficial, this, of course, being brought about gradually. 
Otherwise we see no reason why animal parasites, injuries, etc., should 
not be treated the same as for freshwater fishes. 


Chapter Ten 


Terraria and Aqua-Terraria 


120 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


TERRARIA 


The terrarium has not as yet aroused any marked degree of interest 
in America, but as we have followed Europe in the cultivation of exotic 
fishes, it is not unlikely that we shall follow their study of exotic amphib- 
ians and other inhabitants of the terrarium and aqua-terrarium. Certainly 
the subject can be made one of absorbing interest, offering special attrac- 
tions to those fond of making their own collections. Unfortunately, even 
in Europe the terrarium itself has not been developed into a thing of 
beauty. Most of the numerous designs shown for sale are stiff and clumsy- 
looking, but this may be largely overcome by artistic planting. Un- 
doubtedly there is still plenty of room for individuality of treatment which 
would give one more the feeling of a bit of Nature brought to the home 
rather than into a miniature prison. 

The variety of animals which may be kept is extremely large and 
many of them are of distinctly attractive appearance. even to the novice 
or outsider. Those of us who have learned to admire the Telescope 
Goldfish should suspend judgment on some of the apparently less attrac- 
tive specimens in the terrarium, for it may be that both standards operate 
on the same general principle, that is, the more hideous, the more admired. 

Aside from the matter of beauty there is a wonderful range for ob- 
servation, study and original research in the terrarium. In looking over 
the European catalogs one is struck with the large number of lizards, frogs, 
newts, turtles, reptiles, etc., which are exported from North America. It 
will be seen therefore that we do not have to leave our own shore to obtain 
good collections. 

Terraria are divided into four natural divisions, according to the 
needs of their occupants: dry-temperate, dry-tropical, moist-temperate, 
and moist-tropical. The differences in these will readily suggest them- 
selves to the mind, being matters mainly of ventilation and artificial heat. 
The sides are usually of glass, one of them, as well as the top, being 
removable in order to work inside or to introduce or take out specimens. 

The dry-temperate terrarium is naturally the simplest in construction, 
the principal requirements being open ventilation and a small drinking 
pool with cement edge and mirror bottom. This seems to be necessary 
to some of the creatures, as they are accustomed to seeing the sky re- 
flected in water and without this they do not at first recognize it as water. 

The moist-temperate form is only slightly ventilated and is supplied 
with a larger water pool, as the animals are usually amphibians. It is 
well to be able to drain this off without removal. 


Fic, 80. Tue Rep Triton (Sperlerpes ruber) 


Fic. 81. Encitosen AQUA-TERRARIUM, AWARDED First Prize By THE TRITON Society 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 123 


ca 


Tropical terraria, whether moist or dry, are heated artificially from 
below, the heating device being concealed in a false bottom. The heat 
may be applied either to a pan of sand or water or used in the form of a 
miniature hot-water heating system as indicated in figure 75 for heating 
tropical aquaria. The pipes are not carried over the top, but through or 
around the bottom. 

The forms of terraria are quite diverse, according to requirements 
or fancy. Quite a number are divided into two halves, one side contain- 
ing a shallow pool with tall bog plants, the other side being for dry ter- 
restrial plants, the two sometimes being connected by a sloping ladder 
over the division, so that the animals may cross at will. The same 
arrangement is further developed into the aqua-terrarium by having the 
moist side in regular aquarium form and filling about two-thirds deep 
with water. Where tree frogs or other climbing animals are kept there 
should be a ladder or other arrangement to enable them to seek varying 
levels at different times, as this desire seems to be an important part of 
their nature. Tree frogs in some parts of the world are better known as 
“weather frogs.” They are kept where they may either remain in water 
or climb to different levels at will, and are regarded as good barometers 
to foretell approaching weather conditions. Undoubtedly the state of the 
atmosphere has something to do with their movements in this respect. 

Terraria for moths and insects usually have three sides of screen 
and one side of glass for clear observation. 


Aqua-terraria may be considered a higher development of terraria, 
since their possibilities are so much enhanced on account of accommodat- 
ing both terrestrial and aquatic animals and plants. One of the most 
interesting kinds is devoted to the observation of aquatic insects. These 
only contain a few inches of water, in which is planted bog plants, so that 
the leaves stand well out of water. Very few of the aquatic insects 
spend their entire lives in the water and some such provision is needed 
for them. It is important that stones or other creeping-out places be 
provided for turtles, frogs, newts and other amphibians, for it is a great 
cruelty to oblige them to remain constantly in the water. 

Quite artistic effects can be obtained in the arrangement and planting 
of the terrarium and the aqua-terrarium. Natural bridges, lakes, water- 
falls, archways, ledges, hollows, cliffs, caves, and other details may be 
used to good purpose, but care should be exercised not to combine the 
incongruous nor introduce objects out of keeping with the general 
scheme. Stones cemented together are capable of good pictorial effects. 
For moist terraria, pumice or other porous stone will be found useful, as 
it retains so much moisture and makes a good foothold for ferns and 
creeping plants. 


124 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


An aqua-terrarium constructed for pictorial effect is made in the 
form of an ordinary aquarium with terrestrial plants arranged in the rear 
corners, thus giving the effect of a complete bit of landscape. The great 
possibilities of this treatment are shown in the illustration on page 122. 
This has the earth in slate containers reaching all the way to the bottom, 
but in a form devised later the soil is in cement pans 6 inches deep which 
are hung by hooks on the top edge of the aquarium proper, thus giving 
more light at the bottom of the aquarium. 


Swamp aquaria have received little attention, although they can be 
made very picturesque, as will be seen in Fig. 82. 


Plants. Most of the plants flourishing in greenhouses will prosper 
in the moist terrarium, so that the selection is very large. The dry ter- 
rarium is much more limited in this respect, the possibilities being con- 
fined practically to cacti, agaves, aloes, houseleeks and certain hardy 
ferns which have come from dry situations. 


Planting. The main point in planting the terrarium is to procure 
proper drainage by the use of pebbles. Plants can be set either directly 
in soil above the pebbles or in pots. Fertilizer may be used in the lower 
part of soil but very sparingly in moist terraria. In planting it is well to 
keep in mind the natural surroundings of the animals and to provide, so 
far as possible, those conditions which are agreeable to their natures. 
For instance, the reptiles like to sun themselves in open, dry spots and in 
planting for them this can easily be arranged. Amphibious animals like 
to secrete themselves and hide from the light at times in thick vegetation, 
a provision easily made in the moist terrarium. These same considera- 
tions will present themselves when it comes to selecting a place for the 
terrarium. The snakes delight to sun themselves for hours, so in plant- 
ing it is well to use only such plants that will stand plenty of direct sun- 
light. Terraria have one important advantage over aquaria in that at 
least the smaller sizes may be shifted from one place to another with very 
little effort, so that light conditions may be changed at will and hours of 
sunshine increased as opportunity offers. 


Occupants for Terraria. The large majority of cold-blooded ani- 
mals of suitable sizes may be introduced. In the moist terrarium the 
principal animals used are young alligators, newts, salamanders, tad- 
poles, frogs, water snakes, turtles, aquatic insects and their larve. For 
the dry terrarium we have tree toads, hop toads, horned toads, beetles, 
spiders, lizards, chameleons, tortoises, snakes, butterflies, moths and other 
insects. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 125 


Feeding in the Terrarium. The different occupants of the terrar- 
ium naturally require a varying range of foods. Those containing cha- 
meleons, frogs, toads, tree toads, do well on flies. It is a good plan to have 
a fly trap which can be emptied into the terrarium. It is quite an amusing 
thing to see the animals waiting for the flys to emerge after they have 
learned that they are fed in this manner. The dexterity with which they 
are caught and eaten is a never-ending marvel. While these animals can 
live on little, they ought to be well fed in warm weather, giving them 


ean ae AO eS 


Hone Ape THE Mt IPA Er teh 


eS SS—= 


Fic. 82 Swamp AQUARIUM 


126 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


once daily all the flies they can consume which will be found to be a 
considerable number. In winter when flies are scarce they may be fed 
on meal worms and meal bugs, which are easily cultivated in bran flour, 
once a small stock is started. Particular care should be taken not to 
allow any of the meal breeding stock to escape into the house, as it is 
liable to become a pest in the kitchen. 

Newts and salamanders are fed on bits of meat, fish, oysters, fish 
eggs and worms. 

Snakes and lizards require large and small insects, worms, small live 
fish and animals. 

Alligators and carnivorous turtles want live fish, tadpoles, crayfish, 
small animals. In the absence of living food they can sometimes be in- 
duced to take chopped oysters, fish, etc. 

Box tortoises and land turtles are largely vegetarians and should be 
supplied with berries, garden vegetables, mushrooms, cooked cereals, 
snails and worms. 

As with the aquarium, particular care should be exercised not to 
allow any excess of food which is liable to decay, all such surplus being 
removed immediately after the feeding hour. 


Chapter Eleven 


Fishfoods 


128 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


PREPARED FISHFOODS 


Nearly all aquarium fishes naturally desire a variety of foods, and the 
nearer we can approximate Nature in this matter, the better will be our 
results. Whatever foods we employ we should always keep in mind the 
necessary balance of vegetable, animal and mineral content required. 
One of the poorest fishfoods obtainable is the white wafer usually sold 
in pet shops and drug stores. Of recent years many better foods have 
been placed on the market, most pet stores keeping at least one of them. 
They are granular in form, usually of a dark color and are composed of 
a mixture of dried insects, meat, fish roe, flour, codfish and other ingre- 
dients. Unless one needs a large quantity of fishfood it is better to pur- 
chase a prepared article of the sort described. 

An extremely good fishfood is puppy biscuit broken up and ground 
in a coffee mill to small sizes. This is cheaper than regular fishfood and 
is very satisfactory. It is used as a base by some manufacturers to add 
a few ingredients to and then place it on the market under their own 


label. 
A food used with considerable success is oatmeal prepared exactly 


as it comes to the breakfast table, containing the same amount of salt. 
This is especially recommended for feeding young fish when daphnia 
have become scarce. The shape of a fish is permanently influenced by its 
body development in the first few months, and different methods of 
feeding produce, to a certain extent, different shapes. The effect of 
oatmeal, fed plentifully, is to build the short, round body so generally 
desired. For fish under ten weeks old the oatmeal should be squeezed 
through cheesecloth to take out the kernels. Let the young fish have as 
much as they can eat all day, but let none remain over night. This does 
not apply to fish in their second year or over, although oatmeal in much 
smaller quantity is good for them also. Large fish may be allowed to 
eat uncooked rolled oats. 

An improvement on boiled oatmeal is secured by adding a moderate 
portion of powdered shrimp, dried fish roe or powdered shredded cod- 
fish. For preparation of these ingredients see page 129. 

A cereal known as Cream of Barley when cooked is a good fish- 
food and may be used in conjunction with oatmeal. 

Dried bread crumbs make good food for goldfishes, especially if 
Graham or whole wheat bread is used. 

In feeding any kind of dried granular food it is best to use small 
sizes. Water causes the grains to swell considerably. This sometimes 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 129 


produces indigestion when the food swells after being swallowed. Many 
fanciers in Germany scald food just before feeding, which is no doubt a 
good practise. 


For those wishing to make a general fishfood suitable for all except 
strictly carnivorous fishes, the following recipe will be found to be very 
good: 

Quarter tumbler powdered cod 

Half tumbler powdered liver 
Three-quarters tumbler powdered shrimp 
Three tumblers flour 

One teaspoonful Epsom salts 

Three teaspoonfuls baking powder 
Three teaspoonfuls powdered chalk 


Add two raw eggs and sufficient water to make the mixture into 
the usual consistency of bread dough. Place in pan and bake in oven. 
When properly baked allow to cool and cut into thin slices. After 
thoroughly drying grind in coffee mill and sift into desired sizes. Keep 
all dry fishfoods well secured in bottles or other actually tight receptacles. 
Moths and other insects gain a foothold and soon turn the food into a 
mass of worms and refuse. 


In above recipe the cod is prepared by purchasing a package of 
shredded cod, drying over slow fire and grinding fine in coffee mill. The 
liver should be parboiled, cut into thin strips, dried and ground. Dried 
shrimp may be had at Chinese grocery stores. It needs to be broken in 
pieces, put through a coarse setting of the mill, then well dried for a few 
days and lastly ground fine. 

Whole wheat flour is preferable to white flour. 

Powdered cuttlebone or eggshell may be used instead of chalk. 

Those desiring to experiment on a food according to their own 
ideas of ingredients and proportions may safely use any of the following 
items, in addition to those already mentioned: Pea flour, rice flour, 
rye flour, vermicelli, boiled fish, boiled yellow of egg, fine corn meal, 
ant eggs, chopped earthworms, water crackers, dried bread, chopped 
meal worms, dried and powdered lettuce leaves, dried fish roe and dried 
daphnia. In preparing the latter two ingredients they should be par- 
boiled with a moderate amount of salt, then placed in cheesecloth; water 
squeezed out, spread out thin on tin plates and dried quickly in the sun 
or slow oven. The drying must be thorough and quick. In drying it 
will be found that the shrinkage in volume will be very great. It should, 
therefore, be remembered that these ingredients are highly concentrated 
and be used accordingly. 


130 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


When fish have been without fresh or living food for some time it is 
well to occasionally give them a small quantity of scraped raw beef 
(scraped crosswise to grain) or the dark, soft part of oysters, chopped 
and slightly rinsed. Fresh shrimp, obtainable in most fish markets in 
Winter, if passed through a fine meat chopper, makes an excellent change 
of diet. 


LIVING FISHFOODS 


Living fishfoods are divided mainly into larve and crustacea, the 
latter on the whole being the more important and the more generally 


Fic. 83. Dapunia (Greatly enlarged) 
Fic. 84. Mosquito Larva (Greatly enlarged) 
Fic. 85. Eco Rart anp Inprivipuat Ecos (Greatly enlarged) 
Fic. 86. Pupa Berore TRANSFORMING To Mosgurto (Greatly enlarged) 
Fic. 87. Cyctops (Greatly enlarged) 
Fic. 88. Cypris (Greatly enlarged) 


obtainable. Those which are of practical value to the breeder of fancy 
aquarium fishes are few in number. Like the insect enemies of fishes, 
four is the number of really important kinds. 


Daphnia. Undoubtedly the best food for aquarium fishes is living 
daphnia and this should be used at all times in preference to prepared 
foods if obtainable. The fish will consume great quantities of these 
crustaceans without suffering the usual effects of being overfed. A 
certain degree of care must be exercised not to place so much daphnia 
into the aquarium as to suffocate the fish. Daphnia breathe the free 
oxygen in water the same as do fish and therefore too many will soon 
exhaust oxygen from water. The fish will die of suffocation sooner than 
the daphnia. Many fanciers have lost fish in this way. A good practise 
is to give the fish all they can eat in about a quarter of an hour and still 
leave some few daphnia swimming about. 

A popular name for daphnia is “ditch fleas.” This will give a key to 
their appearance, as they are approximately the size and shape of a flea, 
except that they have two rather long, branched swimming arms which 
are always in motion and which gives the animal a sort of hopping 
motion through the water. Without this perpetual swimming the daphnia 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 131 


would sink to the bottom, as they are heavier than water and have no 
air bladder. A greatly magnified illustration is shown in Fig. 83. 
Daphnia (incorrectly pronounced “daffney”) are known among fish 
breeders as “insects,” but they are really not such, being perfect fresh- 
water crustaceans as much as a crayfish. The shell though soft contains 
mineral elements which are very desirable, while the flesh itself is easily 
digested and nutritious. This little creature is found nearly all over the 
world, principally in still pools where there are no fish. For the practical 
purpose of catching daphnia in sufficient quantities to feed fish the 
collector should hunt pools in which there is considerable animal or vege- 
table decomposition in process. This decomposition favors the growth 
of infusoria, small members of the animal kingdom on which daphnia 
feed. Such conditions are found to perfection in the pools on the 
grounds where city refuse is dumped. When the conditions are favor- 
able the daphnia rise to the surface in such quantities as to color the 
water, the usual color being a rusty red. The color varies from this to 
olive and gray. Fish breeders like to see the daphnia as bright a red as 
possible, although it is an open question as to whether the red ones are 
better food. The same individuals will alternate in color, probably due 
to a difference in food. Usually these crustaceans are not so plentiful 
as to color the water and we have to use our eyes more closely to locate 
them. The collector should provide himself with a cheesecloth net about 
12 inches in diameter and 15 inches deep, fastened on a pole or jointed 
handle not less than 6 feet long. If an examination of the water does 
not at first reveal any daphnia, the net should be tried anyhow, using a 
gentle stirring motion back and forth, to stir up the bottom water. 
Daphnia have very peculiar habits and one can never tell from day to 
day just how they are to be found, so that the collector will always have 
to depend somewhat on his own resources. If an examination of the net 
after dipping for a few minutes shows nothing, try elsewhere. If a 
colony has been located do not take too many into the net at one time, 
as the weight of the top ones crushes those beneath. A mass that would 
bulk about equivalent to an orange should not be exceeded. Reverse 
the net into carrying pail and repeat until the water is thick with daphnia. 
In cool weather the pail may be carried in this crowded condition for 
about an hour. If the day is hot, a piece of ice should be added to the 
water—enough to keep temperature down until home is reached. News- 
paper wrapped about the can helps the ice melt more slowly. As soon 
as home is reached, add fresh water to the pail and transfer the daphnia 
to tubs or tanks kept for the purpose. Like fish, the water they are in 
should have as much air surface as possible. Do not try to keep too 
many in stock, as overcrowding suffocates a number and these in turn 
decomposing kill the living ones. The cooler they are kept, the longer 


132 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


they will last. In hot weather they can be kept about three days and in 
October about two weeks. 


A method of carrying live food which is growing in favor is to crate 
them (without water) in layers in a box. Frames about 10 x 12 inches, 
made of 7£-inch square wood, are covered on one side with cheesecloth. 
These are floated in the water, the daphnia dropped in, spread out evenly 
and placed in carrying box which, of course, needs to be airtight. The 
number of layers are only limited by the depth of the box. Daphnia may 
be spread to a depth of about 4 inch, but mosquito larve may be piled to 
¥Y inch without injury. 

In transferring from carrying pails to stock tanks it is well to first 
pour in small portions to a white enamel basin which enables one to 
carefully go over the catch and remove any insect enemies. (See page 
156.) If the daphnia are too thick to be readily examined, some water 
should be added. A little care in keeping out the enemies at the start is 
energy well invested. Most of the enemies and the dirt may be sifted 
out (under water) by using a screen just large enough for the daphnia to 
pass through. 

A beginner will do well to make the acquaintance of an experienced 
daphnia collector and go along with him on a trip. There are now 
aquarium societies in many of the large cities, part of their activities 
being the dissemination of such knowledge. All those interested in 
aquaria should have either active or corresponding membership in one 
of these organizations. If return stamps are enclosed the publishers of 
this work will always be glad to put the beginner in touch with the 
nearest society. 

All beginners seem to have the idea that sufficient daphnia can be 
raised in a tub or trough to feed with. This has been tried many times 
but never with any degree of success. If the daphnia pools are too far 
distant to make collecting practicable it is best to try to inoculate some 
suitable pond nearby, but there should be no fish in the pond. Daphnia 
if not crowded may be shipped quite a distance. There are several Phil- 
adelphia collectors constantly making shipments in season. 

The practical way to raise daphnia for food purposes is described 
in the chapter on Wholesale Breeding (page 62). 


Cyclops. Wherever Daphnia are found, Cyclops is pretty sure to be, 
and also in a great many places where the former does not exist. They 
are crustacea of about the same size and color as Daphnia, but under 
close examination are of entirely different structure and also of different 
action, going rapidly through the water in straight lines with a jumping 
movement. Like Daphnia they are divided into many species and are 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 133 


practically worldwide in distribution. The two tabs seen near the lower 
portion of the illustration are the egg-pouches of the female. These 
develop in warm weather every two days, become detached and fall to 
the bottom with 16 to 32 eggs which arrive at maturity in 30 days. They 
are called Cyclops because, like the giant of mythology, they have but 
one eye. 


Mosquito Larve. These are often known as wrigglers and are 
familiar to those who have looked in rain barrels. Their bodies are 
straight and about a quarter of an inch long. They rest at an angle to 
the surface of the water as shown in Fig. 84, with head down, and are 
always ready to “wriggle” to the bottom at the first sign of danger. 
From midsummer on they may be found in still water where there are 
no fish. They are taken in the same manner as daphnia, except that 
one has to get them with a quick sweep before they can get down into 
the water. They can usually be seen floating together in black masses. 
The city entomologist anywhere will give information as to where they 
may be obtained and will be glad to have his burdens lightened by the 
fish breeder. 


Mosquito Larve may be termed a special food. It can only be 
had in large quantities towards the middle and end of Summer, and is 
only suited to the fish large enough to easily swallow it. As a food for 
putting growth on fish an inch long or over it has no equal. The main 
drawback to these larve is that those not eaten quickly by the fish are 
liable to turn to mosquitoes. This difficulty can be discounted by proper 
management. Keep the stock of larve in a tank covered by a sheet of 
glass, leaving about two inches at one end not covered. Over this open 
space place a piece of mosquito netting, drawing it up several inches 
over the opening into a sort of inverted bag. Then draw a string 
around top edge of tank to fasten netting down. As the mosquitoes 
hatch they will fly upward into the netting bag, where they may be killed 
before lifting the lid to get larvee for the fish. The larvae should be kept 
out of the sun and as cool as possible so as to retard hatching. They will 
stand great crowding, their only requirement being that there is room 
for them all to get to the surface at one time, for they breathe air. This 
is one advantage in placing larve with fish, for, unlike daphnia, they 
extract no oxygen from the water. By feeding them to the fish we not 
only do well for the fish, but serve the interests of humanity by cutting 
down the mosquito pest. In open pools goldfishes are one of the best 
agents in keeping the neighborhood free of mosquitoes. Unfortunately 
the mosquito larve can live and hatch in temporary pools and in water 
too foul for any fish to survive in. 


134 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Cypris. Incorrectly known as “hardshell daphnia,” Cypris forms an 
important article of fish diet. These crustacea inhabit stagnant pools, 
particularly those well stocked with decomposing vegetal matter. Al- 
though capable of swimming freely they are more apt to remain close to 
the bottom, but more especially to decaying wood. They are of a dull, 
purplish black color about twice the size of an ordinary pin-head. Inex- 
perienced observers frequently mistake them for Daphnia. Fishes do not 
appear to be quite so fond of them as of Daphnia but they are a good 
second choice. They are extremely hardy and will withstand dense 
overcrowding in the foulest of water. Under favorable conditions Cypris 
multiplies with astounding rapidity. They have been known to attack 
newly hatched fishes. 


Blood Worms. In freshwater pools nearly everywhere can be found 
deep-red, jointed worms about half an inch long. See figure 89. 
They usually stay at the bottom, living chiefly on decomposing vegetal 
matter. Often they will writhe their way awkwardly through the water in 


Fic. 89. Biroopworm (Larva of Chironomus) (Enlarged four times) 


a series of figure eights. They are the larve of midges and form an 
important article of diet for our native fishes. They are often found in 
large numbers in daphnia pools and should always be taken when possible. 
If too large for the young fish, they make choice morsels for the older ones. 


Tubifex Worms. These are small thread-like worms living in mud 
and sand. They form a tube or case below the surface, extending the 
upper ends of their bodies from this in search of small organic food, 
causing a circulation of water about themselves by a constant weaving 


' ¢ \ (AN 


Fic, 90. Tusirex Worms MAGNIFIED AND as THE Enps*Appear ABOVE THE BoTTOM 


motion. When alarmed they draw back into the case. They are exten- 
sively cultivated in Europe as a food for tropical fishes. A similar variety 
is often introduced into goldfish aquaria when feeding daphnia, where 
they become an unsightly nuisance, for goldfishes do not eat them. To 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 135 


get rid of them it is necessary to boil or renew the sand or else keep other 
fishes in the aquarium for a long time. The worms have to be eaten off 
many times before the stock dies. Germicides strong enough to kill them 
will also destroy the plants, as they can withdraw into the sand. Along 
the edges of ditches they are often so numerous as to make a solid rusty 
red color. If they are scraped up together with the dirt and then washed 
free they are greatly enjoyed by small tropical fishes. 


Fairy Shrimp (Gammarus). While freshwater shrimp is not plenti- 
ful enough anywhere to feed in large quantities, it is a delicate morsel for 
grown fishes and should be taken as opportunity offers. They are found 
principally in small streams, under stones and around decaying wood. 


Placed in a large aquarium or tank with plenty of vegetation they will 
multiply rapidly. 


Fic. 91. Farry Surimp (Enlarged 3 times) 
Fic. 92. Water-AseL (Enlarged 3 times) 


Water-Asel (Asellopus) is found in still or slowly moving water, 
usually in the mud or clinging to vegetation. It cannot move rapidly 
like Fairy Shrimp, but both are enemies of very small fry and both are 
greedily taken as food by larger aquarium fishes, although the shrimp 
move so rapidly that highly developed fishes have trouble in catching 


them. erge 


Fic. 93 Fic. 94 : 
Asplanchnopus myrmelco Pterodina patina Noteus quadracornis 


Taree TypicaL Rotiriers (Greatly magnified) 


Infusoria and Rotifera. Of prime importance as food for very small 
fishes are the Infusoria and other microscopic creatures of still water. 
Some idea of their minuteness may be had when it is pointed out that 
they are the natural food of Daphnia, Cyclops and other small crustaceans. 
All except the very largest of the infusorians will pass through ordinary 
cheesecloth nets, but silk bolting-cloth of fine texture will hold those 


136 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


which are large enough to be of real use. Further information on this 
point is contained on page 140. Other infusoria are shown in Fig. 96. 


Enchytrae. These are thread-like small white worms usually bred in 
winter as a substitute for daphnia for feeding to tropical fishes. Gold- 
fishes are also very fond of them, but it is a difficult matter to cultivate a 
sufficiently large quantity to satisfy the appetite of several goldfish. For 
some of the smaller fishes requiring living food they are almost indispen- 
sable in winter. 

The culture of these worms is quite easy and requires very little 
attention after the start is made. Many of the dealers and fanciers in 
New York and vicinity have a stock of enchytrae, from whom a stock 
can be procured. These are placed in ordinary garden soil from which 
all worms and larvae have been carefully removed. Wooden or earthen- 
ware boxes about 15 inches long, 7 inches wide and six inches deep may 
be filled with the earth to a depth of 4 inches. A cover glass must be 
provided, this setting directly on the soil. Proper feeding is the principal 
keynote to success. They like milk, white bread, boiled potato, cheese 
rinds, etc. In a box of this size, four or five small holes are dug out 
with a spoon, the food placed therein and the earth replaced. This is 
done as often as the food is consumed and in three or four weeks the 
harvest of worms will be ready. Care should be taken not to overfeed, 
as this will sour the soil. The soil should be removed from the box about 
every two weeks, broken up, loosened and returned. This is considerably 
facilitated if about half the soil is composed of leaf mold. The breeding 
box does best in an average temperature of about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. 

The worms are separated from the earth in a number of ways. If 
but a few are desired the simplest way is to remove two or three spoons 
full of soil and place same in water just deep enough to cover. Ina very 
short time the worms will come out of the soil and entangle themselves 
in a bunch near the surface of the water, when they may easily be 
collected. 

Another much quicker method is to take a piece of cardboard (the 
cover of a shoe-box answers nicely) spreading a quantity of soil thereon 
and holding over a heat; this soon causes the worms to crawl to the top 
of the earth, from which they are removed. However, great care must 
be exercised that they are not injured by the heat, which would destroy 
them, for the fish prefer the live worms at all times. As soon as they 
appear and bunch on the surface of the earth, the heat should be removed. 

Another method of separating the worms from soil is to place a por- 
tion of the earth in an enameled dish, pouring sufficient water over same 
to cover and placing thereupon a sheet of glass, which should rest above 
and free from the moist earth. Because this will prevent sufficient 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 137 


oxygen from penetrating the dirt or water, the Enchytrae will promptly 
leave the soil, crawl up the sides of the dish and on the underside of the 
glass cover, clinging to same in a variety of entanglements. The cover 
can then be removed and the worms washed or scraped off and fed to the 
fish. This of course is a slow process, but by preparing an hour or so 
before it is desired to obtain same, an ample supply may be procured. 

It is not advisable to feed all of the worms thus obtained as when a 
considerable number are placed in a tank at a single time, some are bound 
to escape from the bunch and, burying themselves in the gravel or sand, 
die and pollute the water. It is said that they can exist under water for 
about forty-eight hours and it has been noted that the larger specimens 
are usually the first to succumb. 

Still another way to remove them from the soil is to take a section 
of blotting paper, placing the earth on it, and in a short time it will be 
noticed that they will have gathered in a ring around the outer edge of the 
soil, free from the dirt. 


Chapter Twelve 
The Microscope 


In Aquarium Work 


140 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


THE MICROSCOPE IN AQUARIUM WORK 


Aquarium work in general and fish breeding in particular can be 
made both more interesting and more successful by the use of a micro- 
scope. For most purposes a very cheap instrument is satisfactory. In 
fact, a low power lens is preferable to a high in examining water for 
infusorian food. 

All aquaria contain various beautiful and highly interesting forms of 
microscopic life, some harmful, some negative, but mostly beneficial to 
fishes. The constant changing of varieties and quantities presents a vast 
field for new study, but we are here mostly concerned with the practical 
points of raising young fish. On page 135 we refer to the use of infusoria 
as food for young fish. To determine the presence of this food, touch 
the tip of the finger lightly to the surface of the water, preferably to the 
side nearest the source of light. This is because they are mostly at the 
surface and they seek the light. Place this drop on a glass slide and 
observe under a good magnifying glass or a low power microscope. The 
latter is rather preferable, as the focus can be changed as required, and 
it is fitted with a mirror to facilitate observation. In the absence of a 
microscope the small pocket folding lens known as a “thread counter” 
will do. This costs about twenty-five cents. In using this the frame of 
the counter should be laid directly on the glass containing the drop of 
water, and the whole placed over a mirror held at the proper angle to 
reflect light upwards, but too strong a light should not be used. A little 
experimenting will soon show the best light to work by. 

The creatures which are of value as food to newly hatched fishes are 
generally of a size just too small to be detected by the naked eye, or at 
most they look like specks of dust. At the same time they are plainly 
observable under a good magnifying glass or low-power microscope. 
There is a great deal of life in the water of a smaller size than will be 
shown in this way and which probably has no food value to fishes. The 
high-power microscope would show many of these organisms and thus 
be apt to deceive the observer as to the actual food value contained in 
the water. Also with high magnification the field of vision and the area 
of sharp focus are smaller, while movements are apparently much more 
rapid, making observation difficult. 

The majority of the valuable organisms are rotifers. These move 
in a steady, revolving or rotating manner. On page 57 will be found 
instructions for propagating these organisms for purposes of feeding 
young fish. Most rotifers can be readily identified as such because they 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 141 


swim through the water. by means of circlets of hairs or cilia arising 
from the front of their heads, by the vibratile action of which they 
swim and disport themselves through the water. In fact, rotifers derive 
their name from the wheel-like appearance produced by the motion of 
the circlets of cilia while feeding and swimming. For culture water to 
have practical food value a single drop should contain at least half a 
dozen living objects that can be seen in the manner suggested. Water 
rich in life will show rotifers so thickly that they almost touch one 
another—probably two hundred in a small drop. In taking water from 
the culture tank to feed the fish it should be ‘skimmed from the surface, 


Fic. 96. Common Forms or Microscopic ANIMAL LIFE IN FRESHWATER 
(Greatly magnified) 


1. Loxopes, a very common form. 

2. CERATIUM, a very common form, especially in ponds and lakes. 
3. PARAMAECIUM, a very common form, the slipper animalcule. 
4. Bursaria, a very common form, one of the largest. 

5. STYLONYCHA, a very common form, found everywhere. 

6. PHAcUS, not so common as the above numbers. 

7. SPIROSTOMUM, common everywhere. 

8. EucLena, common everywhere. 

9. CHILODON, common everywhere. 

10. TRACHELOCERCA, common everywhere, the swan animalcule. 
11. Evpototes, not an aquarium in America without examples. 
12. Dipin1um, predacous, feeds on paramaecium and others. 
13. TRACHELOCERCA, small but plentiful. 

14. Coteps, the barrel animalcule, common. 


142 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


or the animals extracted from the water by a plankton net, which is 
nothing more than a small net of the finest bolting cloth. 

Besides the examination of water for living food there are many 
other interesting possibilities for the microscope in aquarium work. 
Diseases, the development of eggs, plant structure, algae, the structure 
of daphnia, cyclops and other crustacean foods are a few of the sub- 
jects which may be taken up with profitable interest. 

A study of the microscopic world within the aquarium will prove a 
most fascinating pursuit. Good microscopes for the purpose can be 
purchased very cheaply now compared with former prices. An instru- 
ment equipped with a 24 m. m. (1 inch) objective and a times 5 or 6 
eyepiece will show everything needed, giving a magnification of 60 
diameters. 

Those wishing to explore this field a little further will find the 
following works to be helpful: “Aquatic Microscopy for Beginners,” 
by Stokes; “Marvels of Pond Life,” by Slack; “Evenings at the Micro- 
scope,” by Gosse. 


Chapter Thirteen 


Diseases of Aquarium Fishes 


and Their Treatment 


144 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


DISEASES AND AILMENTS OF AQUARIUM FISHES AND 
THEIR TREATMENT 


Even in a state of Nature fishes are sometimes attacked by disease 
and parasitic enemies. It is little wonder, then, that aquarium fishes, 
weakened by inbreeding and kept under artificial conditions should be 
subject to a number of maladies. The wonder is that the majority of the 
diseases can be so successfully treated, under the circumstances. 

Half the battle is won by taking the trouble in time. The aquarist 
should always be on the alert to detect when his pets are a little out of 
condition. As elsewhere stated, this is shown by listless movements, loss 
of appetite, drooping dorsal fin (when the fish is in the habit of holding it 
erect), congested or frayed fins, white slime on body and bubbles in excre- 
ment. When a fish is even suspected of being in doubtful condition it 
should be observed carefully for a day or two, and, if improvement is 
not noted, given the required treatment—prompilly. 

Affected fishes should be immediately removed from their fellows. 
There is always the possibility that they are suffering fram a contagious 
disease which may quickly spread. Great care should be exercised not 
to use the same nets in handling sick and well fishes unless they are steril- 
ized after exposure to disease germs. 


Salt Treatment. In Nature the sick fish seeks brackish water or 
saline earths, and we cannot do better than to follow this hint. Most of 
the disease-producing bacteria of fresh water are unable to live in mod- 
erate salt solutions. The point, then, is to find the strength of solution that 
will kill the bacteria without injuring he fish. As the salt treatment 
is the main one for curable diseases, we shall go into this at some length. 


Kinp oF SALT. Ordinary table salt is likely to contain chemicals to 
prevent caking in damp weather. These are injurious to fishes. How- 
ever, if no other salt is obtainable, this can be made to do. The very best 
medicine is real sea water, properly diluted. The next best is Turk’s 
Island salt, which is the residue from evaporated sea water. Where the 
fish shows a tendency to constipation, one-quarter of the salt content may 
be Epsom salts. Some writers recommend this addition in all cases. 


Strength of Salt Solution. Common practice among the unin- 
formed is to throw a sick fish into a strong brine solution, leaving it there 
a few minutes until it shows signs of expiring. This treatment is usually 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 145 


better than none at all, but is unnecessarily severe and is not so successful 
as milder solutions. In fact, the strong salt takes the protective slime off 
the fish and leaves it in a condition where it is liable to be quickly again 
infected, and in a weakened condition where treatment is not likely to 
again be effectual. The usual practice of the author is to make a solution 
in which salt is just easily discernable to the taste. As the sense of taste 
varies in individuals, this is not a very accurate rule to give others. A 
suitable proportion is one ounce of salt (approximately two heaping tea- 
spoonfuls) to each gallon of water. 


Methods of Treatment. Nearly all sick fishes do best in shallow 
water and out of bright light. An enamel tray four inches deep by twenty 
inches square is very good, or a well-seasoned tub filled to a few inches 
is suitable. In placing the patient in the medicated water, see that there 
is no considerable change in temperature. In warm weather a change to 
very slightly cooler water is stimulating and probably does no harm. 
Except for the air-breathing species (Paradise fish, etc.) a change to 
several degrees warmer water is liable to produce suffocation, warm water 
holding less free oxygen than cool. Aquarium fishes can live indefinitely 
in the solution described, but in two days a salt solution begins to smell 
stale and needs to be changed. A daily change is better. Should the 
patient not show signs of improvement in four days, gradually increase 
the strength of salt solution for two or three days until it is up to two 
ounces (four heaping teaspoonfuls) to each gallon of water. After 
remaining in this for two days the salt proportion is slowly weakened 
down again to the first formula. 


Ammonia Treatment. A, popular treatment among European fish 
culturists for fungoid diseases is the ammonia method. This has not been 
generally accepted in the United States, but has been tried with remark- 
able success in some instances where other treatments have failed. We 
feel, however, that it should only be tried as a last resort. To one gallon 
of clean water add ten drops of ordinary household ammonia. (Unfor- 
tunately, this varies somewhat in strength.) Place the fish in this for five 
minutes, but take out sooner, should it turn over. Remove to plain water 
and then back to its tank. The treatment may be repeated at intervals 
of three days if necessary. 


Special Attention. All fish should, if possible, be placed, after any 
chemical treatment, in a healthy tank containing green water. Sometimes 
this is, indeed, the only treatment required. 

Another very good after-treatment which may be used in summer is 
to place the hospital tank under a small stream or drip. In making the 


146 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


final change from salt back to fresh water, this is a very good way to 
accomplish it. Dripping water may do all that is necessary, especially if 
a fish is only on the doubtful line, which is more often the case than not. 

Summer offers one more treatment when all others fail—place the 
affected fish in a shallow mud-bottom tank or pool. This is especially 
beneficial to goldfishes. 

In winter when a skilled aquarist finds a fish a little out of condition, 
but with apparently nothing radically wrong, his first treatment is to 
remove the fish to another tank if he has one available. This often has 
the stimulating effect of a change of climate and usually wards off more 
serious trouble that might be developing. As with ourselves and all 
animals, it is much better to cure an ailment, if possible, by improved 
conditions, rather than by recourse to drugs or chemicals. 

In treating sick goldfishes it is important to give some attention 
to temperature, especially in winter. Best results can be had at about 68°, 
which is a little warmer than fishes are usually kept in the cool season. 

Another point to bear in mind for those having air-pumps, is that 
in the majority of ailments a cure is accelerated by a gentle flow of air 
liberated in the hospital tank, but not agitating the water enough to worry 
the fish. If no pump is at hand an occasional spraying is of value. 

The foregoing is general in character but will be found useful in 
most of the diseases that can be cured. We will now deal specifically 
with the diseases and ailments. 


Fin Congestion. This is the commonest of all fish troubles, and is 
especially liable to attack the highly developed fins of fancy goldfishes. 
Their long fins are no doubt deficient in circulation, causing low powers 
of resistance. As soon as the fish is slightly indisposed through over- 
feeding, sudden chill, protracted low temperature or other causes, fin 
congestion is ustially the first symptom. The fins of fancy goldfishes 
may be considered very good barometers of the condition of the fish. 
The appearance produced is well indicated by the name. The fins are 
more or less red and streaked with veins. In advanced cases the fins 
commence to split and fray, particularly the tails. 


TREATMENT. Fin congestion, as well as being the commonest of gold- 
fish diseases, is also the most easily cured. The salt-water treatment 
described on page 144 is without a superior. When the trouble is con- 
fined to the tail, it may be dipped in a 10-per cent. solution of peroxide 
of hydrogen. Another method is to paint the fish with coal oil, keeping 
the head and gills wrapped in a moist cloth. Usually lighter feeding and 
plenty of room in fresh water will be all that is necessary if taken in time. 
Two grains of permanganate of potash to the gallon of water is a suc- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 147 


cessful treatment. It is best to use this in an enamel or a glass receptacle. 
Organic substances, such as wood or floating particles of dirt, quickly 
decompose the chemical. The fish may be given the treatment several 
hours at a time, but a fresh solution should be made daily. 

An entirely different kind of fin congestion is sometimes prevalent in 
the Fall, especially when the fishes are first taken in, young fishes being 
more liable to attacks. The base of the tail and other fins becomes sud- 
denly blood-red, the color sometimes extending to the body immediately 
adjoining. If allowed to continue this form of the disease is rapidly dis- 
astrous. Fortunately, it yields with surprising quickness to either salt 
water or permanganate of potash treatment. When alternatives to salt- 
water treatment are suggested, the fancier will certainly be on the safe 
side by giving the salt the first trial, particularly if carefully followed out 
as we have directed. 


White Fungus. This is next to the most common disease among 
goldfishes, and is responsible for the majority of deaths, except among 
very young fry. It begins on the tail and other fins, extending over the 
body and into the gills. When it reaches this stage it is usually fatal. 


Fic. 97. Fish AFrecTep WITH WHITE FuNcus 
This illustration is characteristic of sick fishes in general. The fins are folded 
and drawn together and the general appearance is one of listlessness. 


The progress of the disease is marked by the development of a white scum 
which destroys the fins, prevents the natural functions of the skin, and 
when the parasite enters the gills causes death by suffocation. The latter 
stage is not always reached, the fish often becoming so emaciated as to die 
in the second stage of the malady. The bacteria causing this disease are 
present in virtually all water, but can make no inroads on a fish in good 
condition. A weakened fish once infected will breed so many bacteria that 


148 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


they can successfully attack the remaining well fish. White fungus, there- 
fore, is contagious, and the sufferer should be removed from its fellows 
at once. This disease is caused by overcrowding, overfeeding, lack of 
proper plant life, transferring to water of different temperature and by 
bruises in shipment. 

TREATMENT. Fishes suffering from white fungus should be treated 
exactly the same as those having fin congestion. If the fins have become 
very much frayed and it is necessary to trim them, this can best be done 
by a sharp knife, using a board to cut on. Scissors make a very poor 
result. It is well to treat the new cut edges with a permanganate solution 
of one grain to a glass of water. By grain we of course always mean 
a certain quantity of weight, and not simply a small particle. 

Sometimes raw spots are left after the fungus has been removed. 
These or similar spots from other causes can be greatly helped by the fol- 
lowing method: Wrap the head and gills of the fish in a moist rag, dry 
the affected spot and apply some Turlington’s Balsam with a small piece 
of absorbent cotton. Allow to dry for three or four minutes. This will 
not endanger the life of the fish so long as the gills are kept moist. 


Black Fungus. Many have supposed this disease to be invariably 
fatal, but this is not the case. If taken in time, the majority of cases can 
be cured. The great trouble is that the fish is in a run-down condition 
before contracting the disease and has little power to withstand the 
necessarily severe treatment. This disease manifests itself more on the 
body than the fins, at first presenting a dark gray appearance, later turning 
black and peeling off, leaving raw spots. A common place for the first 
appearance is the center of the gill plates, and also on the sides of the 
fish where they would be most likely to rub, for the parasites are conveyed 
principally by contact. The Protozoans causing this serious complaint are 
animal parasites which soon lodge themselves so deeply in the skin of the 
fish as to make treatment difficult. If they get into the gills the case is 
considered hopeless. 


TREATMENT. Start at once on the increasing salt method described 
on page 144, only carrying it further. Over a period of from three to four 
days the strength of solution should be carried to two and one-half ounces 
to the gallon. Goldfishes can stand a great deal of salt if brought to it 
gradually. As before noted, the strength should be slowly reduced before 
returning to normal water. (The same is true of most other aquarium 
fishes.) After the maximum strength of solution is reached the fish 
should be pencilled on the affected spots with a 50 per cent. solution of 
peroxide of hydrogen for a few moments (being careful not to slop over 
on the healthy parts). The next day the spots may be treated with 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 149 


Turlington’s Balsam as described for White Fungus. Feed on good 
nutritious substances, such as daphnia or chopped earthworms. If the 
fish seems to be standing it satisfactorily, keep in the strong salt for about 
one week, changing the water daily and relying on accurate measurements 
for salt quantities. A progressive permanganate of potassium treatment 
may also be used, but should not be continued as long, five days being 
about the maximum for a fish in poor condition. Start at one grain to 
the gallon and go up to three. With this chemical there is no need of 
gradually reducing the strength, but a new solution should be mixed daily, 
and twice daily is better, always remembering not to change temperature 
of water. Happily Black Fungus is not as prevalent as formerly, owing 
probably to the fact that we now have many more American wholesale 
breeders, thus doing away with the necessity of purchasing so many fishes 
that are in a thoroughly bad condition from hard trips across the Pacific 
Ocean, and shorter but equally hard travels across the American Continent. 


Itch. The itch is one of the more common complaints in the aqua- 
rium. The fishes are observed to quickly rub their sides against the firmer 
objects in the aquarium, often against pebbles on the bottom. The affec- 
tion is caused by different fish parasites. 

TREATMENT. Although this trouble is caused by different organisms, 
they all yield to the progressive salt treatment (page 144). The aquarium 
should be cleaned out before fish are returned, and care exercised! to keep 
it in a cleaner condition, paying particular attention to seeing that no 
uneaten particles of food are left lying about. The introduction of more 
snails and a small Weatherfish or two (see page 13) will help to avoid 
a recurrence. It is not improbable that mussels consume a large number 
of suspended parasites and bacteria of various kinds. 


Constipation. Among the highly-bred, short-bodied fishes, constipa- 
tion, as well as other mechanical disorders, is naturally common. The 
much shortened bodies throw the internal organs out of position, give rise 
to swimming bladder troubles and tie up the muscles which must dis- 
charge eggs and also the excrement of the fishes. Lack of proper exercise 
in the cramped confines of the aquarium and too highly concentrated foods 
are other causes leading to constipation. The excrement should be of a 
brown color and free from bubbles or any slimy appearance. In health 
it usually is seen in long sections. 

TREATMENT. An equal mixture of sea salt and Epsom salts, made 
to a strength of one ounce of salts to the gallon, will usually prove bene- 
ficial. It is better not to feed the fish during the period of treatment— 
about two days. The trouble may be due to overfeeding, and in any case 
a short fast will probably do good. 


150 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Goldfishes readily eat Epsom salts. A pinch dropped in the aqua- 
rium once weekly is beneficial to the fishes, and at the same time replaces 
some of the mineral content of the water depleted by the plants and fishes 
drawing constantly upon it for the chemicals necessary to sustain life. 
This practice has a tendency to prevent constipation. 

Chopped earthworms will be found a mild laxative. In severe cases 
some fanciers place a drop of castor oil well down the throat of the fish 
by means of a dropper. The author has never been convinced that the 
fish swallows any medication administered in this way, but it does no 
harm to try, and may do good. 


Tailrot. This disease first affects the end of the tail and other fins; 
the appearance is one of being frayed and split. If allowed to continue 
until the base of the tail is affected, the fish will die. Taken in time the 
trouble is easily corrected. It must not be supposed that every case of 
split and ragged tails is one of tailrot. This is often a manifestation of a 
generally run-down condition, and in addition to the regular treatment 
for tailrot, also requires a general building-up under improved environ- 
ment. 

TREATMENT. The same treatment as that for white fungus is indi- 
cated. Dipping the tail in a 10% solution of peroxide of hydrogen is bene- 
ficial. Should the ends be hopelessly frayed, they may be eaten off by a 
50% peroxide solution. On returning to the water the treated parts will 
be full of bubbles and will slough off in a few days, leaving a less sharp 
line than when cut with a knife. 


Consumption. It is doubtful whether this is a real form of tubercu- 
losis, but the wasted appearance of the suffering fish is such as to suggest 
it. The body becomes thin and so shrunken that the head appears to stand 
out from the body. Listlessness and loss of appetite are accompanying 
symptoms. 

TREATMENT. This trouble seems to be deeply seated and is difficult 
to treat successfully. Unless the fish is a particularly valued one, it had 
best be destroyed. Place fish in an ample supply of green water or fresh 
water containing }4 ounce of sea salt to the gallon. Feed well on daphnia, 
chopped earthworms and soft bits of oyster. Unless living daphnia can 
be secured, a cure is scarcely worth attempting. Placing fish in a shallow 
muddy pond or tank may be beneficial. 


Dropsy. The cause for this distressing complaint is not known, but 
it is considered to be due to a disordered liver. It is more apt to attack 
fancy fishes, and does so without apparent reference to the general health 
of the individual or the conditions under which it is kept. The manifesta- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 151 


tions are a swelling of the body and the scales standing out at an angle, 
producing a ruffled appearance. 

TREATMENT. No cure is known for dropsy in fishes. They have been 
known to improve in an outdoor pool in summer, but on the approach of 
cool weather the symptoms returned with increased severity, death follow- 
ing as usual. There is a current belief that a few drops of digitalis in the 
water sometimes effects a cure. The author has never been able to verify 
a single such case. If the fish is valuable, its life may be prolonged by 
“tapping” it. This is done by inserting a fine needle beneath the skin, 
holding needle nearly flat to the body so that it again emerges in about a 
quarter inch. After repeating this at a number of points, enough liquid 
can be drawn off to relieve the fish, whose health and spirits do not seem 
to be particularly affected until shortly before death. The operation can 
be repeated when necessary. 


Swimming Bladder Trouble. As before stated, highly bred, short 
bodied fishes are the more susceptible to this not uncommon disorder. 
Sometimes the victims are unable to rise from the bottom except by a 
violent effort, or again they may lie at the top of water at an angle, or even 
upside down. Scaleless varieties are the more susceptible, particularly the 
light colors. Reduced temperatures, even when brought about slowly, are 
responsible for most cases. 

TREATMENT. No cure for swimming bladder trouble is known, but it 
is sometimes relieved by placing in very shallow, slightly salt warm water. 
If the fish is benefited it will always have to be kept in temperate water, 
preferably shallow. 

It should be borne in mind that not all cases of loss of equilibrium 
are due to bladder trouble, but may be caused by accumulated gases result- 
ing from indigestion. Treatment for constipation will relieve these cases, 
but such fishes will have to always be watched carefully thereafter. 


Gill Congestion. There are two forms of gill congestion. The most 
important, generally known as “gill fever,” is that attacking fry from two 
to five weeks old, and is easily responsible for more losses among gold- 
fishes than all other causes combined. The gills become inflamed and 
swollen, presenting a distended appearance. Owing to the minuteness of 
the fish at this period a further observation is difficult except with a mag- 
nifying glass, which shows white threads like bristles sticking from the 
gill plates and openings. The disease is highly contagious, so that if one 
affected fish is found in a thousand, it is very difficult to save any of them, 
even though the sick fish be removed at once. 

The other form affects mainly young fishes about 2 inches long. The 
gills swell rapidly, the infection spreading to the throat and producing a 


152 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


gray or whitish appearance. Without treatment, death is sure to come 
quickly. This was formerly a common disease among fancy fishes, but 
for some unknown reason has largely subsided, we hope permanently. 


TREATMENT IN Fry. Innumerable experiments have been tried to 
cure this devastating disease, but without consistent results. So fatal is 
it considered by many expert fanciers that when they find a few affected 
fishes they destroy them, together with perhaps thousands of their fellows 
in the same tank without attempting a cure, throwing out bad and appar- 
ently good alike. The tank is then disinfected with strong salt water or 
more powerful germicides. The great trouble is that any chemical which 
will kill the vegetal parasites is also very apt to kill the delicate fry. How- 
ever, it is almost certain a cure can be found, and it is a great pity to 
neglect an opportunity for experimenting. Cases have been cured, but 
exact data is lacking. Nevertheless we have two experimental points to 
start from. The first and more likely is with permanganate of potash. A 
well-known and thoroughly reliable breeder claims to have cured over 
one thousand fry by making the water a “pale purple” with this chemical, 
leaving the fish in it. To gauge a permanganate solution by color is most 
difficult. If one looks through 12 inches of water, the color will be 12 
times as deep as through 1 inch. We would suggest trying % grain by 
weight to the gallon. This just flavors the water. (Tasting without swal- 
lowing will do no harm.) If fishes not yet affected are removed from 
their diseased companions and placed in such a solution for half a day, it 
is reasonably sure that many if not all could be saved, taking care, of 
course, not to return to an infected tank. Here it might be repeated to 
advantage that small fry should be lifted with a spoon and transferred 
carefully, avoiding pouring or any violent movements. 

The other basis for experiment is with sulphate of copper in ex- 
tremely diluted form—about 1 to 10,000 or weaker. Copper is fatal to all 
forms of life and therefore the treatment should only be temporary. We 
would suggest finding a strength that would kill the fry in an hour, then 
use that strength for 15-minute treatments for remaining fishes. Reports 
of cures by copper are current, but details are entirely lacking. 


TREATMENT Larcer FisHes. This form of gill congestion has also 
been considered necessarily fatal, but such is not the case. The fish should 
be placed in strong salt water (3% ounces to the gallon) until it rolls 
over from exhaustion. It is then transferred to a tank of gently running 
water which overflows. It appears as though the salt loosens the disease- 
germs and the running water carries them off while they are weakened. 
If this is a correct theory the cure could no doubt be hastened by pouring 
fresh water in the under side of the gills after the salt treatment, thus 
also helping to revive the fish. Treatment is repeated daily until improve- 
ment is noticed. 


Eye Inflammation. The protruding eyes of telescope fishes are quite 
subject to injury, especially against the sides of cans in travel. Painstaking 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 153 


treatment can go far to relieve this condition and ward off permanent 
blindness. 

TREATMENT. Make a saturated solution of boracic acid in tepid 
water. This is gently applied daily to the affected parts by a bit of ab- 
sorbent cotton. The fish should be placed, if possible, in a large tank free 
from obstructions, that the injured eyes may not be further irritated. 


Ichthyopthirius. This parasitic disease causes small whitish dots 
all over the fish. It is more apt to affect tropical fishes and has killed 
many fine specimens. Until recently it has been considered incurable, 
but two cures are now positively known. The fish should be placed in a 
plain glass jar and have the water changed (keeping temperature even) 
every eight hours, disinfecting jar each time. This takes a few days. 
It is claimed that plain water is as good as salt for this treatment, but the 
writer has had better success with brackish water, gradually increasing 
the strength and then as gradually reducing. 

The second method of treatment is only suited to goldfishes. This 
consists of treatment in water in which two grains to the gallon of per- 
manganate of potash have been dissolved. In a few days the old mucous 
coating of the fish peels off and leaves a new, healthy surface. 


Animal Parasites. There are only three of these of sufficient impor- 
tance to keepers of aquarium fishes to require mention. Food fishes and all 
wild species are more or less subject to numerous parasites, many of them 
serious or fatal. No doubt aquarium conditions are not favorable to their 
propagation; otherwise we would have more trouble in this direction on 
account of the large numbers of wild fishes being imported for aquarium 
purposes from all temperate and tropical parts of the earth. 


Leeches. There is a small white leech about 14 inch long occasionally 
introduced with living food (daphnia), more particularly in the spring. 
This attacks the bodies and gills, and if the fish is only a few weeks old the 
results are fatal. In an aquarium it is easily possible to see them on the 
glass and the breeder should be on the lookout for them. If any are dis- 
covered the fishes should be carefully removed to an aquarium where they 
can be kept under observation. The affected aquarium should be disin- 
fected and the plant destroyed. These and larger leeches can be removed 
from the gills of larger fishes by the injection of strong salt water, or by 
the progressive salt water treatment previously described (page 144). 


Fish Lice. While not very common, and seldom fatal, this crustacean 
parasite is very annoying. It is about 1 inch in diameter, very flat, of a 
nearly rounded outline and is quite translucent, but distinctly showing 
handsome iridescent colors under a good magnifying glass. They are 
free swimmers and are able to hold most tenaciously to their hosts. So 
tight is their hold that even after death by poisoning they still adhere 
where fastened. Owing to their translucent quality they are difficult to 
see. The fishes will scratch themselves much the same as in cases of the 


154 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


“Itch,” but one can notice small irritated spots, particularly on the tail 
and fins. The body, however, is not free from attack. The only treatment 
is to take the fish out of the water and scrape off the pests, for no chemical 
has been discovered that will cause them to let go, and no doubt if it would 


it would also kill the fish. 


Fic. 98. FisuH Louse (Enlarged four diameters) 


Flukes. The detection of flukes is not easy without the aid of a 
miscroscope, the cause being a small parasite worm (Gyrodactylus ele- 
gans), chiefly infesting the gills. The fish breathes unnaturally fast, fre- 
quently coming to the surface of the water for air. The fins twitch and 
occasionally the fish will dash wildly and aimlessly about the tank, coming 
to a rest after exhaustion. Before death the body becomes thin and 
emaciated. 

If the fish is not too far gone it will stand the formaldehyde treatment, 
which will usually effect a cure. Place the fish in a solution of 5 drops of 
formaldehyde to the quart of water. Add one drop per minute (per 
quart) until there are ten drops to each quart. Allow the fish to remain 
in this for ten minutes unless it shows signs of exhaustion sooner. Return 
to a thoroughly disinfected tank and repeat the operation next day. Two 
or three treatments will usually be sufficient. As a rule, all the fishes in a 
tank are affected, so if this parasite is positively identified, it will be well 
to treat every fish that has been exposed. 

We can see no reason why the formaldehyde treatment should not be 
applied to any of the parasitic ailments. If carefully used it will at least 
cause no trouble. 


Diseases of Tropical Fishes. Tropical fishes cannot stand the differ- 
ent chemicals and treatments recommended for goldfishes. The principal 
cause for their lack of condition is too low a temperature. If placed ina 
uniform warmer temperature, with one ounce of sea salt to each gallon 
of water, and fed up on daphnia or white worms (described on page 136) 
they will usually improve rapidly. 

The most common disease among them is Ichthyopthirius, caused by 
an infusorian parasite burrowing into the skin, producing numberless 
white raised spots. This requires special and prompt treatment, carried 
out to the letter as described on page 153. The treatment is worthless 
unless the changes of water are made on time. Aside from chill this 
epidemic kills more tropical fishes than any other cause. It has long been 
considered incurable, but recent careful study by European scientists of 
the life history of the parasite has evolved the very simple treatment de- 
scribed, and there is no reason for further serious losses in this direction. 
This has been proven by the author and other American experimenters. 


10 


Chapter Fourteen 


Enemies of Aquarium Fishes 


156 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


INSECT ENEMIES OF FISHES 


Among the troubles that beset the fish culturists, not the least are 
caused by insects and their larve. This applies both to the propagators 
of food fishes and those interested in fancy aquarium pets. We use the 
term “insect” here in its popular sense and not according to exact scien- 
tific definition. 

Some of these enemies are much more readily detected than others, 
but most of them may enter the rearing tanks when so small that detection 
is practically impossible. Wire screen or netting will keep out those that 
fly, or a large enemy in the water can be separated from daphnia or other 
living food by passing the “catch” through a fine wire gauze under water, 
but despite these precautions it is essential in the summer season to be 
ever on the lookout for any of the pests which may have gotten by our 
keenest observation. Fortunately for the aquarist there are not many 
kinds of insect enemies with which he is actively concerned. There are 
only four, three of these being larve. While the others are none the less 
savage or fatal they are not so often met with, or else are so easily 
detected that they are not such serious factors with which to reckon. 
With the aid of illustrations made from specimens, mostly living, we will 
proceed to give descriptions of the four arch-enemies in the order of their 
destructiveness, and follow on with the others, adhering to the same plan 
as far as possible. 


Water Tiger. This is the larva of the Predaceous Diving Beetle 
(Dytiscus), itself also a very powerful but easily detected enemy. The 
Water Tiger is easily the most rapacious, savage and insatiable enemy of 


Fic. 99. Water Ticer (Life size) 


young fishes. It does not wait for its prey to pass nearby, but adopts 
business-like methods of going after its unwary victims. The flat head 
is furnished with a strong pair of hollow mandibles, through which it 
sucks enough blood to kill its victim and then wantonly goes after another. 
In this way a single individual may kill an entire hatching of fish over 
night. This larva can usually be recognized by its spindle-shaped body, 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 157 


flat, strong head, pale translucent brown color and a steady progress 
through the water, coming to the surface frequently to breath a moment 
through the rear end. Although growing to a length of 21% inches, at 
which time it attacks larger fishes and any small aquatic animals, it is 
the smaller sizes with which we are principally concerned. From a length 


of /%4 to 1 inch they are not so easily seen but are capable of doing great 
mischief. 


Spearmouth. While not quite so common as the Water Tiger its 
habits are similar and it grows to an even larger size, reaching 3 inches. 


Fic. 100. Spearmoutu (Life size) 


The body is thicker and the mandibles are shorter. From the aquarist’s 
standpoint both these larve could be classed as one. The Spearmouth is 
the larva of the large Water Scavenger Beetle (Hydrophilus). 


Dragon-Fly Larvz. Almost everyone who raises fish outdoors is 
familiar with these unpleasant individuals. There are two reasons why 
they are difficult to altogether avoid. When newly hatched they are very 
small and will go through the same strainer as daphnia; furthermore the 


Fics. 101 anp 102. Nymex oF Dracon FLy anp Larva CaTCcHING YounG FIsH 
(Life size) 


mother Dragon Fly (Odonata) is an excellent flier and may deposit her 
eggs in any body of water that provides proper facilities for her needs. 
These larve live more by their cunning than by any agility as swimmers. 
Waiting on a dirty pond-bottom or attached to sticks, aquatic grass or 
other object they mark time until a victim comes within close reach. 
Then they quickly pounce forward, extending a vicious, pincer-like 
organ called the “mask,” rarely missing the object of attack. The method 
of propulsion through the water is peculiar, being brought about by a 
series of expulsions of water from the hinder end. This enables them to 


158 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


make a very sudden leap towards a victim. The “mask” shown in Figure 
102 when not in use is folded before and under the head. Dragon Fly 
larve are strictly carnivorous at all periods and will attack any pond 
creature reasonably near its own size. If given enough time a single 
individual will destroy an entire hatching of fishes, growing by what it 
feeds upon so as to be able to devour the remaining fishes which are also 
becoming larger. 


Water Boatmen and Back Swimmers (Corixide and Notonectide) 
are found everywhere in still or slow-moving water. They are especially 
plentiful in ponds containing vegetal decomposition and filth, not because 


NO 


Fic. 103. WatTER BoATMAN (Slightly enlarged) 


they like these, but because such conditions are favorable to the growth 
of other creatures making good food for themselves. In daphnia pools 
from midsummer until the end of the season Water Boatmen are fre- 
quently found. Care should be exercised in picking them out of a net, 
as their bite is very severe, the sensation being described as akin to the 
sting of a hornet. Young fishes fall easy prey to these predatory insects. 
They are usually easy to see on account of their jerky, jumping move- 
ments, which are produced by use of their oar-like swimming legs. They 
are obliged to occasionally come to the surface of the water to take air, 
which gives an opportunity of seeing them. Both Water Boatmen and 
Back Swimmers fly clumsily at night, and are often attracted to electric 
lights. In some Southern climates they occur in enormous numbers. 
They are gathered by the natives, dried and sold as fishfood under the 
name of “African Flies.” 


Fic. 104. Prepaczous Divine Bretie (Life size) 


Predaceous Diving Beetle (Dytiscus). Fortunately this beetle is of 
such size that it can scarcely escape notice, especially as it is obliged to 
come to the surface for air, which it takes at the end of the abdomen. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 159 


It is rapacious in extreme degree and is a good swimmer. A large ‘speci- 
men was once placed in an aquarium for observation. It so quickly 
attacked a goldfish that the scales fell in a small shower and the fish died 
before it could be rescued. The males may be distinguished by the ball- 
like development on the forelegs. They are usually of such a dark 


brown as to appear black, but are sometimes marked or bordered with 
yellow. 


Water Scavenger Beetle (Hydrophilide). We mention this beetle 
here because of its resemblance to the large predaceous diving beetle. It 
swims differently, using its legs alternately, while the diving beetle moves 
opposite pairs together. The Scavenger Beetle is also different in that 


Fic. 105. Water SCAVENGER BEETLE (Life size) 


it breathes at the surface from the mouth. Instead of long antenne they 
have palpi looking like club-shaped antenne. This beetle lives chiefly 
on decomposing vegetal and animal matter, although taking soft living 
plants such as Nitella. It has been claimed to be predaceous but there 
is doubt about their attacking fishes. They have been kept in aquaria 
with them without doing damage. On general principles, however, it is 
best to exclude all beetles, large or small. 


Giant Water Bug (Belostomatide) also known as the Electric 
Light Bug is one of our common bugs both on land and in water. Flying 
clumsily but strongly before electric lights, or patiently awaiting a victim 
at the bottom of a pond, the bug is one and the same. They are fiercely 


Fics. 106 anno 107. Grant Water Bucs (B. serphus and B. americana) THE 
SMALLER a Mate Wits Eccs on Back (Life size) 


160 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


predaceous and very powerful. The smaller sizes are the more to be 
feared, as they are not so easily seen. While this is a vicious enemy, it is 
not one that frequently gets into the fish tank except by flight and as only 
the adults fly they are easily detected by their size. In large outdoor rear- 
ing pools or lakes they are a very practical menace. The colors range 
from clear, dark reddish brown to dull olive. With some of the smaller 
genera, Serphus and Zaitha it was supposed that females lay the eggs on 
their own backs. Some writers have accepted this popular misconcep- 
tion without investigation. It has been fully established that the female 
fastens her eggs on the back of an unwilling male, who only submits to 
the indignity after a struggle. 


Water Scorpion (Nepide). We have here another of the insects 
spending most of its time in aquatic dirt and rubbish awaiting innocent 
passers-by who, for their unwariness; will pay with their lives. Water 


Fic. 108. Water Scorpion (Life size) 


scorpions depend upon their obscurity to get near their prey, which they 
quickly seize with their modified forelegs. While this insect is common 
enough to the naturalist, it is not one with which the fish-culturist need 
be seriously concerned. 


Whirligig Beetle (Gyrinide~). This well-known beetle is common 
to nearly all slow-flowing streams and pools, keeping up a perpetual 
movement on the surface of the water, on which they glide apparently 
without effort. On account of its size and shape it is often called the 


Fics. 109 anp 110. Wuurticic BEETLE AND Larva (Enlarged three diameters) 


coffee bug. The breeder of fishes is not harrassed by this insect but 
occasionally an aquarist will be tempted to introduce one in a fish-tank. 
This is a mistake. They are predaceous and can inflict a severe bite. The 
larva, which is not so well known, is also predaceous. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 161 


Water Strider (Hydrometride). Another of the predaceous aquatic 
insects is the Water Strider. Quite as well known as the Whirligig 
Beetle, it adopts somewhat the same methods of securing its prey, darting 


Fic. 111. Water Strwer (Life size) 


over the surface of the water, waiting for the stream to bring down some 
helpless insect victim that has fallen overboard. They are capable of 
catching young fishes which come to the surface. 


Mites (Hydrachna). These odd-looking little balls of intense red 
are sometimes placed in small tropical aquaria with fishes. This is in- 


Fic. 112. Water Mite (Enlarged about four diameters) 


advisable, as they are parasitic. It is doubtful whether they actually kill 
their host. They are common in the still water of lily ponds. 


Hydra. Although Hydra is not an insect we include it here as an 
important enemy of young fishes. Hydra is a polyp which attaches itself 
to plants, stones or the sides of the aquarium. Being thread-like in ap- 
pearance it is apt to be overlooked, especially by the inexperienced. It 


Nc 


Fic. 113. ici eels enlarged) 


is usually introduced with living food caught from pools. The spores are 
so small as to be unrecognizable, and therefore they cannot be avoided. 
The animal itself has a cylindrical body with from 5 to 12 tentacles sur- 


162 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


rounding a mouth. The shape varies so amazingly that an accurate 
description is impossible. The two figures shown in Figure 113 are of the 
same individual. When alarmed the tentacles are entirely withdrawn, 
making recognition still more difficult. 

They rapidly deplete an aquarium of daphnia and newly hatched 
fishes. When a school of fry under 5-16 inch long is disappearing with- 
out apparent cause, it will be well to take a sharp look for some harmless 
looking hydra. 

Hydra possess a poison which quickly stupifies their prey, and to fish 
large enough to eat the hydra this poison doubtless has an unpleasant 
taste. There is no fish known which will eat them. To get rid of this 
pest, remove all fish, snails, etc., from the tank and place in it a solution 
of permanganate of potassium of a strength of 3 grains to the gallon of 
aquarium water. Allow this to stand for two days, change water and 
replace fish. This treatment will not kill plants. 

If no small living food be placed in the aquarium, hydra will in a 
few weeks be starved. 

One experimenter has claimed that by raising the water temperature 
to 110° Fahrenheit for a few minutes the hydra will all be killed, while 
the plants will not be affected. 


LARGER ENEMIES OF FISHES 


It should not be understood that the foregoing are the only serious 
enemies of pet fishes. In the greenhouse, outdoor pool, or even the 
library, misfortune is liable to descend in various guises. Chief among 
these are the cat, rat, muskrat, snake, heron, kingfisher and small boy. 
Fishes are also taken by the large frog, sandpiper, horned: owl, crayfish, 
and blackbird. The latter specializes on picking out the eyes of telescope 
fishes if the water is near enough to the edge of tank for him to reach 
them. 


Chapter Fifteen 


Aquatic Plants for the Aquarium, 
Tank and Pond 


164 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


AQUARIUM PLANTS 


Whether aquaria are kept for scientific study or for the enjoyment 
of the beautiful, aquatic plants will always be found a useful—if not in- 
dispensable—adjunct. The fact that plants give off oxygen under the 
influence of light has been mentioned at several other places in this 
volume, but the principle is so important that it would be difficult to over- 
emphasize it. Aquaria containing good plant growth may be tightly 
covered and if placed in a good light they will support a fair number of 
fishes, the life-giving oxygen being supplied exclusively by the plants. 

That the roots of healthy aquatic plants absorb the products of 
decomposition in the bottom of the aquarium is an established fact. When 
an aquarium has been established for some time, the sand has become a 
little dirty and the plants have spread so that the roots of some are 
against the glass, a close observation will show a condition similar to that 
pictured in figure 114. The sand near the roots is distinctly whiter than 
that beyond their reach. 

No arguments need be put forward 
to establish the esthetic value of plant life 
in the household aquarium or the pool in 
summer. Without them no one could 
attempt to reproduce the effects of - 
Nature. So well understood is the value 
of aquatic plants that aquarists are con- 
stantly on the lookout for anything new 
which might enhance the beautiful results 
already achieved. Occasionally something 
of real merit is found. We are pleased 
to be able to list several of these newer 

Fic. 114. ApsorPtion sy Prant species here, together with all the better- 

Roots known favorites. Only those plants 

having been proven satisfactory are de- 

scribed, but naturally in such a large range it will be found that the same 
conditions are not suited to all. 

It is a good general rule to select young plants. They transplant 
better and sooner adapt themselves to new conditions. If old plants are 
used the dying leaves should be removed. 

Much discussion has been brought out as to the best methods of 
planting, principally as to whether to use soil, sand or pebbles, or whether, 
in some cases, planting is necessary at all. Success has been attained in 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 165 


=: 


ats 
=> 


Sau 


Fic. 115. Sacittarra NATANS (Reduced one-third) 


166 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


nany ways. The author believes in the use of coarse sand, either with or 

without a mixture of pebbles, this latter being a matter of taste only. 
The disadvantage of pebbles is that they are likely to get into a siphon 
and clog it. Pebbles without sand collect dirt which cannot be removed. 
There are no experienced advocates of fine sand. It packs too hard for 
the roots to penetrate. If soil is to be used in pots or otherwise, an in- 
verted piece of turf is excellent. It is compact, comparatively clean and is 
not likely to turn sour. In all cases soil is covered with sand or gravel to 
prevent washing out. As to other points in reference to planting, the use 
of fertilizer, etc., the reader is referred to page 14. 


SAGITTARIA 


This plant in the three described species comprises the most important 
group of aquarium plants. It has not the commercial importance of 
Cabomba, because the latter is convenient to use in small bunches in the 
“fish globes” seen everywhere; but to those who plant in real aquaria, 
Sagittaria receives first consideration. 

It is a plant with bright green slender leaves of grass-like form, so 
that it is popularly referred to by aquarists as “grass.” It takes its name 
from the arrow-shaped summer-leaves which stand above the water, 
Sagittarius being the sign of the archer in the Zodiac. The white flowers 
are the shape of miniature cups, with yellow centres, standing above the 
water. Although seeds are formed, the principal means of reproduction 
is by runners. Small tubers or corms are also formed among the roots, 
particularly in crowded situations. These produce plants. 

A number of species are distributed throughout the United States, 
many of them quite large, frequently with leaves extending well above the 
water. These are only useful as bog plants and even for this purpose 
they are difficult to transplant successfully. The majority of wild Sagit- 
tarias are not suited to the aquarium. 

There has been much discussion as to the classification of Sagittaria 
into a number of doubtful species. Environment makes such radical 
changes in its appearance that there is a tendency to claim new species 
when there is in reality no botanical distinction. 

Sagittaria natans, known also as Ribbon Arrowhead, is perhaps the 
most important of the group to the aquarist. It is of moderate size and is 
suited to the average aquarium on that account. Multiplying rapidly, 
growing the entire year, supplying a large amount of oxygen and thriving 
under varying conditions, it is very valuable. When an aquarium is up- 
rooted on account of Sagittaria or Vallisneria becoming too thick, it will 
always be found that the sand is not foul-smelling, showing that the roots 
purify the soil. 


167 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


Fic. 116. Grant Sacittarta (Reduced one-half) 


168 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Fic. 117. SAGItrarra 
Fic. 118. Witp Lupwicia (L. glandulosa) 


SsuBULATA [Pusilla] (Natural size) 


169 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


SS 
= < 
oo ge 


1 eS ae 
f <= es Se == <= 
\( -™ acre | 
Zz Sone ae=—2e08—="——"“77nRp=2- = a\bN 
LL eS eee” 


Fic. 119. Vartisneria (Reduced one-half or more) 


170 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Sagittaria gigantea is believed to be a cultivated variety of S. sagit- 
taefolia. Its leaves are broad and stocky, having a decidedly substantial 
quality and is one of the easiest plants to succeed with. A healthy speci- 
men is quite light in weight and on this account must be well planted with 
roots extending in different directions. Once established it holds well and 
will stand more rough usage from contact with fish-nets, etc., than any 
other aquatic. Height, 10 to 20 inches. It is better suited in appearance 
to a large aquarium than a small one, but a single Giant Sagittaria in the 
centre of a smaller tank, surrounded by some of its lesser cousins makes 
a good effect. So popular has this plant deservedly become that dealers 
have difficulty in supplying it, and they are always ready to buy up any 
surplus stock. 

Sagittaria subulata has recently come into popularity on account of its 
small size. Fanciers of tropical fishes, now becoming so numerous, gener- 
ally use several small aquaria, and in order to produce a symmetrical 
picture it is necessary to introduce plants of suitable proportion. The 
leaves are of a rather dark shade of green, narrow and thick through, 
presenting a strong, wiry appearance. Sagittaria subulata grows from 3 
to 7 inches, the stronger the light, the shorter the leaves. It multiplies 
rapidly from runners and soon carpets the bottom of the aquarium, mak- 
ing either a good spawning bed or a miniature thicket in which young 
fishes may hide from cannibalistic parents. Can be had from some dealers 
and is collected in the coastwise States from New York to Alabama. It 
is incorrectly known as S. pusilla. 


VALLISNERIA 


Vallisneria (Vallisneria spiralis) is another of the grass-like plants, 
having strap-shaped leaves of the same breadth their entire length. It is 
known as Channel Grass, Eel Grass and Tape Grass. Appearing some- 
what like Sagittaria, it has a distinct individuality of its own. The 
leaves are of a lighter green and have a more translucent quality than 
Sagittaria. Also the plant tends more to rise vertically in undulating lines, 
which produces a very pleasant decorative effect, being of a less spreading 
contour than Vallisneria. The leaves may also be identified by the mar- 
gins being of a slightly different shade of green. By reflected light the 
margins appear the darker, but if held up to the light, the centre is the 
darker when viewed by transmitted light. Vallisneria is probably with- 
out a superior as an oxygenator. For use in large aquaria, particularly 
where artistic effects are striven for, it is without an equal. The 
aquarium shown in colors as our frontispiece is featured principally by 
this plant, although printing ink falls far short of giving an adequate idea 
of the radiant, light silky green color of the leaves themselves. 


171 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


TS Es 
Soe aS ee Gs 


oe a eS eee eS 
Ss 


1a (Reduced two-thirds) 


Fic. 120. GIANT VALLISNER 


172 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


For some years American aquarists depended upon plants gathered 
locally from rivers, creeks, mill races, etc. Owing to the long-established 
habit of dying down to the tuft in winter, the plant had a strong tendency 
to keep to the schedule, even when kept in a warm aquarium over winter. 
In order to overcome this difficulty a search was made for a stock grow- 
ing in a climate without severe winters. This plan was completely suc- 
cessful. In 1910 we were fortunate enough to secure a single small plant 
from Italy which, by careful propagation and distribution among leading 
aquarists, has now multiplied itself into the many thousands. There is 
every reason why it should establish itself in further favor among those 
having large or fairly deep aquaria. It grows and multiplies constantly 
and the runners lie close to the bottom, not requiring to be pushed down 
like young Sagittaria plants. Contrary to the advice of some writers, we 
advise against deep planting. It is important that the crown be not 
covered, but just at the surface. The plant is not well suited to small 
aquaria, as it grows from 18 to 36 inches, according to conditions. If 
closely confined it is likely to get into a tangled mass whenever a fish has 
to be caught. Allowed to rise to the surface and then extend horizontally 
on it for some distance it produces a luxuriant picture. Rising from either 
end of the aquarium and trained over the surface towards the centre, 
Vallisneria makes the best of frames to show off the more brilliant beauties 
of the fishes. The sexes are separate in Vallisneria, fertilization taking 
place in a peculiar manner. The female flower, small, cup-shaped and 
white, floats at the end of a long spiral scape on the surface of the water. 
The male flower on another plant comes only a short distance from the 
crown. It is a case containing pollen balls. When the case splits the 
pollen floats to the top, where, by the action of wind, insects or other 
chance, fertilization is accomplished. Few of these plants in the aquarium 
start from seed. 


For one or two large plants to dominate the centre of the aquarium, 
nothing is better than Giant Vallisneria, now brought from the Southern 
States by some of our leading dealers. Its leaves are as wide as those of 
Giant Sagittaria, but much longer, varying from two to four feet, accord- 
ing to conditions. This variety is also a constant grower. Stocks of 
Vallisneria or Sagittaria suited to the aquarium do not do well outdoors 
in direct sun, the old leaves dying and the new ones only developing a 
few inches in length. 


ANACHARIS 


Known to American aquarists as Anacharis and in Europe as Elodea 
it is also popularly called Ditchmoss, Water Pest, Water Thyme, and Bab- 
ington’s Curse. Some of the rather uncomplimentary titles are due to a 


173 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


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Fic. 121. Witp Anacnaris (Life size) 


174 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


characteristic which, at least in the aquarium, should be considered a 
favorable point—that is—rapid growth. It may generally be taken for 
granted that if an aquatic plant is thriving, it is doing good work for the 
aquarium. In form it is moss-like, the leaves growing on a fragile stem, 
the entire plant being completely submerged at all periods. Several spe- 
cies are distributed throughout the United States and Southern Canada. 
A cultivated variety, probably derived from A. canadensis, is considerably 
larger than the common local specimens to be found. The closeness of the 
leaves together depends upon the strength of light in which the plant is 
kept, the difference being so pronounced that sections of the same plant 
divided and kept in ‘strong and weak light conditions will soon appear so 
different as to be scarcely recognizable as the same stock. The plant 
grows several feet in length, sending off occasional shoots and a few 
roots at random that reach down into the soil. In the aquarium it is best 
to only retain from 6 to 15 inches of the newer growth, cutting away the 
old ends, re-bunching and re-planting. Planting is a matter of little 
concern to Anacharis. In a well-lighted aquarium, where it will not be 
nibbled at by large fishes, it will prosper whether planted or not, particu- 
larly if not kept too warm. Anacharis is an excellent oxygenator and is 
a good plant for the beginner or for those who want to add variety to 
their aquarium vegetation. Allowed to grow into a mass it forms perfect 
hiding places for young fishes, as it does not grow so close but that they 
may move about in it. To be had of dealers generally. 


CABOMBA 


Commercially there is no doubt Cabomba is the leading aquatic plant. 
Its finely-cut, fan-like, bright green leaves make a very good first impres- 
sion, although it does not long look so well in the aquarium. It is brittle 
and the fishes if active soon pick it to shreds. Even though this does not 
occur, it becomes long and spindly. Enormous quantities are gathered 
from ponds, some of them purposely planted, from Maryland to North 
Carolina. 

The plant under natural conditions is a good producer of oxygen, 
but in the aquarium its activity in this respect is doubtful. Although its 
use is recommended by many writers, the author’s experience and obser- 
vation lead him to take exception to their views. 

Cabomba caroliniana is the species usually sold in bunches in pet 
shops. It is well known as Washington Grass, Fanwort, and Watershield. 
In habit it is purely aquatic and propagates mainly by branching. The 
stems under natural conditions attain a length of several feet. 

Cabomba roseafolia is a species whose principal distinguishing char- 
acteristic consists of a distinct reddish hue on the stems and lower sides 
of the leaves. It too is a handsome plant when first introduced. 


175 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


Fic. 122. Curtivatep Anacuaris (Life sizc) 


Fic. 123. Casompa (Life size) 


176 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


MYRIOPHYLLUM 


Here we have another plant which at first looks well in the aquarium 
but which deteriorates rapidly. It has, however, a strong redeeming 
feature, the very finely divided hair-like leaves being ideal for receiving 
the spawn of goldfishes. For this purpose it has grown more and more 
into favor. It is used either in the bunches as they are sold, or made into 
a spawning-ring as shown on page 51. As a spawn-receiving plant it 
has one advantage over Water Hyacinth in that the individual pieces may 
be spread out so as to give all the eggs a similiar amount of sun, whereas 
with Hyacinth one side is usually much more protected than the other, 
making the eggs hatch at different times. Before using Myriophyllum 
to spawn on it should be well washed off by moving it about in clear 
water, being careful to remove all insects, snails and snail eggs. When 
spawning is finished the plant had as well be thrown away. 


There are a number of generally distributed species throughout 
America, all having the same general characteristics, but some are better 
than others as “spawning grass” on account of clo,-~ and longer leaves. 
They are all popularly known as Water Milfoil. 


Myriophyllum verticillatum. This is the best American species and 
is found in both shallow and deep ponds throughout the United States 
and Lower Canada. Its leaves are dense and crowded, making an excel- 
lent spawning plant. J. nietschei is a cultivated variety of the same, the 
leafy filaments developing from 114 to 3 inches in length. 


Myriophyllum proserpinacoides or Parrot’s Feather is a partially sub- 
merged form which should be allowed to creep on the surface of the 
water, where its blue-green, feathery leaves display a charm exclusively 
their own. Does well in the greenhouse or established on the edges of 
partially shaded lakes, where it becomes very robust and looks strikingly 
beautiful. The roots are not winter-killed. On account of growing so 
rapidly it requires too much attention in a small aquarium. 


CERATOPHYLLUM 


Hornwort, as it is generally known, is mentioned here on account of 
its resemblance to Myriophyllum, for which it is sometimes gathered. It 
is an extremely poor aquarium plant, being very brittle and liable to rapid 
decomposition. Besides its characteristic of being fragile it may also be 
recognized by having practically no roots, absorption taking place in 
the leaves. 


It is found principally in ponds and slow moving streams, where it 
washes about freely with the current. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 


1i7 


UTRICULARIA 
Many species of Bladderwort are distributed throughout the Temper- 


ate Zone. 


They have somewhat the appearance of the finely-divided 


leaves of Myriophyllum, but may be identified by the small bladders 


dotted throughout. 


Our figure 125 of U. vulgaris gives a good idea of 


the general type. They thrive in the aquarium if given plenty of strong 


light. 


The Bladderworts are carnivorous plants, trapping the micro- 


scopic lower forms of animal life in their bladders, where they are di- 


gested. 


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It has been claimed that they can trap extremely small fishes, 


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Fic, 124. MyRIOPHYLLUM NIETSCHEI (Slightly reduced) 


Fic. 125. 


GREATER BLAppERWORT (Reduced one-third) 


such as the young of Dwarf Gourami, but we do not know that this has 


ever been definitely proven. 


There can be no doubt, however, that the 


plant does take living food which would be useful to young fishes, and to 
that extent is objectionable in the aquarium. 


178 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


HAIR GRASS 


Eriocaulon septangulare, a dainty hair-like aquatic of recent intro- 
duction, fills small tropical aquaria in an agreeable manner. It is another 
of those plants forming a useful adjunct to the breeding of tropical fishes. 
It multiplies rapidly from short runners and is a good oxygenator. Of 


| 


Fic. 126. Hair Grass (Life size) 


a pleasing shade of light green it makes a contrasting group among other 
plants in a large aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in a small 
aquarium by itself. It grows from 3 to 8 inches and is native to ponds in 
the Middle Atlantic and Southern States. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 17 


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Fic. 127. PotTAMOGETON DENSUs (Reduced one-half) 
Fic. 128. Nrirerta cRAcILIs (Reduced one-third) 


POTAMOGETON 


In strong contrast to the foregoing dainty plants is Potamogeton 
densus, or pondweed. As will be seen from figure 127, these leaves are 
broad and robust. In color they are a bright green. This variety is said 
to be of European origin but is now common in ponds in the United 
States. If established in soil in flat pots it. flourishes in a well-lighted 
aquarium. Pieces collected from the wild may be introduced by fasten- 
ing into the sand. They present a very attractive appearance and will last 
for quite a time, but should only be regarded as temporary and when the 
leaves begin to turn yellow should be removed. There are many widely 
distributed species of Potamogeton, all looking very attractive in a state 
of Nature, especially P. crispus with curly leaves. They look very tempt- 
ing, but none seem to survive in the aquarium except P. densus and that 
only when established just to its liking. 


180 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


NITELLA 


Of the slender-leaved aquatics. Nutella gracilis is one of the best, 
Our figure 128 gives a good idea of its dainty form. It is not freely dis- 
tributed but is found occasionally in ponds and streams in the Eastern 
States, usually attached to bits of stick or stone. From this it receives its 
popular name, Stonewort. In removing the plant to the aquarium, it is 
best to take also the base upon which it roots. If placed in a situation to 
its liking Nitella prospers wonderfully in the aquarium and is a fine oxy- 
genator. Under the microscope the leaves show the circulation of proto- 
plasm better than any other plant. Requires plenty of light. 


LUDWIGIA 


Popularly known as Swamp Loosestrife, this plant in about 25 spe- 
cies is widely and thickly distributed in North America, mostly growing 
at the edges of streams like Watercress. Although in reality more of a 
bog-plant than a pure aquatic, it does well in the aquarium, particularly 
if kept in the earth of the pot in which it was propagated from a cutting. 
Propagation is very easy in the greenhouse. About 5 short cuttings are 
placed in a 2-inch pot, having a top-layer of sand. This is not done under 
water but the pots need to be kept saturated and the air very moist. They 
soon root and when they have developed about an inch of new growth 
should be placed in the aquarium. 


Ludwigia is one of the more important aquarium plants on account 
of its decorative value and pronounced individuality. When kept in a 
strong light the under sides of the leaves become a beautiful red color. 
Wild stock is not altogether satisfactory. It throws out too many roots to 
make a pleasing appearance, and in the aquarium becomes attenuated in 
character. A cultivated variety said to have come from South America 
is better in every respect and is easily obtained, for it is the kind propa- 
gated by dealers in aquatics. As it is sold in the original pots before being 
plunged into water it can safely be sent long distances. Growing to a 
length of several feet if untrimmed it is suited to large aquaria but may 
also be kept small by pinching back. Unlike Anacharis it should not be 
trimmed at the root end unless the stock has become quite old and no 
longer prospers. Does best in strong light and may also be propagated in 
the aquarium from cuttings. A little Ludwigia can be seen in our 
frontispiece. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 181 


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Fic. 129. Curtivatep Lupwicta (Life size) 


182 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


SPATTERDOCK 


Among. the newer introductions into the aquarium are the submerged 
Spatterdocks. The large arrow- or spade-shaped leaves make a very 
characteristic appearance. Seedling plants gathered from lakes and ponds 
in the fall will do well in the aquarium over winter. If summer leaves 
appear and become too large for the aquarium the plant had best be re- 
moved. The Southern Spatterdock, Nuphar sagittefolia, does not 


Fic. 130. SouTHern Spatrerpock (Reduced one-half) 


develop aerial leaves, but they gradually lengthen as the warm season pro- 
gresses. Figure 130 shows the plant in March. Later the stems and 
leaves will be longer. In October a new growth starts close to the thick, 
running root or rhizome. The leaves of this Spatterdock are of the bright- 
est green hue and do not darken in strong light. Where the rhizomes 
have been broken off they have a tendency to rot, eventually killing the 
plant. This seems to be overcome by planting in sweet soil. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 183 


Fic. 131. Japanese SpatTerpock (Reduced two-thirds) 


The Japanese Spatterdock, Alisma spec., has leaves of a considerably 
darker sage green, broader at the base. It is a continuous grower, has no 
aerial leaves and multiplies readily at the rhizome. Altogether a satisfac- 
tory plant for the large aquarium. 


FONTINALIS 


Known as Willowmoss these plants are found attached to stones 
or other substantial objects. They are of a pleasing dark-green color and 
have the advantage of doing well in a subdued light, although a moderate 
amount of direct sun does them no harm. 


Fontinalis antipyretica grows in long branching form, with leaves 
closely adhering to the stem. It occurs in cold-water streams and rivers, 
being very plentiful in some localities but is not freely distributed. 


Fontinalis gracilis is very much smaller and threadlike, the leaves 
being so small as to appear like a roughness on the stem. In the aquarium 
this plant seems to have a faculty of soon becoming covered with sedi- 
ment. Indeed some aquarists find it useful to clear the water. As soon 
as the plant becomes well covered it is taken out, rinsed off and returned. 
As the stems are strong they stand this treatment successfully. A stone 
containing a thick bunch of Fontinalis gracilis is an attractive feature in 
the aquarium. It is a slow grower. The new leaves are bright green but 
soon turn to a dark sage color. 


184 : GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


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Fic. 132. FontTinatis ANTIPYRETICA (Life size) 
Fic. 133. FontTINAtts GRACILIS (Life size) 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 185 


Fic. 134. Herevestis (Life size) 
Fic. 135. Spring Starwort (Life size) 


186 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


HERPESTIS 


Herpestis amplevicaulis bears a general resemblance to Moneywort, 
but in essential characteristics is quite different. It is a pure aquatic with 
thick leaves and a stout stem. Native to the ponds of Southeastern 
United States as far as Florida. It is one of the best of recent additions 
to aquarium plants. On account of being a slow grower its introduction 
is not likely to be rapid, but once established it does very well, holding its 
bright green leaves a long time. When out of the water it has a pleasant 
faint odor. Being of Southern origin it will prosper in the temperature of 
tropical aquaria where some plants will not do so well, although it thrives 
in cool water also. Incorrectly known as Bacopa. 


CALLITRICHE 


Floating in small, cool streams throughout the United States and 
Lower Canada one will find patches of brilliant, light-green small leaves. 
Examination will show them to be the floating leaves of a long-stemmed 
plant growing in the mud. These are various forms of Callitriche, or 
Spring Starwort, sometimes also called Water Fennel. When the plant is 
loosened we find it disappointing, for the lower leaves are thinner and 
quite different in appearance. The stems are tangled and difficult to 
disengage. 

Callitriche verna is the commonest form, as well as the most easily 
established in the aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in shallow 
tanks where a top view can be had of the surface leaves. It should, how- 
ever, only be kept with tropical fishes unless it is intentionally given to 
goldfishes to eat, as they are fond of it. The stems and roots when taken 
are usually swarming with various aquatic insects and crustacea. 
Although many of these are good fishfood it is best to thoroughly rinse 
this and all other plants before placing in the aquarium. 


HIPPURIS 


Formerly used as an aquarium plant, Mare’s Tail has been over- 
looked of recent years, possibly on account of its tendency to stand above 
the water. Used in a suitable way this feature could be utilized to 
advantage. It transplants well and will thrive under varying conditions, 
but does best in ample light. Occurs in swamps from Labrador to 
Maine and also the Pacific Coast. 


MONEYWORT 


Lysmachia nummualaria or Moneywort is also known as Wandering 
Jew, Creeping Jenny and Herb-twopence, the latter name and Moneywort 
no doubt being derived from the rounded shape of the leaves. It is com- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 187 


Fic. 136. Mare's Tait (Life size) 
Fic. 137. Moneywort (Life size) 


188 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


mon in all the Eastern States, growing in damp places, usually near or 
bordering streams. Considering that it is scarcely even a bog plant it 
does remarkably well in the aquarium, where it grows straight up to the 
surface of the water, regardless of where the light comes from. It is a 
fair oxygenator, but if kept submerged the leaves gradually dwindle 
in size, so that it is best to gather a new stock once a year, August or 
September being the best season to secure vigorous plants. 


QUILLWORT 


Isoetes is a widely distributed genus of a number of species. It is 
found in the mud and sand at the edges of streams and ponds. In size it 


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Fic. 138. Quittwort (Reduced one-half) 


varies from a few inches to several feet. The small submerged species 
are worth trying in the aquarium, as they are tenacious of life. The 
leaves rise from the centre of a circle or rosette, producing a very pretty 
effect. Quillwort should be placed in a good light. It is eaten by some 
snails and fishes. : 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 189 


190 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


HETERANTHERA 


Heteranthera sosteracfolia is a very light green plant, slightly re- 
sembling Anacharis, but with longer, more widely separated leaves. It is 
a rapid grower, soon reaching the top, where it lays limp on the surface 
of the water. A good oxygenator, but has never become very popular on 
account of its rambling, untidy habits. Can occasionally be had of dealers. 


LACE PLANT 


This extraordinary plant, Ouciranda fenestralis, is a native of Mada- 
gascar. Its dark-green skeleton leaves appear very fragile, but in reality 
they are the toughest-leaved aquarium plant we know of. They are slow 


TDC CHE 


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jn Lh) | f \\ \. Fie. 140. Mapacascar Lace PLANT 


WW (Life size, half-grown) 


of growth and prefer a subdued light. Propagation is by division at the 
root. This sometimes takes place in the aquarium, but they do best in 
wooden tanks. At best they are slow growers which in a way is an ad- 
vantage, for they eventually become rather large. The Lace- or Lattice- 
leaf plant is used purely for ornamental purposes, its qualities as an oxy- 
genator being negligible. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 191 


Fic. 141. Water Popry (Reduced one-half) 


be) 
xe 


Fic. 142. Duckweep (Life size) 


Fic. 144. CrystaLtwort (Life size) 


WATER POPPY 


Limnocharis humboldti, owing to its generally satisfactory qualities, 
has become one of the most popular plants in the indoor and outdoor 
tank, as well as the large aquarium. It grows very rapidly and continu- 
ously sends out new plants which have groups of buds. Usually a new 
bud blooms every day. The 3-petaled yellow flower with a brown eye or 
centre only lasts a few hours but is a most pleasing and artistic feature. 
The parent plant should be potted, preferably not very deeply in the 
water. The new plants run at the surface, occasionally sending down 
strong stems to obtain a fresh rooting. 


192 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Floating Aquatics 


DUCKWEED > 


This commonest of all floating plants is found in several species in 
still pools everywhere. From the middle of summer until cold weather 
many ponds are completely covered with this green mantle, greatly in- 
terfering with the work of collecting daphnia for fish food. Duckweed 
itself is a good food for goldfishes large enough to eat it, and has a 
laxative effect beneficial to the finer breeds. The form most commonly 
found is Lemna minor. Propagation is by offshoot extensions. 


AZOLLA 


Azolla caroliniana is one of the less used of small floating aquatics. 
It is not in any way a brilliant plant but has a rather quaint charm. The 
leaves are of velvety appearance and range from a dull sage-green to 
dark red, according to age and the conditions of light. To be had of 
dealers. Native to the Southern States. 


CRYSTALWORT 


Riccia fluitans grows in masses in small, angular shapes, resembling 
crystal formation. It floats just beneath the surface and is valuable in 
the propagation of small tropical fishes, some depositing eggs in it, and 
the new-born young of the live-bearing varieties using it for hiding 
places. Native to the Eastern States and may be had of dealers in aquatics. 


Fic. 145. Satvinia (Life sisc) 
Fic, 146. Trranea (Slightly reduced) 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 193 


SALVINIA 


Of the small floating aquatics Salvinia is one of the best. The heart- 
shaped leaves with bristle-like growth on the upper surface seem like 
bits of velvet connected by a thread. The roots are naturally long for 
the size of the plant but fishes usually eat them down to about half length, 
which interferes with a full development of size. In the greenhouse 
where they have a moist atmosphere and no interference they develop 
with amazing rapidity. The variety illustrated, Salvinia natans, is native 
to Europe and is the form commonly used in aquaria and pools. 

Although it is claimed that neither Salvinia nor the common wild 
Duckweed perform any oxygenating function, the author and others 
have many times seen aquaria completely covered with either of these 
plants and, with no other plants in the aquarium, the fishes were getting 
along perfectly well. 


FROGBIT 


Hydrocharis morsus-rane, requiring the same conditions as Trianea 
bogotensis, deserves more attention than it is receiving. Of very 
pretty appearance when in flower, readily obtained from dealers, there is 


os 


Fic. 147. Frocpir (Life size) 


194 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


no reason why it should not be better known. As will be noted in Figure 
147 it propagates from runners, but the seeds also germinate under 
favorable conditions. The plant is of European introduction. 


TRIANEA 


Trianea bogotensis is an attractive, small floating plant with thick, 
heart-shaped leaves. It needs a moist warm atmosphere and not too 
much direct sun. Under these conditions it thrives and is a valued 
feature in the summer pool or greenhouse tank. It is not found locally 
in temperate climate but may be had of dealers. 


WATER FERN 


Not looking particularly fern-like, the Water Fern, Ceratopteris 
thalictroides, is the only truly aquatic species of the fern family. It is 
of comparatively recent introduction into the aquarium and indoor pool, 


Fic. 148. Water Fern (Reduced) 


it being more suited to the latter. In a partially shaded position in the 
greenhouse it grows into floating masses a foot or more in diameter, 
piling up to some height on account of its peculiar means of reproduction, 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 195 


the new plants springing directly out of the parent leaves, as is shown in 
Figure 148. Ordinarily the plants are about 6 inches in diameter and 
are of very pleasing appearance. Native to the Tropics around the world. 


WATER LETTUCE 


Pistia stratiotes is a floating plant with fluted, light-green velvety 
leaves, forming a rosette. It likes plenty of heat, a moist atmosphere and 
protection from the sun. Under favorable conditions it grows to a 


%, AAI 
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Fic. 149. Water Lettuce (Reduced one-quarter) 


diameter of about 4 inches or more and is decidedly pretty. The roots 
sometimes attain a length of 18 inches, but they are not sufficiently dense 
to use for spawning purposes. Multiplies rapidly in a congenial 
environment. 


WATER CHESTNUT 


Probably obtaining its popular name from the serrated edges of the 
leaves somewhat resembling those of the Chestnut tree, Trapa natans 
forms one of the pleasing varieties among floating aquatics. It is an 
annual doing well in exposed out-door positions. New plants are pro- 


196 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Fic. 149a. Water CHESTNUT 


duced each year from large, hard seeds. The big, black. two-horned seeds 
sometimes sold in Chinese stores are of a closely related species of Trapa. 
Can be had of dealers after May 15. 


WATER HYACINTH 


Although Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia, is considered a pest in its 
native habitat on account of clogging up rivers and lakes, it is none the 
less a favorite with the aquarist, especially the breeder of goldfishes. Its 
long, finely divided dense roots are admirable for receiving the eggs of 
any fishes that spawn on plants. The pale purple flower-spike only blooms 
for a single day but is quite beautiful, having the general form of its 
namesake, the Hyacinth. Propagation is by runners at the surface of the 
water. Figure 150 clearly shows this. Water Hyacinths do best if 
their roots can root or drag in soil. Outdoors they do not like to be 
blown about nor to strike against the sides of a tank, although apparently 
not minding how closely they are crowded together. This plant does 
well in a warm greenhouse the year round. Unless supplied with plenty 
of light and heat during the winter they degenerate very much. 


Fic. 150. Water HyacintH, SHowinc Detain oF FLowkR AND THE 
ForMaTION or A NEw PLAnt 


Fic. 151. Harpy Waite Water Lity (7uberosa richardsoni) 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 199 


WATER LILY CULTURE 


All fish pools or large tanks standing in the sun should have water 
lilies growing in them. They are of easy culture and not only give pro- 
tection to the fish but add greatly to appearances. Small or large varities 
may be had, according to the needs of the space. Water lilies are divided 
into the tender and hardy varieties. The tenders are more free-blooming 
and the day-blooming tenders are the most fragrant, as well as presenting 
the greatest range of color. They usually open in the fore part of the 
morning and close in mid afternoon. The night bloomers open in the 
evening and close about nine in the morning. They are not fragrant nor 
as elegant as the day-bloomers, but they are called the business man’s 
water lily because he can see them in bloom in the evening and in the 
morning. 

Water lilies need extremely rich soil. A mixture of half clay and 
half cow manure suits them very well. An inch top layer of sand will 
prevent any of this soil from getting into the water. The crown of the 
plant ‘should not be covered and ought to be about 12 to 14. inches below 
surface of the water. They need an abundance of sunlight. 

Before freezing weather sets in the tender plants should be taken 
up. Close to the main root will be found a few tubers about the size 
of shellbarks. These are the starts for next season’s plants. They are to 
be broken off and kept in cool water or moist sand. In April they may 
be laid in shallow, warm water until sprouted, then placed in submerged 
pots and later permanently planted out in June. 

Hardy water lily roots only need be kept moist and from actual 
freezing. In a pond they may be left out. In early Spring they form a 
number of new crowns. The parent root should be cut up into pieces, 
allowing a crown to each piece. Plant only one crown to a pot. Let 
all water lily pots be as large as space will permit. Most tenders will 
grow and bloom in a 7-inch bulb pan in an ordinary tub, but they are 
dwarfed from lack of space. They will do better in a box about a foot 
deep by thirty inches square, or in a hole 18 inches wide and 20 inches 
deep, as shown in Figure 163. Tropical water lilies have a surprising 
degree of intelligence in adapting themselves to the size of the pool they 
are in. The ordinary hardy water lilies if given as much space as they 
can use will have a surface diameter of about 4 feet. The usual tropicals 
vary from 10 to 15 feet, but will do well in pools of 6-foot diameter. 

In the maze of offerings and alluring descriptions of water lilies, 
the beginner is at a loss to know what to select. We present a list of 
the most satisfactory varieties in each class. Most of them sell at mod- 
erate prices and can be had of either of the two leading dealers, Dreer’s 
at Riverton, N. J., or Wm. Tricker, Arlington, N. J. 


290 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Hardy 


WuiteE: Gladstoniana, Marliacea albida, Richardsoni. 
Pink: Marliacea rosea. 

YELLOW: Marliacea chromatella. 

Rep: Paul Hariot, Gloriosa, Aurora, James Brydon. 


Tender Day-Blooming 


Waite: Gracilis. 

Pink: Mrs. C. W. Ward. 

BLue: Pennsylvania, Wm. Stone, Pulcherrima. 
Puree: Zanzibariensis. 


Tender Night-Blooming 


Waite: Dentata magnifica. 

Pink: O’Marana. 

Rep: Rubra, Devonensis. 
Winter-Blooming (Indoor) 


Bive: Mrs. Woodrow Wilson, Panama Pacific. 


Small Hardys 


Pygmaea (white), Pygmaea helvola (yellow), Laydeckeri lilacea 
(rosy lilac), Laydeckeri rosea (pink to red). 


OTHER POND PLANTS 
Lotuses (Nelumbiums) 


Album grandiflorum (white), Luteum (yellow), Speciosum (rose), 
Pekinensis (red). 

The culture of Nelumbiums requires more root-space than for water 
lilies. Planted in a shallow pond where they have plenty of space for the 
strong roots to branch out and travel, they prosper amazingly. They are 
hardy over winter, and if it is desired to confine them to a certain space 
or locality they should be boarded in or otherwise divided from the rest 
of the pond. The roots go several feet deep. The Lotus is one of the 
most beautiful of all decorative plants. Its magnificent leaves and flowers 
swaying majestically in the summer breezes give us an inkling of why 
the ancient Egyptians considered the plant sacred. 

Among the best of the bog and pond plants are Variegated Sweet 
Flag, Cape Pond Weed, Marsh Marigold, Umbrella Plant, Cyperus 
Papyrus, Water Arum, Pickerel Weed, Sagittaria japonica, Sagittaria 
montevidiensis, and Lizard’s Tail. 

Water Snowflake is one of the most charming of the small floating 
aquatics. White, star-like flowers of l-inch diameter are freely borne 
above the water. Parent plant should be rooted in soil near surface. 


Fic. 152. NELUMBIUM SEECIOSUM 


The Sacred Lotus of the Orient, from 4 to 7 feet in height, is easily 
the most magnificent of the aquatics with leaves and flowers above the water. 


Fie. 153. Prizewinninc Carico Comet GoLprisH 


Fig. 154. Prizewinnine Lionueap GoLprisu 


These two specimens show perhaps the greatest possible divergence of extremes 
in the accomplishments of fancy fish breeders. It is almost incredible that they are 
both derived from the same root stock. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 203 


Enemies of Aquatic Plants. The most serious enemies are musk- 
rats. These eat the roots of several hardy aquatics, particularly over the 


winter season. They are partial to the roots of the small yellow water 
lily, Pygmaea helvola. 


Fic. 155. Aguatic Cut-WorM 


A leaf-cutting worm (Hydrocampa), sometimes becomes quite a 
nuisance. It cuts a piece from the edge and, laying it on the leaf, attaches 
the two together and uses the two pieces as a cocoon. Loose bits of 

‘water lily leaves, Sagittaria, etc., observed floating around will, if pried 
apart, often be found to contain this white worm. The accompanying 
illustration is of life size. 


Chapter Sixteen 


Photographing Fishes 


206 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


PHOTOGRAPHING FISHES 


Achievements of modern photography have done much to lessen the 
difficulties of photographing living fish, although a picture good in every 
respect demands all the patience and care at one’s disposal. Exact 
photographic records are extremely interesting to the fancier, valuable 
to the scientist and form the only certain basis for noting the changes in 
the fancy breeds of goldfish. 


A high-grade lens that will work at F 6 or better and a shutter that 
will give an exposure of 1-25 second should be used. Sufficient length 
of bellows is needed so that the fish may be photographed about two- 
thirds life size. Sharp negatives can be had in this way and those which 
turn out well can be enlarged. Direct photography at life size is not 
practicable, as the depth of focus and power of the light are very much 
cut down at this close range. The chances of blurring by movement are 
greatly increased by attempting to photograph at life size. A photo- 
graphic plate size 5 x 7 is quite satisfactory for photographing goldfish. 
For the most of the tropicals, 4 x 5 is sufficient. The Graflex camera 
is very convenient, allowing one to focus up to the instant of exposure. 


To properly carry out this work a special photographing aquarium 
should be prepared. It should be seven inches deep, seven inches wide 
and two and one-half inches through from front to back. The front 
should be of 1%-inch plate glass. This is important. A white background 
for photographing dark subjects and a black for light ones will be 
needed. A piece of cardboard folded twice and stood on end immediately 
in back of the aquarium will be found to be satisfactory. The back may 
be painted with flat black to serve for the alternate background. If this 
is done the two creases should be stripped with tape so the board will not 
separate when the fold is reversed. To carry out the background effect 
completely, cut a piece of glass the size of the inside bottom of the 
aquarium. Paint one side white and the other black, using either -as 
required. The fish will frequently sink to the bottom, and if the back- 
ground is of the proper color throughout, the photograph can be as well 
miade there as higher in the water. 


A very important item is to have a movable glass partition so that 
the fish may be forced near the front glass and thus kept in focus. Thin 
brass forms to snap on either top end of the aquarium and leaving 
notches filed to held glass partition in position will be found most 
convenient. 


Fic. 156. PuotoGRAPHING AQUARIUM 


This aquarium was used in making all the photographic repro- 
ductions of fishes shown in this volume. Note glass partition for 
keeping subject in focus. 


Fic, 157. PRiZEWINNING CELESTIAL TELESCOPE GOLDFISH 


As well as being one of the most extraordinary appear- 
ing of goldfishes, the Celestial is also the most dithcult to 
breed and keep alive. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 209 


All the camera except lens should be covered with a black cloth 
at time of exposure to prevent its own reflection in the aquarium. The 
author believes that sunlight furnishes the best illumination, giving better 
color values and modelling than flashlight. Exposures should be made 
only on very bright days from eleven until two o'clock, and in the period, 
if possible, between April 10 and September 1. At other times flash- 
powder will be better, using a liberal supply. Care should be taken not 
to allow the dust from flashlight to settle in the aquarium, as it contains 
metallic salts injurious to fishes. Keep the sun on the subject and directly 
behind the camera. The water should be as free as possible of all par- 
ticles, as they show in the picture with annoying distinctness. Much 
patience is sometimes required to get a fish into a ‘satisfactory “pose,” but 
when a good picture is obtained, it is well worth all the trouble it costs. 


The photographing aquarium shown herewith was constructed by 
pouring cement in a form surrounding the four uprights. Just after the 
cement is poured, quarter-inch square sticks of wood should be pressed 
in where the glass is to stand. These are removed when cement is dry. 
Waterproof the base as described on page 216, then fill all four depressions 
and posts with aquarium cement and insert glass. Owing to small size 
cf aquarium it is best to do all cementing before any glass is inserted 
for it is impossible to satisfactorily reach inside. Only the front needs 
to be of plate glass. This should be inserted first and all surplus cement 
neatly cleared away. It will be noted that this style of construction has 
no bottom metal frame to interfere with photographing when the subject 
happens to be low, which is often the case. One part of cement to two 
of sand is a good proportion. White cement makes a pretty effect and 
when using a white background, no other inside reflector is needed. This 
aquarium was used in making the photographic illustrations of fishes in 
this volume. 


Unless the base immediately in front of the glass is of a dull black 
it will be desirable to cover it with a dull black or red cloth. Black is 
better. 


Chapter Seventeen 


Construction of Aquaria, 
Tanks and Ponds 


212 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION 


The amateur aquarist with a. little talent for things mechanical can 
find profit as well as pleasure in making an aquarium according to his 
own ideas and requirements. The few necessary tools either are, or ought 
to be, a part of every household equipment. 

Naturally the first consideration is that of the space to be occupied 
by the aquarium. In determining this it is well to be influenced, as far 
as conditions will permit, by the needs of the aquarium inmates. As to 
proportions, it will be found that most aquarium fishes do best in shallow 
aquaria with plenty of water surface. However, for artistic arrange- 
ment and symmetrical plant growth we must have a certain amount of 
depth. Twenty inches deep is sufficient even for large aquaria. In the 
smaller sizes, plants of suitable height can be secured. For all-round 
purposes, bearing in mind both the artistic and the useful, a good general 
rule is to make the aquarium in the form of a double cube. That is, the 
width and height identical, and the length twice that of either. Unless an 
aquarium is to be viewed only from the top, it is not advisable to make 
the width over 25 inches, as even a slight cloudiness of the water con- 
siderably obscures the fishes when there is so much of it to look through. 
Within reason, make the aquarium as large as possible, but nothing over 
a 70-gallon size is to be recommended for the household. An accidental 
breaking of the glass, even at this size, is too great a catastrophe to con- 
template with composure. Since it is very little more trouble to keep a 
large-sized aquarium than a small one, and the results are so much better, 
at least with goldfishes, we would unhesitatingly say to those weighing 
the merits of two sizes, take the larger. 


For a large variety of tropical fishes, a number of small aquaria will 
be found preferable. These will be treated of hereafter in the present 
chapter. 


After the considerations of size and proportions, which we have 


already touched upon, we will now take up in order the points of con- 
struction, laying particular emphasis on the factor of safety. 


Bases. The best material for general use in aquarium bases is slate. 
It is inexpensive, durable, easily worked, free from cleavage cracks, and 
in every way reliable. The requirements for thickness are from 34 inch 
for sizes up to 30 gallons, to 114 inches for 130 gallons. Polished Ten- 
nessee marble makes a handsome and durable base. White marble is too 
glaring and besides is easily chipped in moving an aquarium about. Also 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 213 


when brought into contact with aquarium cement it absorbs and spreads 
the oil, making a bad appearance. Bases of heavy white pine, strongly 
cross-battened, have been used with success, but the wisdom of using a 
wooden base is open to serious question, especially as wide, thick pine 
boards can scarcely be had any more, even at high prices. The ever- 
present danger of warping either from a leak or the weather, or again 
from bending due to continuous heavy pressure are considerations weigh- 
ing against the wooden base. If an all-wood frame is used, it is desirable 
to line the bottom with a sheet of glass, preferably wired, embedding it 
in soft aquarium cement at the edges, and at several supporting spots 
near the centre. The same plan is to be recommended in aquaria with 
solid metal bases, in order to keep iron rust out of the water. 


Aquarium bases usually extend from one to one and one-half inches 
beyond the frames on all sides. Slate or marble bases ought to be bev- 
elled sufficiently on the upper edges and corners to take away the sharp- 
ness. The necessary holes through which the frame is to be clamped on 
can be drilled with an ordinary metal drill, but it costs very little extra 
to have the slate-worker do this when he is finishing the base. Aquaria 
up to 10 gallons require 4 bolts, 20 gallons 6, and for the larger sizes 
they should be placed about 10 inches apart. 


Frame Metals. Angle brass, iron or aluminum form the best metal 
aquarium frames. For the amateur worker, brass offers the best advan- 
tages. It is easily sawed, drilled and soldered, besides making a handsome 
appearance when polished and lacquered or nickel-plated. If nickeled it 
should be heavily coated. Angle iron is not so attractive in appearance, 
but is undoubtedly more rigid. It cannot be soldered. Consequently the 
four corners of the upper and lower frames have to be riveted through 
connecting elbow pieces on the inside or special castings on the outside, 
and then the whole riveted to the uprights. Aluminum has seldom been 
used, but makes an attractive frame. As the soldering of this metal is 
of doubtful durability it is safer to rivet the same as with iron. 


For aquaria up to 25 gallons, 54-inch angle metal is suitable; up 
to 50 gallons, 34 inch; up to 75 gallons, 1 inch; up to 125 gallons, 1% 
inch. The author prefers seeing as little of the frame as possible and 
for ten years has successfully used a 60-gallon aquarium constructed with 
only 5%-inch angle brass, but he would not care to make this as a general 
recommendation. It is mentioned so that if others have the same idea 
they will know that it is a mechanical possibility. 

Unless constructed of heavy angle iron it is best to carry a light rod 
across short dimension of the centre of top frame of aquaria over 30 
inches in length, to prevent bulging by water pressure. 


214 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Frame Construction. A hack-saw with fine teeth for metal-work- 
ing will be needed to cut the proper lengths of angle metal. After care- 
fully determining proportions desired, cut the four uprights and then the 
material for top and bottom frames. If working in brass the latter should 


1 


“ic! 


| 
el 


Fic. 158. Cut, PREPARATORY TO BENDING ANGLE Brass 


each be left in one piece. By accurately bevelling the two ends and prepar- 
ing right-angle cuts at three points as shown in figure 158, the whole can be 
bent into a frame that will produce very neat corners and make soldering 
easy. The right-angle cuts should be finished with a square file and car- 
ried within about 1/32 inch of going through. This leaves the bar very 
weak at these points and considerable care is necessary in handling in 
order that some accident does not break them apart before it is time to 
bend. If one breaks it is not a very serious matter, only the corner will 
not have quite such a neat appearance. In practise we find it best to bend 
each cut as soon as finished and roughly fasten with solder. When all 


Fic, 159. FRAME SECURED AROUND WoopEN ForM. Note RE-INFORCEMENT IN ONE 
CORNER 


three bends have been completed, place within it a wooden form as shown 
in figure 159, Except for the corners being cut off (to allow for solder- 
ing) the edges of form should be perfectly rectangular and fit closely. 
Now secure quite firmly with stout twine. After all corners are trued 
up with the board, apply the permanent solder. Melt solder from any 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 215 


corner that does not stand true without forcing. In the upper-right cor- 
ner of our illustration will be noted a right-angle flange reinforcement, 
cut from a flat piece of 1/16-inch brass. It is advisable to use these. 
They add greatly to the strength and actually make the work of solder- 
ing easier. After preparing the surfaces with solder-flux it is only neces- 
sary to place solder on the frame, lay the flange on top of it and apply 
torch beneath. When solder melts, press flange down and into exact 
position with a small stick of wood. It is better to have flanges suffi- 
ciently narrow to allow the uprights to fit in back of them. 

The same form can be used for upper and lower frames. Should there 
be any irregularity in shape they will both be alike, and so far as strength 
is concerned, it will only be necessary to keep corresponding defective 
corners parallel with each other, so as not to make any twisting strain on 
the glass—a force which, sooner or later, will cause it to break. If the 
frame is too large for a board, it may be trued by lines drawn to lay it 
over. The use of forms, however, is so desirable to the amateur that 
we recommend having boards rabbited together in order to secure ‘suff- 
cient width. 


To test the squareness of upper and lower frames, lay them on the 
floor, make marks at the corners and turn completely over, trying both 
length and width in this way. Tests by squares at corners are only 
approximate, as the angle metal is seldom perfectly straight, especially 
lighter brass. Before leaving the subject of bending the frames to right- 
angles we strongly suggest that an experimental bend first be made with 
a waste piece of angle brass. A little practise will be necessary to learn 
just how thin a particular lot of brass must be filed in order to make a 
good bend. 


The next step is to bore holes in the lower frame where it is to be 
bolted through the base, countersinking for depression of bolt or rivet 
head, and allowing enough room not to interfere with the glass. Now 
solder in uprights at perfect right angles to inside of top and bottom 
frames, being careful not to use enough heat to melt former soldering. 


It will be observed that the glass will be supported by the upright 
posts but not by the top nor bottom frames. This is corrected by soldering, 
about every eight inches, a small piece of brass (cut from the same ma- 
terial) to the horizontal frames next to where the glass is to come, thus 
giving it even support on all four edges. The pieces are soldered down 
perfectly flat and if high should be filed down. Before the glass is finally 
inserted it must be laid in the frame to see that the points of contact are 
even, Deficiencies can be made up by a drop of solder on the brass, and 
filed down as required. 


216 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


The frame being trued up it is now bolted through the base, aquarium 
cement being liberally supplied in the bolt holes and between the frame 
and the base, all surplus being immediately wiped away. 


Soldering. The ordinary amateur is equipped neither with the fa- 
cilities nor the experience to use a soldering iron to advantage. The 
author has engaged in considerable aquarium construction and has usu- 
ally been able to get along very well without an iron, its main use being 
to clear surplus solder away more quickly than can be done with a file. 
Before soldering, the surface is properly prepared by scraping and the 
application of a flux composed of hydrochloric acid which has dissolved 
as much zinc as possible. An alcohol blow-torch is satisfactory for small 
work, but for the heavier construction a gasoline torch is better. When 
the heat is applied and the liquid of the flux has boiled away, touch the 
heated surface occasionally with soft solder wire. Apply a little more 
heat after first sign of melting, withdraw flame and proceed to quickly 
solder. Where work is in a position so that it is difficult to hold the 
pieces steadily in place while solder cools, an assistant can instantly “set” 
it by pouring on a little water. If acid flux darkens the hands where it 
touches, the stain can be removed by dilute ammonia water. 


Small Aquaria. Very compact, neat and substantial aquaria can be 
made in the foregoing manner, but without projecting base—in fact with- 
out slate at all. The bottom is self-contained concrete. The top frame 
and upright corner posts are of 14-inch angle brass, and the bottom frame 
of l-inch size. In the inside edges of this are soldered a few brass 
screws. Now prepare a mixture of one part of Portland Cement to 
two of clean sand, brought to a thick, mushy consistency by addition of 
water. Lay the frame on a good, flat piece of glass and pour in the 
cement to a depth of 34 inch, seeing that it lays smooth, particularly 
where the glass is to rest. 


After the cement is poured and smoothed it should be covered to be 
allowed to dry slowly. In about two days the frame and base can be slid 
off the glass. The screws soldered on inside will always hold the base 
securely in place. To prevent free chemicals washing out of cement into 
the aquarium water it is well to waterproof the inside of base before set- 
ting glass in. This may be done by melting chips of paraffine under the 
alcohol blow-torch, or by pouring on a mixture of paraffine dissolved in 
warm gasoline. To prepare this mixture place a quart bottle of gasoline in 
a butcket of warm water. Add two ounces of paraffine chips and stir until 
dissolved. Keep the solution warm and saturate the base with it. When 
dry, place in glass as in an ordinary aquarium. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 217 


(The foregoing mixture of gasoline-paraffine will waterproof wood, 
concrete, brick, fabrics or anything that will absorb it. For fabrics to be 
used or bent, use only one ounce of paraffine.) 


After making one of these aquaria the knack becomes very easy. 
A row of them of uniform size presents a neat appearance and can be 
used in small space, since there is no projecting base. This style of con- 
struction is suitable for aquaria with bases up to eleven by eighteen inches. 
In larger sizes the uprights and top angles ought to be from five-eights to 
three-quarter inch metal, while heavy wire screen should be embedded in 
the cement for re-inforcement. 

If the frames are to be nickeled this should be done before pouring 
the cement base. 


Glass for Aquaria. Although double-thick window glass may be 
used for aquaria up to the 25 gallon size, plate-glass is so much hand- 
somer and costs s0 little more, it seems like a wise investment. If window- 
glass is used, the imported kinds will be found best. Plate-glass is now 
made in 3-16 inches thickness. This is suitable for aquaria under 50 gal- 
lons. For those for 50 to 75 gallons, the best thickness is 14 inch, and for 
the still larger sizes up to 120 gallons, 34 inch. The author and others 
have occasionally picked up bargains in plate-glass from plate-glass 
insurance concerns, who often have on their hands large remnants of 
bulk-windows. 


Setting the Glass. The edges of the glass should be carefully 
cleaned with whiting, ammonia or alcohol to remove any grease. It is well 
to first coat the edges which are to come into contact with the cement 
with gold size, allowing this to set for a day or two. This is more 
particularly needed with large plate-glass aquaria. Apply a liberal coating 
of aquarium cement to the inside of frame, and a thin but well covered 
coat to the contact edges of the glass. Press into place slowly but firmly, 
cleaning away at once all surplus cement. Light sticks cut of a length 
to brace across inside of aquarium will maintain an outward pressure 
on the glass for several days until it is fairly set. After the glass is well 
set it is advisable, especially with the larger sizes, to run a line of aqua- 


rium cement up the inside corners and along the bottom edges, covering 
with a narrow strip of glass, or, better, embedding a glass rod of from 


Y{ to 3-inch diameter in it, pressing in as far as possible and wiping 
away the surplus cement. 

Fill slowly in about a week and change water several times in two 
weeks before putting in fishes. 

Large aquaria nearly always leak a little at first, or after moving 
them, or even after emptying without moving. This usually corrects 


218 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


itself within a few days, but, as elsewhere directed, it can nearly always 
be stopped by making the water very muddy. The particles of dirt get 
into the leak and choke it up. 


Aquarium Cements. The prime requisites of an aquarium cement 
are resistence to water, adhesiveness, moderately quick setting without 
ever becoming stone-hard, and being non-poisonous. A cement com- 
bining these qualities is composed of one pound of litharge, one pound of 
Plaster of Paris, two ounces of powdered resin and one-half pound of 
glazier’s sand; mixed with boiled linseed oil to a consistency of putty suit- 
able for glazing. This cement has been found to be good for both fresh 
and marine water aquaria. A durable cement for those who cannot 
obtain very fine sand is made of equal parts by weight of zinc white, 
whiting and litharge, mixed with boiled linseed oil to a firm but tacky 
consistency. 


CEMENT FOR Marine Aguarra. A cement used for large, city 
marine aquaria is composed of 3 parts by measurement of Portland 
Cement, 3 parts fine white sand, 1 part powdered resin; mixed with 
boiled linseed oil. 


CEMENT FOR WoopEN-FRaAMED AQguaRIA. The best cement for 
small wooden-framed aquaria is made of 1 part of gutta percha and 4 
parts of pitch, boiled together and applied warm, first heating the glass 
somewhat. It is difficult to handle this quickly enough on large aquaria, 
for which the following will be found better: 3 parts Portland Cement, 
2 parts zinc white, 3 parts fine sand, 1 part powdered resin, made into a 
firm paste with boiled linseed oil. 


CONCRETE AQUARIA 


The making of concrete aquaria opens a new and an unlimited field. 
Those who have felt that the metal-frame aquarium is hopelessly restricted 
and commonplace can here find more room for individual expression, 
design and achievement. The illustration facing title page gives an idea of 
possibilities along this line. The aquarium shown is one designed and 
built by Mr. L. M. Dorsey and probably represents the highest develop- 
ment, up to this time, of artistic ideas as applied to a household aquarium. 
In the Philadelphia Aquarium Society annual competition Mr. Dorsey 
was awarded the prize cup three times, thereby becoming its permanent 
possessor. 

As individual ideas will vary so widely in the design of concrete 
aquaria, only a few (yet important) directions can be given. Cement 
should be of the highest grade, fresh and free from lumps. A mixture 
of one part cement to two of clean, sharp sand is about right. Wooden 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 219 


forms ought to be soaked with water just before using, or else thoroughly 
paraffined. Cement mixture should be wet enough to just pour, and 
needs to be well tamped to avoid bubbles. Re-inforcement rods (%4 inch 
diameter) are essential, especially around the top edge, where a con- 
tinuous band should be formed. Over the bottom the bars should be 
wired together, forming 4-inch squares. Do not be in a hurry to get the 
forms off. The whole job should be moistened for a day and allowed to 
stand for two more days if their removal is going to cause any Strain. 
Glass must not be embedded directly in the concrete, but provision made 
for later setting it in with ordinary aquarium cement. If sides do not 
support the glass evenly they should be cut away or built up until they 
do. Otherwise glass is sure to crack when the soft aquarium cement 
yields to the water pressure. After base is finished it is well to paraffine 
it as described on page 216. All cement pouring should be done at one 
operation. 


CONSTRUCTION OF WOODEN TANKS 


Many expert fanciers are of the opinion that for the welfare of fishes 
there is no receptacle equal to a well-seasoned wooden tank. For breeding 
purposes they are especially valuable, but in no case should tanks be used 
before numerous changes of water have been made over a period of 
several weeks. 


Fic. 160. Wooven Breepinc TANK 


220 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


The best wood for tanks is well-seasoned cypress, the natural habitat 
of the tree being in wet places. Any size tank may be made, but there are 
two sizes found quite convenient and which cut to good advantage out of 
the lumber. The larger measures 16 inches high, 30 inches wide and 48 
inches long. The smaller one measures 9 inches high, 24 inches wide and 
32 inches in length. For the larger size 114-inch lumber is used, which 
is about 11% inches when dressed. Here a board 16 inches wide is used, 
avoiding seams in any of the sides, and being but one in the bottom. The 
side and bottom boards are rabbeted to 14 inch deep and 114 inches from 
edge to receive the ends. Bottom boards are tongued and grooved. All 
joints should receive a preliminary coating of white lead paint. After this 
is dried a thicker coat should be applied just before putting joints together. 
The tank is then clamped and 134-inch screws inserted through the sides 
into the bottom and ends, and through the bottom into the ends. Cleats 
3 inches wide are placed across centre of bottom and all the way around 
the ends. Through the top of latter is passed an iron rod 4 inch thick, 
then secured ‘and tightened with washer and nut at ends. The smaller 
tank is constructed in the same manner, except that cleat across centre 
bottom and the iron rods are omitted. 

While painting the outside improves the appearance, it has more of a 
tendency to rot a tank than preserve it, as the paint prevents the evapora- 
tion of the moisture naturally gathered from the inside. Leaks will usually 
correct themselves in a few days, but should they not do so, a few hand- 
fulls of earth stirred in the water and allowed to stand a few hours will 
make the job tight. Occasional stirring of the dirty water helps. The 
white lead should be allowed a day to harden before filling with water. 


CONSTRUCTION OF TANKS AND POOLS 


For outdoor purposes it is better to dig holes in the ground and 
puddle them with clay rather than make poorly constructed concrete 
basins or pools of any size. Unless the work is properly done the frost 
is certain to crack it, and even the weight of the water may be sufficient 
to bring about this result. Repaired work is never satisfactory, and the 
next winter will open more seams, making continual expense, dissatis- 
faction, loss of water and of fishes. With indoor concrete tanks too, 
thorough construction is a good investment. 

The main points in the construction of such work are good foun- 
dations, thorough reinforcement, good cement properly mixed, and one 
continuous job of the finishing coat. The concrete centre ought also be 
poured within the space of one day. There is some difference of opinion 
as to the necessity for a base of cinders. The author favors them. If 
used they should be the hard kind, wetted down and packed solid to a 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 221 


depth of one foot or more. For tanks of moderate size—say 11 x 22 
feet—reinforcement should be by use of 14-inch steel rods, crossed on 
squares of 8 inches. The bottom needs two layers of these bars, one near 
the upper and one near the lower surface. This protects against both 


Fic. 161. CorrecT ARRANGEMENT OF REINFORCING STEEL, AND GALVANIZED IRON 
Form For WaTER Lity Pot 


Fic. 162. Woopven Form REApy FOR CONCRETE POURING 


The dotted blocks represent bricks or stones to hold inside form to same height 
as the outside. Note slope of inside form. 


222 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


inside and outside pressures. The lower frame of bars is bent up at 
the ends to form a cradle, thus reinforcing the side walls. The ends are 
finally again bent over at right angles, running in the direction of the 
wall, and laced together. Above this are two continuous bands of the 
steel. Figures 161 and 163 will indicate these points. The corners are 
always the weakest points. As the concrete is poured, lay in extra 
right-angle pieces of 12 inches total length. 

The pouring of the concrete makes a great strain on the forms. 
These need to be thoroughly braced in the beginning, for it is impossible 
to improvise means of looking after these points, once the work has 
started and the walls have bulged or the corners sprung. The outside 
bottom stakes are merely driven into the ground and not otherwise 
fastened. Outside corners in addition to being nailed are secured by 
pieces of tin, nailed through. Inside corners are held by iron elbows 
(to be had at hardware stores). They are secured by screws. The nails 
fastening side-cleats should be driven through and turned over. Concrete 
walls had best be thicker at the bottom, putting all the slope on the inside. 
A good inside depth for ordinary purposes is 15 inches, filling to 13% 
inches with water. If an overflow is to be made through side, make a 
core of soft wood and saturate it with water so that it will contract upon 


Fic. 163. Cross-section or Fin1sHep Poor 


The lowest layer represents cinders. We have indicated here the upper layer 
of re-inforcement in the base, impossible to show in Fig. 161. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 223 


drying. For outdoor pools an inside slope of 2 inches is about right. 
This would be, for a 7x 9-foot pool, a top thickness of 4 inches, with 
6 inches at the bottom. Base, 6 inches thick. For larger sizes add 1 inch 
of thickness to walls and base. Indoor pools require no slope. In mak- 
ing all calculations, allow 3% inch for thickness of finishing coat. The 
forms should be levelled up and made absolutely true in the beginning. 
It is a bad plan to depend upon the finishing coat to correct inaccuracies. 
It seldom does it. Some considerable care is necessary to establish the 
four corners at perfect level. Select one corner and measure each of 
the other three from that. If the spirit-level is attached to a board, 
its trueness should be tested by reversing the ends. In any case the 
level should be reversed on each test. 

The concrete is mixed 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts 34-inch 
crushed stone or round stone. This is poured to within Y inch of top 
of form, beginning with the base and must be well tamped to avoid 
bubbles and open spots. Those wishing to secure the best possible 
results first place a thin skin of cement over the cinders so the water in 
concrete will not seep into the cinder base, it being desirable that all 
concrete work dry slowly in order to crystallize perfectly. This prelim- 
inary skin is as thin as possible and is applied the day before. It is com- 
posed half each of sand and cement. If this is used, the lower layer 
of re-inforcement may be laid directly upon it. 


Fic. 166 


Fig. 164. Tile Seton Cement Mound. Fig. 165. Top Finishing Coat Brought to Level of Form, Fig. 166. Guide-board 
in Position for Inside Finishing Coat (Whether or not tiles are used, this is the best method of finishing) 
Finishing coat should be applied within 24 hours, and is made 1 part 
cement, 2 parts sand. Finish one side at a time, top edge first, inside 
surface next, then outside, and the bottom after 4 sides are complete. 
Begin by filling to top of form. Now take off inside form from one 
side only. Lay a piece of perfectly straight board along top edge. This 
makes an infallible gauge for thickness and straightness of finishing coat 
(Figure 166). Here we might say that it is advisable to have an experi- 
enced finisher do this work, but a resourceful amateur can do it. Now 
do the outside in the same manner, the idea here being to have the top 
bind with the sides while fresh. The outside being done last is less likely 
to be kicked. Try to protect the job from rapid drying in the sun. 


204 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


It is very nice to sink a hole in the centre for the reception of a 
water lily plant. This adds considerably to the planning and labor, but 
the result is worth it in satisfaction if one is fond of beautiful aquatics. 
At the same time the bottom can be drained towards the centre, a good 
point when it comes to the annual cleaning-out. Figure 163 shows this. 
The hole ought to be about 18 inches wide at the top, 15 at the bottom 
and 17 deep. The galvanized iron form is removed by bending it inwards 
at one point. This form is of thin metal and has no bottom, it being 
impossible to withdraw a bucket on account of suction. 

Another added attraction for those caring for the aesthetic side is 
the addition of tiles in the edges. To try to push these into the finishing 
coat is to court certain trouble and a botch job. As soon as the concrete 
is poured the tiles should be set on little mounds of cement as indicated 
in Figure 164, seeing that they come to exactly the right level, fixing the 
four corner ones first. Next day the finishing coat is filled around them 
and they help to establish the correct level. The cement will slop over 
on them a little, but this is no matter. Most of it can be wiped off with 
water and the balance after drying, with dilute hydrochloric acid. 

The author is not partial to drain-pipes. They may become dislodged 
and let the tank run dry, or, on the other hand, they may get sand in them 
and not go back into place. However, this is a matter of personal pref- 
erence. 

In two days after the finishing coat is applied, a little water may be 
run in. On the fourth day fill completely. All cement containers should 
be seasoned before the fishes are introduced. 

This can be done by changing the water six times over a period of 
two weeks. This is not thorough and a longer time is better. Seasoning 
can be accelerated by different chemical processes. The safest is to fill 
the pool and slake a large piece of lime in it. In a pool 8 x 12 feet, slake 
about half a bushel. There is no danger of using too much. After slak- 
ing, stir every few hours and clean out thoroughly in two days. Another 
method is to place a piece of blue litmus paper (obtainable in drug store) 
in the water after it has stood a day and been stirred up. Then slowly 
add and stir in commercial sulphuric acid until the paper shows a faint 
pink hue. Allow to stand another day and if the paper goes back to blue, 
repeat addition of acid. When the pink shade remains draw off water, 
clean thoroughly and use. Enough acid to turn the paper a distinct pink 
or red should not be used. Always stir water well before determining 
color of paper. This test is only for the acid process. 

Aquarium or Tank Capacity. To ascertain the gallon capacity of 
any rectangular tank, multiply the length, breadth and depth together in 
inches. Divide by 231. The result will be in gallons. 

A gallon weighs 8 1-3 pounds. 


Fic. 167. FixtsHep Poot, SHowinc SUNKEN LiLy Pot AND OVERFLOW 


Fic. 168. Same in Use, With Tropica, AND Pigmy Litres 1x Bloom 


Fic. 169. “Queen Lin,” a MANyY-TIME PRIZEWINNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE 
(GOLDFISH 


4 


Chapter Eighteen 


Aquarium Appliances 


228 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


AQUARIUM APPLIANCES 


Nets. The most important device in aquarium work is a net with 
which to catch the fish, yet in most instances it is of faulty construction. 
The scales of a fish are easily knocked off by the hard knots in the coarse 


a) 
<5 


KS 
Fics. 170 anp 171. Proper Nets ror GOLDFISHES AND YOUNG TROPICALS 


threads composing nets usually sold. This is very bad for the fish. A 
far better material is Brussels netting of a mesh such as is used on 
window curtains—not too fine. 

When fish have to be caught from a globe, a round net is con- 
venient, but for a straight-side aquarium, a square or oblong net is very 
much better. Usually these cannot be purchased, but to make one is a 
simple matter and well repays for the effort. Perhaps the easiest way 
is to purchase a round net, remove netting, bend wires to an oblong form 
and re-cover with Brussels netting. 


Glass Cleaners. The best device for cleaning the inside glass of 
straight aquaria is a safety razor blade secured in a stick and riveted 
through. First rivet or wrap end of stick with fine copper wire to prevent 


Fic. 172. Sarety Razor BLape AQuARIUM GLASS CLEANER 


splitting, place razor blade firmly in iron vise and drive down stick to 
proper point. A blade may be used directly in the hand, but in this case 
it is better to dull one edge first in order to avoid cutting the fingers. 

A dime rubbed flat against the glass will clean it. For cleaning 
globes a piece of thick felt is very good, although any piece of clean 
fabric will do. 


Dip Tube. Sometimes particles of food remain too long after feed- 
ing. Also dirt collects in spots. Such places can easily be cleaned by 
use of a dip tube. Any tube of from one-quarter to three-eighths inch 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 229 


inside diameter and about six inches longer than the depth of the 
aquarium will do. Glass is preferable. Hold the thumb firmly over one 
end, place other end near particles to be lifted. Remove thumb, allowing 
water and particles to rush into tube. Replace thumb, lift out and empty. 
The capacity of the tube can be considerably increased by heating the 
centre over a Bunsen flame and blowing a sort of belly. 


Siphon. When much dirt needs to be removed or the aquarium 
emptied, a siphon should be used. This consists simply of a hose 
sufficiently long to reach from the bottom of the aquarium, up over the 
edge and down again to a point near the floor. The longer the drop, the 
more rapid the flow. Fill tube with water, close both ends by finger 
pressure, insert one end in the aquarium and hold the other as low as 
possible. Release the ends of tube and the water will flow as long as 
there is water in the aquarium at a higher point than the discharging 
end of tube. Care should be taken not to draw in fish or snails. 


Forceps. A pair of forceps for aquarium work forms a most handy 
tool. Their construction is very simple. Take a piece of 1%-inch brass 
wire thirty inches long and bend to shape shown in Figure 173. Where 
the wire crosses, hammer out a small flat space through which a rivet 


Fic. 173. Aguarium Forceps 


can be fastened. A small section of brass wire or a copper tack can be 
used as a rivet. When the forceps are otherwise completed, flatten out 
the ends by hammeiing on an iron vise or other firm surface. The jaws 
of the forceps automatically remain open. Pressure on the upper loop 
closes them. They will be found quite handy in adjusting plants and 
lifting out snails, stones or other small objects. 


Planting Sticks. To secure the roots of plants in sand would 
seem a very simple matter, but when the aquarium is filled it is most 
difficult to set them without the help of one or two planting sticks. These 
are as simple as they are useful, being merely thin sticks with a dull 


SaaS SSS SS 


Fic. 174. PLrantine Stick 


notch in the end. About three-eighths of an inch is a suitable size 
diameter for the sticks. The notch should be slightly rounded on the 
edges to avoid cutting the roots as they are forced into the sand. Two 


230 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


sticks are better than one. Plants like Giant Sagittaria should be pressed 
down from two sides. After the plant is placed to the proper depth, it 
should be held with one stick while the other is used to push sand over 
the roots and to press down straggling roots which have not been covered. 
Aquariums should not be planted while filled, but sometimes a few plants 
tide loose on the first filling or some are added later. For such occasions 
planting sticks are most handy. A pair of rulers will do for an emer- 
gency. Almost anything is better than the fingers. 


Scissors. A pair of scissors with a 15-inch rod securely wrapped 
to each handle is useful for trimming dead leaves from plants. With this 


Fic. 175. Aguarium Scissors 


tool plants can be reached without disturbing anything, and one can get 
a better view of what is to be done than when working elbow-deep in 
the water. 


Live-bearing Jars. With most varieties of viviparous (live-bear- 
ing) fishes it is desirable to promptly separate the mother and other fish 
from the young in order that they will not be eaten. One simple method 
is to take a glass funnel about six inches across the top, file a nick where 
base joins tube, break off tube and place a small piece of U-shaped wire 


Fics. 176 anp 177. Sipe ann Tor Views or ALL-GLass BREEDING Jars, SHOWING 
Escare Suit 


in the opening so that the wire divides the hole in half. The funnel is 
then placed in a bell jar or other aquarium of a size that will suspend it 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 231 


by the edge, bring the water as high as possible in funnel, place female 
fish in funnel and cover over with screen. The wire will prevent the 
mother fish from becoming jammed in the outlet, but will allow the young 
to pass through and collect in the lower portion of jar. 

Very excellent breeding glasses come from Germany. These have 
a long narrow slit in the bottom and may be hooked on the inside of any 
receptacle. See Fig. 177. 


Spawning Net. In the spawning season aquarium space is often 
limited, particularly among amateur breeders who have perhaps a single 
aquarium. The breeding fish should be separated from the others, as the 
idle fish would eat the spawn. An easy way over this difficulty is the 


S ‘YY Yi 

Vy yy 
ach, ao Z 
a yy Ve 


UG Lue y, i 
Fic. 178. Spawninc NET 


use of the spawning net. This is simply a square bag of cheesecloth sus- 
pended in the aquarium. Figure number 178 will clearly show how this 
may be done. The four corners should be weighted down with bits of 
lead or stone sewed in. The plants and spawning fish are simply trans- 
ferred into the net. Confined in this comparatively small space the 
chances of the eggs becoming fertilized are increased, while the netting 
is sufficiently open to allow the aquarium water to flow slowly through 
it and prevent suffocation. In this way the large amount of dirt usually 
stirred up in an aquarium at spawning time, and which can do the 
adhesive eggs no good, is entirely avoided. The size of the net will 
depend somewhat on the proportions of the aquarium, but the capacity 


to 


oo 
) 


GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


of net (portion in water) should be about twelve to eighteen inches long, 
ten inches wide and ten inches deep. In constructing, allow extra 
material for space between top frame and surface of water. 


Constant Aquarium Filter. This device is for use in connection 
with the air pump referred to on page 10. It is capable of a number of 
variations, once the principle is understood. There are two columns of 
water in the tubes, one solid and one punctuated by air bubbles, thereby 
making it the lighter. This causes it to rise and therefore establish cir- 
culation as long as air is supplied. A 34-inch diameter glass surgical drain 
is shown at A. This should contain about eight small openings and be 
suspended two inches above the sand. This is connected by a short piece 
of rubber tubing to the rest of the system, which is of glass tubing from 
5/16 to 3% inch inside diameter. The dark sections represent rubber 
joints, making the system more flexible, less liable to breakage, less ex- 
pense in case of break and makes cleaning of each section easy. (The 
tubes require an annual cleaning.) Air is injected under pressure at C, 
which should be five inches above lowest point of pipes. This starts the 
flow, which is discharged into D, a small filter suspended in the corner of 
the aquarium, and just above water level. It may be made of glass, alumi- 
num, porcelain or eathenware, and should approximate in size five inches 
in diameter by two deep, the bottom having a few perforations. The best 
filtering medium in this work is absorbent cotton, which should be laid 
on a few pebbles, glass bars or bits of charcoal for good drainage. The 
force of air and the distance between C and the surface of water deter- 
mines the speed at which the water travels. The lower the point at which 
air is injected, the greater the speed. To start the system, disconnect at B, 
suck with the lips to start siphon, re-connect while water is running. After 
water in rise tube has reached aquarium level, turn on air-cock at C. This 
cock should always be closed when air is not wanted and pump not work- 
ing, in order to prevent water backing up into air pipe. All rubber joints 
should be tightly secured by wrapping with thread or narrow strips of 
electric tape. Rubber cement spread on connecting surfaces helps make a 
good job. If there is danger of glass tubes being broken it is best to use 
pipe of block tin. For salt water, use glass or lead. 


Instead of filtering at top of aquarium it is possible to pass the water 
through a big, large-necked bottle of sand at the lowest point of dip. Both 
tubes pass through a rubber cork, the dirty water being carried to bottom 
of bottle, discharged in a layer of pebbles, brought upwards through fine 
sand and taken off by rise pipe just inside of cork. The sand should not 
quite fill bottle. Cork must be securely tied down. This is a nice arrange- 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 233 


ment, but was abandoned by the writer owing to the trouble of discon- 
necting everything and washing sand every ten days, which was necessary 
owing to clogging. In top filter the cotton must be changed every two 
days, but this can be done in a few seconds. 


This arrangement both filters and aerates the water. If filtering is 
not needed, the filter can be removed and aeration will go on. 


> 


DO oo 


BS 
Fic. 179. Water CIRCULATION BY AIR PRESSURE 


Water can be raised by this method from fifteen to twenty-five inches 
above level. To secure the greater height, use 14-inch inside diameter 
tube, take plenty of drop and allow eight inches from lowest point to C. 
By this means and a little ingenuity a return fountain can be made. To 
secure a uniform flow it would require a small tank to receive the dis- 
charge from the pipe, and from this an overflow to aquarium in case the 
water supply comes too rapidly for discharge rate of fountain. 


It is not necessary to carry pipes over edge of aquarium as shown in 
diagram; they may be carried through the bottom, carrying dirty water 
directly down. The rise tube should be brought up through inside, over 
edge of filter. Short pieces of tubing long enough to reach above the 
sand and to extend an inch below the aquarium base should be used for 
passing through the slate. A very effective means of securing these in 


234 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


permanent position is to melt by alcohol blow-torch some chips of gum 
shellac. This melting is done in the aquarium directly around the tube 
and is continued until a small mound is formed. A piece of wet cardboard 
will protect nearby glass from the heat. Gum shellac has perfect 
resistance to water. It will adhere to almost anything and is of especial 
value in connecting glass to metal. When cool it is quite hard. 


Chapter Nineteen 


Forty Don'ts 


GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


to 
[oe] 
fon) 


FORTY DON’TS 


Don't overfeed. 

Don’t overstock. 

Don’t inbreed too long. 

Don’t use very deep aquaria. 

Don’t delay treating sick fishes. 

Don't start with expensive fishes. 

Don't allow dead leaves to accumulate. 

Don’t use fishglobes except temporarily. 

Don’t attempt to move filled large aquaria. 

Don’t neglect to look fishes over carefully. 

Don’t fail to replace covers on tropical aquaria. 

Don’t use oil stoves if anything else can be had. 

Don’t keep very large and small fishes together. 

Don’t always blame the dealer if your fishes die. 

Don't use coarse nets. Brussels netting is better. 

Don't keep any aquarium in a very subdued light. 

Don’t introduce plants without thoroughly cleansing. 

Don’t fail to give the fishes an occasional pinch of salts. 

Don’t fail to sterilize a net after lifting a diseased fish. 

Don’t put the fish outdoors the first warm day of Spring. 

Don’t be too sure the family cat won’t fish in the aquarium. 

Don’t entrust the feeding to another if this can be avoided. 

Don't as a beginner disregard the greater experience of others. 
Don’t sell surplus stock for a song. It had better be given away. 
Don't feed large earthworms. They should be chopped and rinsed. 
Don't slide all-glass aquaria. Scratches may cause them to break. 
Don’t forget that most fishes enjoy an occasional variation in food. 
Don’t assume that ordinary artificial light is a substitute for daylight. 
Don’t experiment with rare tropicals to see how cool they may be kept. 


Don't suddenly change the temperature of the water, either higher or 
lower. 


Don’t allow unconsumed food to remain in the aquarium. Remove with 
dip-tube. 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 237 


Don’t use unmixed raw water from the faucet. The excess of oxygen is 
undesirable. 


Don’t fail to join an aquarium society, either as an active or a correspond- 
ing member. 


Don’t place daphnia in the aquarium without first looking carefully for 
insect enemies. 


Don’t fail to thoroughly disinfect an aquarium in which there has been a 
contagious disease. 


Don’t tear up the plants in trying to catch a fish. A little patience will 
avoid later regrets. 


Don’t be stingy, but give away a few interesting fishes to those who 
might become fanciers. 


Don’t keep goldfishes and tropicals together. They may not quarrel, but 
the appearance is not good. 


Don’t throw away dead rare fishes. Preserve in alcohol. Scientific insti- 
tutions are glad to have them. 


Don’t always use chemicals on a fish a little out of condition. A change 
of aquarium or of food may be all that is necessary. 


GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


ILLUSTRATIONS AND THEIR SOURCES 


Frontispiece. Original Photograph (colored) by the Author, Mr. L. M. Dorsey’s 


Prizewinning Concrete Aquarium. 


Ficure Pace 
1. Air Pump. Original Drawing by the Author............00.ceceeeeeceeee 10 
2. African Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer............ 11 
3. Japanese Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer........... 11 
4. Red Ramshorn Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer...... 11 
5. Freshwater Mussel. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes... 13 
6. Weatherfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler........ 13 
7. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Joseph Heilman. Original 
Photograph by’ the Author: 5 sedcacg e p-osu4-s6. 65 eects dared ee comida saree ee V7 

8. Prizewinning Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Original Photo- 
staph. bythe Athor ocace st: Kates astacncks Beane cad wantin an Gncunarrs 18 
9. Common Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 20 
10. Comet Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler...... 25 
11. Shubunkin Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 25 
12. Fantail Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing.... 25 

13. Japanese Fringetail Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Life 
Sketelt. by Franklin. Barrett: cccaceses pamonatinin ho datad mabecca ances 27 

14. Nymph Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler, after Life Sketch by 
Bran klint. Batrettr: = avetacucim acts clan tvncis tenement istdn vote eee a ale atneenl oes 28 

15. Chinese Telescope Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Life 
Sketch by the Author sony sSeaewaes sua ee mens eoeraca age oawe ened 29 

16. Chinese Scaleless Telescope (Dorsal View). Owned by Louis Burk. 
Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing...:.............. 30 

17. Calico Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Sketch by 
THEATER. 4 sal oak aya cme aie CAG id ete biden the tarchoe Ohta Sine tent tie 32 

18. Chinese Celestial Telescope. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. 
FOWLER i sie)ej shera ig wa he a pe ileaalers ee ae eee eA monn dc ceenh a aecete cds ha Ba 33 

19. Young Chinese Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Drawn by Henry W. 
Fowler from Original Photograph by the Author.................... 34 

20. Lionhead Goldfish. Owned by Louis Burk. Original Drawing from Life 
by Elenry: Wis HOw lens a © accceimmtocsec onc slot sce duncan oa od Soe aaa mean ee 35 

21. Oranda Goldfish. Owned by Franklin Barrett. Original Drawing from 
Eite-bys Henry: Wi Bowler sdseduns cove ena tesaene se tae is eso heuceeuks 36 

22. Chinese Eggfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler.............0.0ec0ccee eee 37 

23. Tailless Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett..... 38 

24, Exhibition, Horticultural Hall. Original Photograph by the Author...... 41 

25. Medal, Aquarium Society. Original Photograph by the Author.......... 42 

26. Diagram of Swallowtail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett............ 43 

27. Diagram of Veiltail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett................ 43 

28. Diagram of Swallowtail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett............ 44 

29. Diagram of Veiltail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett................ 44 

30. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.. 44 

31. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett...... 44 

32. Diagram of Swallowtail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.. 44 

33. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 44 

34. Diagram of Veiltail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.... 45 
35. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett....... 45 

36. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 45 

37. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.............. 45 

38. Diagram of Oranda. Drawn by Franklin Barrett........................ 45 

39. Diagram of Celestial. Drawn by Franklin Barrett..... Diener ten art roads 45 

40. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 46 

41. Diagram of Lionhead. Drawn by Franklin Barrett...................... 46 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 239 


Ficure PAGE 
42. Goldfishes Spawning. Original Photograph by the Author............... 51 
43. Goldfish Eggs. Original Photograph by the Author..........--.......005 52 
44. Goldfish Fry at Two Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author........ 53 
45. Goldfish at Six Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author.............. 54 
46. Goldfish at Twelve Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author.......... 55 
47. Goldfish Over One Year, Original Photograph by the Author........... 56 
48. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Fred Schaefer. Original 

Photograph by the Author............ cece eee cece ete cette tenn ees 
49. Farm Breeding Ponds. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Sketch by 

Branklin- Barrett: cascawedhocts cu seu acgranss sik Wobadaeni nian ea karen 
50. Wholesale Breeding Establishment. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after 

Sketch, by Franklin: Barretty, ¢ccsweruae-veg 04 our scusee edo tos weenie 
51. Red-Bellied Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 70 
52. Rosy-Sided Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 71 
53. Black-Nosed Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 72 
54. Stickleback. After Jordan and Evermann..............0-20ce cece eee ee 72 
55. Chaetodon. After Jordan and Evermann..............0..0.eeeeee ene 73 
56. Sunfish. After Jordan and Evermann................0..000 cee eee ne eee 74 
57. Silverfin. After Jordan and Evermann..............00. 00000 eee eeeeee 75 
58. Darter. After Jordan and Evermann.............. 000: ce eee eee e eee eee 76 
59. Killifish. After Jordan and Evermann................20 cece eee e eee 76 
60. Golden Orfe. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler......... 77 
61. Catfish. After Jordan and Evermann................0. 0c cece ee eens 77 
62. Golden Tench. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler...... 78 
63. Sucker. After Jordan and Evermann 78 
64. Roach. After Jordan and Evermann.............. 0.2 e ccc eeee eee e eee eeee 79 
65. Chub. After Jordan and Evermann............... 79 
66. Mullet. After Jordan and Evermann............. cece eee cece ce eeeeeeeee 80 

67. Eel. After Jordan and Evermann...........0..-ceceeece ccc cccc eee eenees 80 
68. Sole. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler................ 81 
69. Mirror Carp. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing....... 81 
70: Nest Builders, From Blatter” ccisas¢i2c4x howe ee ge os 488 Pele wen eee aa 103 
71. Chanchito. From Conradshohe Catalog ....... 0.00000 cc cece cc cee 104 
72. Polyacanthus dayi. From Conradshohe Catalog .........ccccc cece nee ees 104 
73. Direct External Heater. Original Drawing by the Author............... 105 
74. Indirect External Heater. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........... . 105 
75. Indirect System Through Base. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey..... 105 
76. Direct Heating Through Pan. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........ 106 
77. Direct Heating Through Metal Disc. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey.. 106 
78. Gas Thermostat. Courtesy, A. H. Thomas.............. cece eee e ee eee 108 
79. Sea Horse. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler........... 117 
80. Red Triton. Original Photograph by Dr. R. W. Shufeldt............... 121 
81. Enclosed Aqua-Terrarium. After Zernecke................ ee cece eee 122 
82. Swamp Aquarium. After Zernecke......-. 00.00. cece cece ee eee eee ene 125 
83. Daphnia. Original Drawing from Life by the Author.................. 130 
84. Mosquito Larva. Original Drawing from Life by the Author........... 130 
85. Mosquito Egg Raft, After Howard. ........ 0.0. c cece cece eee eens 130 
86. Mosquito Pupa. Original Drawing from Life by the Author........... 130 
87. Cyclops. Original Drawing by Mary Weber............... 00 cece eee 130 
88. Cypris. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester......................05- 130 
89. Bloodworm (Chironomus). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.... 134 
90. Tubifex Worms. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester............... 134 
91. Freshwater Shrimp. Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers... 135 
02. “Water Asel. After Sarseen cons siccsanabew ces beer ae me bese ey Reuse 135 
93. Rotifer (Asplanchnopus). Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. 

Mier Sin -siecttys niga sisia ane mere ele a Rinieeeyn een aah dare arer nines PE AAA ae 135 
94. Rotifer (Pterodina). Original Drawing by Frank J. Myers.............. 135 
95. Rotifer (Noteus). Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers..... 135 
96. Microscopic Animal Life (73 figures). Original Drawings from Life by 

Branke Je Myersinos caine ssa pacaisiseus Cave csg eer ihn eib eso secre sais 141 
97. Diseased Fish (White fungus). Original Drawing by Franklin Barrett.. 147 
08. Fish Louse (Argulus). Originak Drawing by Helen Winchester........ 154 
99, Water Tiger (Dytiscus larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.. 156 


240 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


Ficure PaGE 
100. Spearmouth (Hydrophilus larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 157 
101. Dragon Fly Nymph (Anar junius). Original Drawing by Helen Win- 


CHESTE I ia nate Hee wth cy ce te tcaly ee Cate eaae nied Wis em aera icarpyaie nh S , veuate r 
102. Dragon Fly Larva Catching Fish. Original Drawing by Mary Weber.... 1537 
103. Water Boatman. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester. . .-. 158 
104. Predaceous Diving Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- _ 

CHEStED irc sareinAn an aeames eeuag ues maBsemeN yercunnseeeemed gic LOO 
105. Water Scavenger Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- : 

chester Lae ME Ra whe ENE oraleninien stn ean semen eae duet emmnmntene LOD 
106. Giant Water Bug With Eggs (B. serphus). Original Drawing from Life 

Bye Erelen Wane h esters 2271 cscs nats sievon cepnemucnuat mores einen maureen vente See ateray 160 
107. Giant Water Bug (B. Americana). After Mary Wellman............... 160 
108. Water Scorpion. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber.......... 160 
109. Whirligig Beetle. After Mary Wellman.............0..... 000.0 ccc eee. 161 
110. Larva of Whirligig Beetle. After Mary Wellman....................... 161 
111. Water Strider. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester....... 161 
112. Water Mite. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester......... 161 
113. Hydra. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes................ 162 


114. Roots of Aquatic Plant. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes 164 
115. Sagittaria natans. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch 

bye Bnaniklin Barnettocns a wciace aid ssainen ieesaa ees otele rake ances 165 
116. Giant Sagittaria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester.... 
117. Sagittaria subulata. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch 


Dynan ic Balpretts asin veto sete a seaaind okra hie moh ay Sak ean 168 
118. Wild Ludwigia (L. glandulosa). Original Drawing from Life by Mary 
Wiebe iowa oh etc peren an static Aa et nn ei Nal ns aaah ae ee ee 168 
119. Vallisneria. Drawn by Henry P, Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Perea tale ina JB Ar Ete ene yaganeean-cacra tose va usen creesnton ata slate Ss odes btu es 169 
120. Giant Vallisneria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester.... 171 
121, Wild Anacharis. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch 
by sratiklin (Barrett aie cc den con i9 on dren u since yehiran iad ales 173 
122, Anacharis (cultivated). Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- 
CHESTS sate Ne tere eS Needy dale caemaccesrart stecamcre aerial segatehesiiagtecoeinceeiene ee ae 175 
123. Cabomba. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester............ 175 
124, Myriophyllum. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester...... 177 
123. Bladderwort. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester...... 177 
126. Hair Grass. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Biranilin Bagrett: Giyueoscc citer laneeneen en each hen kee 7 
127, Potamogeton. Drawing by Henry [. Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Hranklin Barnett: cewniiatlrcaceta ron Mend e ad « heyrinbnncys hee owes 
128. Nitella. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes............... 179 
129. Ludwigia (cultivated). Drawing by Henry P Schwing, from Original 
sketch; by Bran kline Barrett} 2 cc mmoanss eines ealaere eens toes 81 
130. Spatterdock (Southern). Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original 
sketch, by: Franklin Barrett. ::2cimeueengeee <eceusetanduariecae nan 182 
131. Spatterdock (Japanese). Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original 
Sketch by Hranklin Barrett, cs) <scccsussbacerseicuscosececesaicl.. 83 
132. Fontinalis, antipyretica. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber... 184 
133. Fontinalis, gracilis. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber........ 184 
134. Bacopa. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett.............. 185 
135. Starwort. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber................. 185 
136. Mare’s Tail. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester......... 187 
137. Moneywort. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett.......... 187 
138. Quillwort. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Poyser..........0000 188 
139. Heteranthera. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Branklin Bapretts ase cqemensae deacasa poate ac eogecnycmeees ccc, oc. 189 
140. Lace Plant. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett.......... 7. 
141. Water Poppy. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Dura nkline Barrett cc ce wan weeeny oimennits Oo eG noe Say Reh ~ 191 
142, Duckweed. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester. __ man elOl 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 241 


144, 
145. 


Crystalwort. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester......... 191 
Salvinia. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing............ 192 
Trianea. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing............ 192 
Frogbit. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes............... 193 
Water Fern. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by 
Branklin= Barreth qeesscncser (vetoes aioe cnn mative ieee aati 4 
Water Lettuce. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing...... 195 
Water Chestnut. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing... 195 
Water Hyacinth. Original Photograph by the Author................ 00. 
Water Lily. Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc.........c0cccceeeeevucesunes 199 
Lotus. Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc...........0. cece cceeeeueeueeueees 201 
Prizewinning Calico Comet Goldfish. Owned by Franklin Barrett. Orig- 
inal Photograph by the Author...........0.c.ccccccucecucucucueuens 202 
Prizewinning Lionhead Goldfish. Owned by Fred. G. Schaefer. Original 
Photograph by the Author... 0.0.00... ccc c ccc ese ececeecteeeeteues 202 
Aquatic Cut-Worm. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing 203 
Photographing Aquarium. Original Photograph by the Author.......... 207 
Celestial Telescope Goldfish. Original Photograph by the Author........ 208 
Cut in Angle Brass. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer.................. 214 
Wooden Form. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer...........0..0ceecuee 214 
Wooden Breeding Tank. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer............. 220 
Reinforcing Steel for Pools. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........ 221 
Form for Concrete Pool. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........... 221 
Cross Section Concrete Pool. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........ 222 
Cross Section Showing Tile Insert. Original Drawing by the Author.... 223 
Cross Section Showing Tile Insert. Original Drawing by the Author.... 223 


Cross Section Showing Finishing Coat. Original Drawing by the Author 223 


Finished Pool. Original Photograph by the Author...................... 225 
Finished Pool In Use. Original Photograph by the Author.............. 225 
Queen Lil, a Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Franklin Bar- 

rett. Original Photograph by the Author..............0000.0 000s eee 226 
Net for Handling Goldfishes. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer.......... 228 
Net for Handling Young Tropical Fishes. Original Drawing by J. A. 

Ba tr Wea ei Red eh epcepuseni sn Gc ceniecie tontatuasts ecole eal wndca © Seen ete at poakee ee, 228 
Scraper for Aquarium Glass. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer........ 228 
Aquarium Forceps. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer.................. 229 
Planting Stick. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer.......... ............ 229 
Aquarium Scissors. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer.................. 230 
Breeding Jar (Side view). Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer........... 230 
Breeding Jar (Top view). Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer........... 230 
Spawning Net. Original Drawing by J. A. Bauer...................... 231 


The gold stamp on the back of book cover 
is an illustration of the Pterophyllum scalare, 


242 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 


An Account of the Fish Epidemic in Lake Mendota. S. A. Forbes, 1890 
A Guide to the Study of Fishes. David Starr Jordan. 

A Manual for the Study of Insects. J. H. Comstock, 1895 

A Manual of Fish Culture. U. S. Com. of Fish and Fisheries, 1900 
American Fishes. G. Brown Good, 1888 

American Fish Culture. Thaddeus Norris, 1868 

Aquarium Fish, Dr. E. Bade. 

Aquatic Insects in the Adirondacks. Jas. G. Needham, 1901 

Das Siiswasser Aquarium. Dr. E. Bade. 

Das Zimmer Aquarium. Dr. E. Bade. 

Der Schleierschwanz und Telescopschleirschwanz, &c. Dr. E. Bade, 1900 
Die auslandischen Zierfische. Reuter. 

Domesticated Fish. W. L. Brind. 

Entomological News 

Feeding and Rearing Fishes, particularly Trout, &. Wm. IF. Page, 1895 
Fish Culture. William E. Meehan. 

Fish Culture on the Farm. J. J. Stranahan in Trans. Am. Fisheries Society, 1902 
Fish Hatching and Fish Catching. Seth Green and R. B. Roosevelt, 1870 
Fish Parasites, collected at Wood’s Hole in 1898. Edwin Linton, Ph.D. 
Flora of the Northern United States. Britton and Brown, 1898 
Fresh-water Aquaria. Rev. G. C. Bateman, 1902 

Fungi Affecting Fishes. Samuel Lockwood, 1890 

Gas Bubble Disease of Fishes and Its Cause. F. P. Gorham, A.M., 1900. 
Goldfish Breeds and Other Aquarium Fishes. H. T. Wolf, 1908 
Handbook of Nature Study. A. B. Comstock 

Histoire Naturelle des Dorades de la Chine. M. de Sauvigny, 1780 
Histoire Naturelle des Poissons. M. le B. Cuvier and M. A. Vallencienes, 1842 
Histoire Naturelle des Vegetaux Parasites. Charles Robin, 1853 


Inherited Modifications in the Japanese Domesticated Golden Carp, &c. John A. 
Rider, 1893 


Insects. Vernon L. Kellogg. 

Insects; Their Structure and Life. G. H. Carpenter, 1899 
Invertebrates of Massachusetts. August A. Gould, 1845 

Leitfaden fir Aquarien und Terrarienfreunde. Dr, E. Zernecke, 1897 
Life in Inland Waters. Needham and Lloyd 

Modern Fish Culture in Fresh and Salt Water. Fred’k Mather, 1900 
Notes on Fish Culture in Germany. S. Jaffé, 1895 

Notes on the Mosquitoes of the United States. L. O. Howard, 1900 
Notes on Trematode Parasites on Fishes. Edwin Linton, 1898 


Notice of the Occurrence of Protozoan Parasites on Fishes in Ohio. Edwin 
Linton, 1897 


Observation on a Fungus infesting the Fish. G. P. Clinton, 1894 


Observations on the Aquaria of the United States Fish Commission. William P. 
Seal, 1890 


*On Entomostraca. Emil Weeger, 1890 
On the Caudal and Anal Fins of Goldfishes. Dr. S. Watasa, 1887 
Parasites. T. Spencer Cobbold, 1879 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 243 


Photography of Live Fishes. R. H. Shufeldt, 1899 

*Popular History of the Aquarium. G. B. Sowerby 

Praxis der Aquarienkunde. Dr. E. Bade, 1899 

Praxis der Terrarienkunde. Dr. E. Bade. 

Reports and Bulletins of the New York Zoological Society 

Rotatoria of the United States. H. S. Jennings, 1900 

Sea Shore Life: The Invertebrates of the New York Coast. <A. G. Mayer 
Seaside Studies in Natural History. E. C. & A. Agassiz, 1865 

Some Observations concerning Fish Parasites. Edwin Linton, 1894 


The Care of Goldfishes. C. H. Townsend in Bulletins of the New York Zoological 
Society, 1907 


The Care of Home Aquaria. R. C. Osburn 

The Cultivation of Fishes in Natural and Artificial Ponds. C. H. Townsend, 1907 

The Aquarium; a Brief Exposition of its Principles and Management. Win. P. 
Seal, 1887 

The Aquarium. Mark Samuels, 1898 

*The Aquarium. J. E. Taylor, 1876 

*The Aquarium. P. H. Gosse, 1854 

The Aquarium as an aid to Biological Research. Wm. P. Seal, 1883 


The Aquarium of the U. S. Fish Commission at the World’s Columbian Exposition. 
S. A. Forbes and others, 1894 


*The Book of the Aquarium. Shirley Hibberd’ 

The Crustacea of the Fresh Waters of the U.S. Sidney Smith, 1872 
The Destruction of Trout Fry by Hydra. E. A. Beardsley, 1903 
The Family Aquarium or Aqua-vivarium. Henry D. Butler, 1858 
The Fishes of Illinois. Forbes and Robertson. 

The Fishes of New Jersey. Henry W. Fowler. 


The Fishes of North Carolina (Bulletin of the N. C. Geological Survey). 
Hugh M. Smith. 


The Fish Notebook (Nature Notebook Series). George C. Embody 

The Fishes of Pennsylvania. Tarleton H. Bean, 1893 

The Fishes of Pennsylvania. E. D. Cope, 1881 

The Fishes of North and Middle America. Jordan and Evermann, 1896 

The Fish of the Fresh and Brackish Waters in the Vicinity of New York. Eugene 
Smith, 1897 

*The Fresh and Saltwater Aquarium. Rev. J. G. Wood 

The Freshwater Aquarium. Eggling and Ehrenberg. 

The Home Aquarium and How to Care for it. Eugene Smith, 1902 

The Insect Book. Leland O. Howard, 1901 

The Sea-Beach at Ebb-Tide. Augusta F. Arnold, 1901 

The Trematodes. H. S. Pratt. American Naturalist, 1900 and 1902 

*The Vivarium. Rev. G. C. Bateman, 1893 


AQUARIUM AND FISH-CULTURE PERIODICALS 


Aquatic Life. Philadelphia. 

Blatter fir Aquarien und Terrarien-Kunde, Magdeburg 
Bulletin. Brooklyn Aquarium Society. 

Cyclopedia of American Horticulture. L. H. Bailey, 1900 
Forschungsberichte aus der Biologischen Station zu Plén 
*L’Acclimatation, Paris 

L’Aquarium, Paris 

Wochenschrift, Hamburg. 


15 


244 


GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 


CROSS [INDEX 


[llustrations are marked by asterisk (*), 


Absorption by Roots 
Aeration 
*African Flies 
*African Snails 
Agaves 
*Air Pump 
Algae 
* Alisma 
AIGGS sania oy 
Alphabetical List of 
Ammonia Treatment 


PNM ACN ATS cucsceneaen aca oan ee 

Animal Parasites ...........0. 0006 
WANIMALCUING? ecvasnn-¢ oe ee ae 
PERS OL) > sericaayiontierstuleats Bw 3 Mraica yrange aR 
Aquarium Appliances ............... 22 
Aquarium Capacity ................. 224 
Aquarium Cements ................. 218 
Aquarium Construction ............. 212 
AQUARIUM COVERS: woe 3 48 dco eae ener 14 
*Aquarium Exhibition ............... 41 
*Aquarium Filter ................ O32) 23% 
Aquarium Management ............8 6 
Aquarium Plants: 2.64.6 eas sgn a mek 3 ee 164 
*Aquarium Pump a6 si oe eaawweee naa 10 
*Aquarium Scissors ............ 0.005 230 
*Aquarium Scrapers ................. 228 
FAQs Ler rarivM waco csae adadeuetins 122 
*Aquatic Cutworm .2..6225600¢..00% 203 
Author's. PRET@CS Ges s ce geggeeeek so 4 
WINTON see eatin aes 6 arena auancage th 191, 1923 
MBA COP Men Pain oat Gessner id dn 5 Roe oak 185, 186 
Barnacled Goldfish .............04- 33 
*Belostomay 4 sig .naule abe 4. RASS 159,160 
Bibliography 02540 scat kak a 4 acne aaa 242 
*Black-banded Sunfish ............./ 78 
Black: Mungis  2geacices os oy se eee eae 148 
*“Blaeck-nosed Date as. 52e4eean 553% 71 
*Bladderwort! ssecuvicadsxeagaseeawas 177 
*Bloodworms 2 

Breeding Goldfish .................. 48 
SBRCOGIN GS SANS <5. 4,8eaidiicn ad dy Salad cele 230 
Brissels, Netting: ccseus woes AAA Goa 22 
*Buffalohead Goldfish ............... 34 
SCabomba: ceva unas na salam ae 174, 175 
Cathie micante saduris. o4. acted a aye ee red 124 
*Cali¢o: Comte acs cer aee er nydordases 202 
“CallittiGh® 2o 4444024 enews see 58 185, 186 
Cape: Pofid: Weed) ass cesdccess eed gid fale 200 
GAT, bons hareincal ater n Pacem adh Baye 82 
Pala PASTS Mora nai ute BOS AELN Geena noose nates q7 
Capacity of Aquarin ...........2.0- 224 
*Celestial Teleseopo ............0. 32, 208 
Cement for Aquaria ............000- 218 
Cératophy lim: 2544 ps euwd news eggas 176 


*Ceratopteris thalictroides ........... 194 
*Ohiaetodon siisnivekennaia noe deh awa weirs 73 
*Chanchito: sissies sus scan ears 6 eles 104 
Changing: “Water 4.c0do.% 53 a66 eae ar 7 
Chemical Depletion of Water ........ 10 
*Chinese Scaleless Telescope.17, 30, 31, 226 
*Chinese Telescope ...........0000008 29 
FORGE cake eae eased eS 79 
A CHUDSUCK ER «a. praisugunasia de Sarees ee eencata 80 
Colors in Goldfish ........0.... 00008 21 
*Comet Goldfish ...........-....4. 24, 202 
*Concrete Aquarium .......... Frontispiece 
Conerete Aquaria .............00008 218 
*Conecrete Worms. wis.cc eh 252 0084 68a ae 221 
*Concrete. Pool sisnciscsaeae cs wt a hoe deta 225 
Constipation: sunisenene ss cakes 6s ees 149 
Construction of Aquarin ...... 211 
Construction of Tanks and Pools 220 
ConsuMptION <easw ees ves 64a as Ni cue 150 
*Coral. Snails «seecies bonchewneaaa 11, 12 
* COTIXIDGO! ore gnancs ee oboe See brake 158 
*Croaking Gourami ................. 103 
SOPYStalWOLe: cio acumen awick doves ae 191, 192 
MOVGIODS. © ee F.so5. trssndyee eee Aude one est APO 132 
Cyperus: Papyrus! acs ssicasee cee eee 200 
MGVDTISH, sttsh a 4t-oanageeiwvenpercny ae ata 133 
DapHMitine 4.24.caae fh cemouncn ated ou eee le 130 
AD ARGON pis: Skau.d cin wnesn iy oat cone be, eustnds 15 
Dip Duper i.3.6.0.028 S44 ese esaedeaw wens 229 
Diseases of Aquarium Fishes ........ 144 
Diseased Marine Fishes ............ 118 
Diseases of Tropical Fishes ......... 154 
DOM ita. Asics Barc eilnecaiighlinn s wae edn eee 235 
“Dragon Ply Warva aout saves ee dgaas 157 
DPOpsy. im cveaes Sees 55s BOGS G8 oa a nto 150 
*Duckweed) acvexteawieg ies dou ce wa 191, 192 
PDD VUUISCUSH vec Wye gt we nye cde whe ee cee 156 
Bell ics arene winisds eRRiaid whe Wee an as AS 80 
* Well“ Grass: o6-as:4-. sapewnss ot Kanda see 169, 170 
*Egefish (Goldfish) .............0005 87 
*BHichhornia Crassipes ............... 197 
*Migetrie Light BWE 2004064004. 0¢se00 159 
PIOLO QE Bh ase: 'e saga vache iowa aah ERR ioe 172, 175 
MONCH VATAG aye 25.4 at tat esi acy ach anew aes 136 
Enemies of Aquatic Plants .......... 203 
Enemies. of Fishes cai. .0500406004 0 156 
*Eriocaulon septangulare ............ 178 
Exotic: Wishes: 2c awe sy pan edews 84-92 
Eye Inflammation, .ccacsesga¢heueda a 152 
*Fantail ‘Goldfish ae. ¢4ccasioen a neeeaas 26 
MONWOLE: 58 tee Bineh ers bo8 dae 174, 175 
“Farm Breeding Ponds .............. 63 
VEE d I Ie one etncsctiod ich scene saison siete qT 


TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 245 
Peeding Fey wii ckesag sh geass coawe 57, 58 *Japaneso Snail .............00000 ee 11 
SMILGR” seuctia Saree fou sateseaciain sae 232, 2383 *Japanese Spatterdock .............. 183 
Fin Congestion ........... 00. ..0005 146 
*Finishing Concrete Pools ........... 223 sai 
*Fishfoods (living) ................. Ka OE ret Re aati tet aoe a0 
Fishfoods (prepared) .............. 128 
Pish Globes> sacec.idiecs Pacadadad ea ssa 15 *Haee Vint capac cvecencees x eneay se 190 
MINSH DCG. tices was won pode eee Be Ae OES 153 Larger Enemies (of fish) ............ 162 
“Fish, Net ..sciiws ca eyes.d geeeaw be es 228 Leaks in Aquaria .... 0... ee eee 15 
PluKes) oc chitacy se tavew eas aedhos se pie 154 LeOChas. ace Wer aes ooh oe eS 153 
*Pontinalis antipyretica ......... 183, 184 Shemima; “Min OF. vos ecaidasioe aes eanee 192, 198 
*Fontinalis gracilis ............. 183, 184 Lettered Goldfish 2.022... :00e0e008% 37 
RPUTRCUS Vos tees baba ceka cece sea 229 DREN pea oa ea Oa waka Ras oe 8 
Horty Dom tS) weccee-8 64 o¥ eae Rae atk 236 *Limnocharis humboldti ............ 191 
*Freshwater Shrimp ................. 185 ‘Lionhead Goldfish ............... 34, 202 
*Pringetail Goldfish ................. 27 Hive Beater® .0cces sek cx wwe sae 97 
# Prog bit: ssc cece Sele eae eee 193 *Livebearing Jars ................4. 230 
Gizard'is® Tail jedwali 3 ua cyanea mee 200 
*MOaehs weaca gs cavanme wey sea ceeaee a yee 
Gallon Capacity Si ah-S B Hresuee eine Mie aE pos dre PEG Stine red ee irene 200, Pe 
ee. eae ies RG viGr anes Tenens ma FUudwigit cscks sae ds ee ane ars 180, 181 
r Ae Chea ee *Ludwigia (wild) .............0000e 168 
Gill Congestion ...............000. 151 
*Golden Orfe or Ide ............... 17 
*Golden Tench ............ 0.000000 78  “*Mare’s Tail .................., 186, 187 
Goldfish ......... BEATA SoS RSet oe a 20 Marine Aquaria ........... 0.0. .000- 110 
*Goldfish at 2 Weeks ............... 53 Marsh Marigold .....-....-....... 200 
*Goldfish at 6 Weeks ............... 54 *Medal of Aquarium Society ......... 42 
*Goldfish at 3 Months .............. 55 “Meteor Goldfish d 
*Goldfish Over One Year ............ 56 “Moneywort ..................44 
Goldfish, Age of ...........0- 00000 21 “Mosquito Larva 
Goldfish, Age in Fancy Breeds ...... 22 “Mosquito Eggs 
Goldfish, Early Variations .......... 23 Microscope Books ........-.....5.. 142 
*Goldfish, Competitions .............. 40 Microscope in Aquarium Work ...... 140 
*Goldfish, Eggs ...........0.0-000 005 52 *Mites «0.00... eee 161 
Goldfish in Running Water .......... 67 “Moor Goldfish ................... 18, 34 
*Goldfish, Spawning ................ 51 _blonthbreedens Ae SoSH aR dans ah dente Roshieanedesde aos 97 
Green Tench .............0-00 eee 18 yMtallee SERS Rin Bante Hitisceninn a arias, 80 
*G@yrinldaG: capes ugaund blesdewd peo o4 > eas 161 MuUlpsel aya 2c oe ance cers ae Gent Gteaen es 13 
*Myriophyllum ...............004 176, 177 
*Hair Grass: ¢-445-.2cGne he veeeese dd 178 
*Hardshell Daphnia ................. 133 Native: (Bishés: 2ics.655 8555. dea ouuewas 70 
Heat: Controle nee Sines eee anaes 107 *Ne@luMmbINMS: s.65 occ ab acd 200, 201 
Heating Tropical Aquaria ........... tog. “Nepidae. .2seih.iasecevode chimeras os 160 
*Herb Twopence ...........++05. 186, 187 Nest Builders ..................0., 95 
*Herpestis,. sveciensimacda eer aan AAG 8 185, 186 Nets os. esse eect, 228 
*Heteranthera, ...scecuee anced 189, 190 “Nitella gracilis ................. 179, 180 
*Hippocampus ..........--..+005 116, 117 *Nuphar sagittaefolia ............... 182 
*Hippuris ....... 0... s eee eee eee 186,187 “Nymph Goldfish ................... 28 
Houseleek <cccse2enavde aneercernsae 124 
*Hydra ..--- 0 eee tere eee LOW 1G2. Odonata Havas eayveid uae iodunyweasad 157 
®Hydrachaad .04 5 ce eee ye sees a wees 161 Oranda Goldfish ...........0...004... 36 
*Hydrocampa ........ eee eee eee eee 203 *Ouviranda fenestralis .............. 190 
*Hydrocharis ao. vce ces cow es ans 193 
ie Po eine rie a ete 157 ee *Paper Shelled Snail .............0.. 11 
" Re : Porvot’s Peater as 46545 bocce s ace 176 
*Photographing Aquarium ............ 207 
Ichthyopthirius .......-..-. eevee eee 153 Photographing Fishes .............. 206 
KInfusoria <i 34. cence doors steal: LBB Piekerel:“ Weed» acpi Gemaudedotew ee 200 
Infusoria Culture ............ eee eee 57 *Pistia stratrotes .............0000. 195 
Insect Enemies .......---+ esses eeee 156 Planting: weniass toe eae mae eas 14, 164 
ATSOGEEB- 6 sige verde snd Soairainie Cie Sok areee meno 188 *Planting “SHicks: 244444045 20e0 484 Anas 229 
Tteh: g2ee ag mio tac ak eh ece ad mace ta 149 Plant: Lite: execs win ton wenn panna day ey 8 


246 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND 
Plants assy cia wah haedex tee ene ee es 164 Tadpoles: sscscacstveneeedangeces oe 12 
Point System of Judging ........... 46 *Tailless Goldfish ..............00005 38 
*Polyacanthus dayi .........0e00ee% 104 Tailrot ...... SRW ere S RESO ESS 150 
Pond Plants sissies gongs ascend eo eos a 200 HT ONCH 4 ccacaiiscasun seo aes OBS 78 
PON AWECG my aris ga cit Bicrn Bleecdipaauanae 179 Worrania th whi yo tsaiedwa eae ee kins 120 
*Patamogeton .......... 0.00 cece eee 179 Testing Aquaria <..isicceeecenevers 15 
*Predaceous Beetles ................ 158 MPHePMOStat: e4 Vaiss eae new 108 
Propagation of Goldfish ............. 48 *Tiles in Concrete Pools ..........-.. 223 
*TONES ...2.0008 aia Sahn Sasials fay Bee ntone: Wee 229 
£Qn; STPAPA Natans vsvevsgadacwwenas eae 195 
TUSIONE od en geen e tS Museen saies a STPIANCR sciveekie. dg disc caus Rawme oe RSS 193 
Tropical Aquaria ..........-00eeee 102 
Rainbow Darter ..........0..e00005 76 Tropieal Fishes ..2....<s0neee0 nae 84-92 
*Red-bellied Dace ............-.0-55 70 *Tuberosa richardsoni ........... 198, 200 
*Red Snail ....... 0... eee eee eee 11,12 *Pubifex Worms ................00, 134 
*Red Triton ........- 0.05 cece ee ees 121 Tumbler Goldfish .................. 36 
*Reinforced Concrete ............ 220, 221 Turk’s Island Salt ............. 114, 144 
Riccia. fluitans. 24.655 .250s0e eee 191, 192 
onnie tase ie aaa acc eee eae a e Umbrella Plant: gos ns oa ven ope peels 200 
aN Tea ice Se NRCS us 135 Utricularia. «sss ees chants 445 sacle 177 
Heme BA WW the Vici seiereestark ge Sean ee 81 -svaitisneria. .vcndo ops ee uns ss 169, 170 
*Vallisneria (Giant) ............ 171, 172 
Salyinia. .2etaws weee neg suciawes 192, 193 Variegated Sweet Flag ............. 200 
Sagittaria Giant ............... 167, 170 Viviparous Fishes ................. 97 
Sagittaria montevidiensis ........... 200 
Sagittaria natans .............. 165, 166 *Wandering Jew ................ 186, 187 
Sagittaria pusilla .............. 168, 170 *Washington Grass .............. 174, 175 
Sagittaria subulata ............. 168, 170 Water Arum xsscasuncuar ake gece wc 200 
Sagittaria japonica .............005 200. “Water Asel osu oveima go se ye sae ended 135 
Salt Treatment 2.0.02 500.s0.s05004% 144 *Water Boatman .................... 158 
*Scaleless Telescope Gouldfish.17, 30, 31, 226 *Water Chestnut .................4. 195 
PS GAVEN ECTS: asin etree: ke gre bis 4 a8 al wN 11 WIRTOE! ITIP! jaro sacs aitscniolana ah sha aerials a1 58 
*Scavenger Beetles ..............005 159 PW id ore AMEE oo hoses soscain el ar dros ENO 194 
*Schlammbeisser ............0-02000% 13 *Water Hyacinth ................ 196, 197 
*Sea Horsés 2 .6escess esac divneeecse 116 *Water. Lettuce ss ncieisaenudasedadan 195 
*Seasoning Concrete Pools ........... 994 “Water. Dilly. cise icca cami esies cave nina ss 198 
Sex in Goldfish ........-....-..00005 48 Water Lily Culture ............... 199 
+ Shinet 55.5 eeeniugaen yx sercs bo a OSE 719 Water Lily (Miniature) ............ 200 
*Shrimp (Freshwater) ............5. 185 Water Lily (Tender Day Blooming)... 200 
*Shubunkin Goldfish ................ 26 Water Lily (Tender Night Blooming). 200 
Sick Mishes: «ctcnwaaomae ewes oa Dees 9 Water Lily (Winter Blooming)...... 200 
Sick Fishes (special attention)...... 145 Water Milfoil) s.caccine ice edie 176, 177 
EGU VerAN, 53s SO eicieeww sae weeks ees 75 *Wate® Poppy -:6 ocsununeaencaeeeaad 191 
ESIC sa au sleadienin gd ois alk dace wees 63 *Water Scorpion .veccscavnearedtuss 160 
Soldering Aquarium Frames ......... 216 Water Snowflake ...............4.. 200 
Soldier-fish [6 *Water Strider. wacucasccnaiw cncas ad 161 
PSOlal Ss Facade wae yee eee wes ese 81 * Water: Tse secur saan wely ag woe g 156 
*Spatterdock (Southern) ............. 182 *Weatherfish cc ecenwciw st apne maga aloes 13 
*Spatterdock (Japanese) ............. 183 *Whirligig Beetld ..aceevwscsustacsae 161 
*Spawning Net: occu cces eeu ewes 231 SWhite Fungus «<is.c6edscdeseeeee0 147 
*Spawning Ring ...........0.00 ee aun 50 White “WoOPMS: .cicncns een Hee was tes 136 
HSpeaRMoUth, aacecoiiee avait eee wae 157 *Wholesale Breeding ...............- 62 
*Specially Equipped Establishment... .. 66 *Wild Anmacharis ...............000. 172 
Staining Goldfish Scales ............ 37 *Wild; Dmdwigia: sciucowaveeececca vans 168 
FOLAP WORE: 6.6 eae tis esis) Scerapars A gna a aeans 185, 186 Winter Storage (Goldfish) .......... 64 
ESUCKEP sa4n2 one eae ele es Gas a ls See 78 Wintering Goldfish ................. 59 
*Gunfish: ssss255¢ehon eeu euedasee ents 14 Wintering Water Lillies ............ 199 
*Swamp Aquarium ................-. 125 *Wooden Tanks (Construction) ...... 219 
Swimming Bladder Trouble ......... 151 * World's Pair Fish) sues os say eces is 27 


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